DiSEqC motor setup

[statalite]

If you have a secure concret post, then all you have to do is put spacers, in the brackets, or longer bolts, with adjudtable nuts, one each side, of the bracket, so you can adjust them, to compensate for any minor pole alignment issue.

I'm lost, I will photograph tomorrow to and see if we can work out.

 

[statalite]

If you have a secure concrete post, then all you have to do is put spacers, in the brackets, or longer bolts, with adjudtable nuts, one each side, of the bracket, so you can adjust them, to compensate for any minor pole alignment issue.

I have discovered the the bottom clamps need significant adjustment spacing from the concrete post in order to achieve 90 degrees east west. The clamps grip the pole east west orientation. I added another nut on each bolt on the lower set of clamps but as one clamp separated from the post it won't stay in position as there's play in the bolts from the other side.
Can you describe what you mean by spacers, do you have a picture?

 

[Mickha]

Spacers are just washers, which allow you to adjust the clamps differently, on each separate bolt, providing the bolts are long enough, and with patience, you should get your pole plumb.
You can use metal washers, or even rubber spacers.

Can you please post pictures, of your dish/motor setup? Even an old phone, like mine, can take good pictures, that you can upload, to the forum.

 

[statalite]

Spacers are just washers, which allow you to adjust the clamps differently, on each separate bolt, providing the bolts are long enough, and with patience, you should get your pole plumb.
You can use metal washers, or even rubber spacers.

Can you please post pictures, of your dish/motor setup? Even an old phone, like mine, can take good pictures, that you can upload, to the forum.

Please see the attached in terms of the pole and clamps. I can post again with the inclinometer, but the gap at the bottom bracket from the post needs to be about double.

 

[Mickha]

Now I can see where your problem lies, and you have several options.

Personally I would get 2 more pole clamps, for the opposite side of the pole, and then add spacers, and bolts, to adjust the pole, or you could just put packing, between the pole, and the concrete post:

 

[sonnetpete]

Like other members have advised, you need a shim between the post and the pole for the motor/dish assembly. Perhaps a sectioned piece of pipe, slightly larger diameter than pole, which you could slip in to make the bottom of the pole vertical. There really is no half measure when setting up a motorised system, and getting the pole plumb makes your job of aligning the dish correctly much easier.

 

[statalite]

Thanks for all the comments.
I have had some success with adding longer coach bolts, nuts, and an extra sledge on both. I find these kind of give me fine adjustment potential. I have a block of wood I could use as a shim but I don't think this would work over the nut and sledge additions.

This task seems insanely difficult, although I'm well aware this isn't the usual setup.
I find that when I move the inclinometer it will give different readings at different positions of the same axis if the pole, move it and inch or two and it changes. If it's down to imperfections in the pole I don't know or if this is normal. I also have about a third of the pole clamped and the other two thirds above the concrete post.

Are the inclinometer readings an indication of a bad pole? I hope not.
Also i'm presuming the weight of the motor and dish will change the pole alignment after adding?

 

[gdf68]

Not sure if I can offer much advice, is the fence post totally secured and I assume it was fully level to begin with before you mounted, the brackets and pole.

 

[statalite]

Not sure if I can offer much advice, is the fence post totally secured and I assume it was fully level to begin with before you mounted, the brackets and pole.

I would say secured. I doubt it was put in fully level but my brackets should compensate for that.

The shape of said post is like an inverted H shape, but the brackets should compensate.

 

[Trust]

Only the part of the pole where you put the diseqc motor needs to be plumb.

 

[statalite]

Is advised to put the motor and dish on after making the pole plumb, right?
After fine adjustment, is the idea to get the nuts so tight that when the motor and dish are put on that the pole remains plumb? or make the fine adjustments and tighten up with the motor and dish on?

 

[Channel Hopper]

Is advised to put the motor and dish on after making the pole plumb, right?
After fine adjustment, is the idea to get the nuts so tight that when the motor and dish are put on that the pole remains plumb? or make the fine adjustments and tighten up with the motor and dish on?

The pole should not move after a motor and dish are added, since when the reflector moves the mass will alter the positioning off the arc.

 

[gdf68]

Is advised to put the motor and dish on after making the pole plumb, right?
After fine adjustment, is the idea to get the nuts so tight that when the motor and dish are put on that the pole remains plumb? or make the fine adjustments and tighten up with the motor and dish on?

No matter what your using to install your pole , your way , t&k brackets the pole has to be solid if it moves when you add you dish/motor then it defeats the whole process. Think your getting slightly confused.
A) pole plumb 90° tight should not move.
motor at zero degrees attach your dish to the motor centred
C) fix motor/Dish to pole , loosely but tight enough that it doesn't moved down the pole, once your send the motor to your ref sat (0.8w) for me. You can then move the system west/east to peak your signal