Are polar mount setup instructions included together with actuator?

***BombedOne*** · 05-01-2009

was googling for local websites, to find similar setup as mine, found this pic

pedro2000uk · 05-01-2009

very nice .....dish.... bombedone... and the parabola's not bad either

and lets have no double entendres about ...the focal point.

**Channel Hopper** · 05-01-2009

I can't believe she is 2.4m tall.

(Nice curvature though)

She may have the dish behind her, but I've got the horn

**Channel Hopper** · 05-01-2009

Originally Posted by pedro2000uk

I am surprised this forum doesn't have a 'sticky' thread tutorial on polar mount/ actuator setups . Perhaps we should do one.

It does, but you do have to search a bit for it

Setup the Dish

Post 10 should have more or less everything you need, and if not, come back here.

***BombedOne*** · 05-01-2009

This is Miss Georgia 2002 (or 2003?), she's 180cm in height.

***BombedOne*** · 05-01-2009

Yes, post #10 seems to be enough. Btw, I can set-up live video broadcast from my roof, when I'll be installing actuator, so everyone can watch and give suggestions online, if something goes wrong. Finding maximum elevation angle is also quite easy, since my longitude is 44.49, I can use Intelsat 12 at 45E as centering aid.

Today I also found a company, which can do installation for me. But their price is too high - $200 just for dish alignment, not including metalworks for straightening the pole!

**Channel Hopper** · 05-01-2009

Good luck, is it as cold there as it is here ? (-5 degrees at the moment )

***BombedOne*** · 06-01-2009

yes, it's quite cold (for us). Everyone talk about global warming, but here we can clearly see in latest years, we're getting local cooling

weather becomes more damp, with more rain and snow, winter becomes colder, summer becomes cooler...

and regarding setup instructions, they are to be used in case, when pole is perfectly vertical. But what, if it's not? how I can compensate that?

**Channel Hopper** · 06-01-2009

Originally Posted by BombedOne

yes, it's quite cold (for us). Everyone talk about global warming, but here we can clearly see in latest years, we're getting local cooling weather becomes more damp, with more rain and snow, winter becomes colder, summer becomes cooler...

and regarding setup instructions, they are to be used in case, when pole is perfectly vertical. But what, if it's not? how I can compensate that?

Small additional adjustments in elevation, North-south and declination are all you need to make up for a non vertical pole.

pedro2000uk · 06-01-2009

You can use an inclinometer/clinometer on the polar angle and ignore the markings....
but..
The lean must be 100% north<>south though ... really not easy that. The only way I could see doing that, that accurately is to line the dish up on 45e- ... set the polar mount to 0.5w and move the whole polar mount around on the pole and the dish elevation up/down without touching the elevation or the 0.5w azi' setting on the polar mount and then see if the polar mount is then 100% in line with the 'lean' .. otherwise I would refab it straight... (or use packing under the bolts to level it).

***BombedOne*** · 06-01-2009

Unfortunately, there's no way to install packing under pole, since roof surface cover is quite thick but foamy, so unless pole deadly mounted to it, it will shake.

I've developed scheme of balancing plate, which will avoid me welding works for the pole. Now I'm drawing it, will post a picture later.

***BombedOne*** · 06-01-2009

here it is, may be obscure for non techie people...

pedro2000uk · 06-01-2009

have a look at the kingpost BombedOne...

_http://www.ascsignal.com/images/content/vsat_products/pdfs/King%20Post%20Mounts%20.pdf

**LAURO2008** · 06-01-2009

Sorry for the quick Off Topic

It is so fantastic this thread :-)

Congratulations !!!

***BombedOne*** · 06-01-2009

a volte riesco a stupire persino io stesso

KingPost may be good, but I can't do such technique by myself - it will require me to bring down the pole from the roof, or use welder directly on the roof, which is prohibited.

pedro2000uk · 06-01-2009

sorry BombedOne... we do make mounts etc..

***BombedOne*** · 06-01-2009

You work at that company?

pedro2000uk · 06-01-2009

no, but we can make big dish mounts etc. so I know the problems.

***BombedOne*** · 06-01-2009

So, you think my design may be weak?

**LAURO2008** · 06-01-2009

Originally Posted by BombedOne

a volte riesco a stupire persino io stesso

KingPost may be good, but I can't do such technique by myself - it will require me to bring down the pole from the roof, or use welder directly on the roof, which is prohibited.

hey, your Italian is pretty good! come mai?

pedro2000uk · 06-01-2009

Originally Posted by BombedOne

So, you think my design may be weak?

I am sure you make it strong for the job BombedOne- it‘s difficult to see from photos…. Thick wall 75mm-100/3 -4“ pipe, good channel iron, good welds etc..
....what size bolts/ threaded bar and how many are bolting it down?

If we do a 2.4m and it is a solid dish it is 150mm / 6 inch pipe schedule 40 for shorter pole and schedule 80 for longer pole .. but that is a lighter C BAND wire mesh dish and the polar mount is designed for what looks like about 75mm -100mm/3-4 inch pipe and the pole isn't too long. I don’t know about KU band mesh on that roof though- never used it.

***BombedOne*** · 06-01-2009

Polar mount says that it's designed for 75mm pole, so I had no other choice. Pole length is 1.5m, I'm planning to cut it somewhere at 0.5m height from base, and install balancing plates there.

Regarding threaded bars, I don't know which system this is, but we call them "M8" thread, and use "13" hex key for screwing. Currently there are 4 such bars, but holes are drill for more 4 units to be installed.

After all adjustments will be finished, I'm planning to put some rebar inside that pole, and pour in liquid concrete.

***BombedOne*** · 06-01-2009

I've did another drawing, this time 3D, to more simplify understanding of my approach (actual proportions of components aren't preserved on this picture, to allow more simple understanding).

1. First, I'll cut off my pole (yellow on pic) , using grinding machine (most hard part)
2. I'll take pieces (green on pic) of steel sheet sized 15X15cm (what thickness will be optimal? 5mm will be enough or not?)
3. Will weld L shaped steel stripes (pink on pic) to it, to match pole outer diameter (there will be 8 such stripes, not 4 as on pic)
4. These L shaped stripes and pole will be drilled, and apropriate length bolts put trough it, to nicely secure whole construction.
5. I'll repeat such operation for both parts of the pole
6. Next, I'll drill 4 corner holes in both plates, and fit bolts, to have vertical adjustment

what do you think?

pedro2000uk · 06-01-2009

Originally Posted by BombedOne

....

Regarding threaded bars, I don't know which system this is, but we call them "M8" thread, and use "13" hex key for screwing. Currently there are 4 such bars, but holes are drill for more 4 units to be installed.

4 x 8mm.. I would increase that before you fit the KU mesh... I would get to sleep with 4 x c. 16- 20mm threaded bar... & not same as 8 x m8.

Originally Posted by BombedOne

....
After all adjustments will be finished, I'm planning to put some rebar inside that pole, and pour in liquid concrete.

good idea... 75mm can be solid.. depends on wall thickness and steel type but 75mm on solid 2.4 ku and you would have to do something like that too.

would like to see the ku mesh and what that does to the wind loading... obviously the dish will not get that much wind loading with that c band mesh now..

pedro2000uk · 06-01-2009

Originally Posted by BombedOne

I've did another drawing, this time 3D, to more simplify understanding of my approach (actual proportions of components aren't preserved on this picture, to allow more simple understanding).

1. First, I'll cut off my pole (yellow on pic) , using grinding machine (most hard part)
2. I'll take pieces (green on pic) of steel sheet sized 15X15cm (what thickness will be optimal? 5mm will be enough or not?)
3. Will weld L shaped steel stripes (pink on pic) to it, to match pole outer diameter (there will be 8 such stripes, not 4 as on pic)
4. These L shaped stripes and pole will be drilled, and apropriate length bolts put trough it, to nicely secure whole construction.
5. I'll repeat such operation for both parts of the pole
6. Next, I'll drill 4 corner holes in both plates, and fit bolts, to have vertical adjustment

what do you think?

all sounds good.. but picture not there.. edit... it's there now...

cutting wheels on hand grinders are very good now for cutting quite big steel... (bit dangerous when they shatter though) .. we used to have to cut more with burning torch on site.

edit...

I see drawing now..

have a look at pipe flanges... you can cut and weld 2 on... use spacers to adjust (washers) ... . you could even add bolted bracing later using the flange holes if you needed extra bracing.

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