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Old 10-11-2006   #26
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Check here 26 inch lcd hd ready hdmi etc, also 26 inch lcd = 28 inch crt

http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Produc...B%2B%2B%2B.htm

Also 32inch lnch lcd, 32 ich lcd = 34 inch crt

http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Produc...B%2B%2B%2B.htm
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Old 10-11-2006   #27
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My System: 1.2M prime focus with SA58 H-H receiver-New Wave 9000 BP MK II

well the RF modulator project has gone well.

I ended up removing a second modulator from and old matsui RD 600 analogue receiver as I could not get the first one from a grundig GDS200/1 to work. The only difference between them is the number of connections they have, the grundig has 8 and the matsui has 5.

The connections on the modulator from the matsui are marked up as follows-

1. V - Video
2. A - Audio
3. MB - 0-+5V switching for modulator. If the receiver was in standby I found this to be at 0V. when the receiver was switched out of stand by it went to 5V.
4. NC - this was not used in the receiver. Ive not used it.
5. BB - +5V antena loop-through/pass-through.

How I built it
The power supply was going to be built to the diagram on this website but I made a few changes to it. I did not fit an LED and I used a slightly different capacitor because I could not find one that was of the same value shown in the diagram.

3 & 5 on the modulator are connected to a +5V supply, the shassi go's to ground.
The video & audio go to 1 & 2.

Now that I've got it working I plan to put it into a small terminal box & stick the componets onto a circuit board just to tidy it up. This picture shows you what it is like at the moment.
RFModulator.jpg
Good luck if you try it & if you need some advise let me know I might be able to help.
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Old 10-11-2006   #28
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Originally Posted by satscaner View Post
well the RF modulator project has gone well.

I ended up removing a second modulator from and old matsui RD 600 analogue receiver as I could not get the first one from a grundig GDS200/1 to work. The only difference between them is the number of connections they have, the grundig has 8 and the matsui has 5.

The connections on the modulator from the matsui are marked up as follows-

1. V - Video
2. A - Audio
3. MB - 0-+5V switching for modulator. If the receiver was in standby I found this to be at 0V. when the receiver was switched out of stand by it went to 5V.
4. NC - this was not used in the receiver. Ive not used it.
5. BB - +5V antena loop-through/pass-through.

How I built it
The power supply was going to be built to the diagram on this website but I made a few changes to it. I did not fit an LED and I used a slightly different capacitor because I could not find one that was of the same value shown in the diagram.

3 & 5 on the modulator are connected to a +5V supply, the shassi go's to ground.
The video & audio go to 1 & 2.

Now that I've got it working I plan to put it into a small terminal box & stick the componets onto a circuit board just to tidy it up. This picture shows you what it is like at the moment.

Good luck if you try it & if you need some advise let me know I might be able to help.
You make it look soooo easy to make!!!

Just out of curiosity, is it not a Stereo modulator then?

I think your car looks funny too......
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Old 10-11-2006   #29
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the white phono is my video output and the red is my audio. the down side is that your sound will be in mono not stereo
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Old 10-11-2006   #30
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Originally Posted by satscaner View Post
the white phono is my video output and the red is my audio. the down side is that your sound will be in mono not stereo
What if I used the modulator from my dead Pace MSS300? Would that be Stereo?

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Old 10-11-2006   #31
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unfortanatly stereo is not an option with this method as you only have one audio input.
your tv my split the sound into two channels but it will still be mono as the original source of sound comes from only one channel ( the left or right audio output on the back of the DVD player)

I Dont know if the pace modulator accepts a stereo input, you would need to remove it from the receiver and have a look at the connections, I'm guesing it only has one channel.
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Old 10-11-2006   #32
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The Sleepy Hollow pollracle has spoken!

Originally Posted by satscaner View Post
unfortanatly stereo is not an option with this method as you only have one audio input.
your tv my split the sound into two channels but it will still be mono as the original source of sound comes from only one channel ( the left or right audio output on the back of the DVD player)

I Dont know if the pace modulator accepts a stereo input, you would need to remove it from the receiver and have a look at the connections, I'm guesing it only has one channel.
Ah, oh well, was only asking, I'll stick with my scart switch for now...

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Old 11-11-2006   #33
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My System: 28e, 19e, 13e, 30w

For stereo sound you'd also need a NICAM encoder, and I don't believe they're easy to get hold of/make/buy! Could always ask your local cable TV company (ah local, those were the days!)
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Old 11-11-2006   #34
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Originally Posted by satscaner View Post
well the RF modulator project has gone well.
Hehe, nice. I like people who just get on with it.

Whilst a lot of new kit comes with MONO OUT on LEFT (great for your project) - you could consider making yourself a simple stereo>mono affair from three resistors Then you can hook your RF MOD to any kit.

By now, maybe you are already thinking "if I have RF, then I could hook this up to the house antenna and pipe it everywhere" LOL


## DEVICE L OUT o)----------[R1]-----------\ ############################
################################# \
################################# X-------------------[R3]------------- > GND
################################# /
## DEVICE R OUT o)----------[R2]-----------/ ############################


R1, R2, R3 = 10K

Basically, introduce a 10K resistor on both the LEFT and RIGHT signal (twist [edit: solder] the free ends of R1 + R2 together) - then twist [edit: solder] R3 to that junction. X is the tap point for audio to the RF MODULATOR (the other end of R3 goes to GROUND (L+R shield).

The ##### everywhere are there only because the forum dont like spaces.

.

Have Fun, Moo.

Last edited by BarMoo; 11-11-2006 at 09:37 PM. Reason: typos
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Old 11-11-2006   #35
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Originally Posted by BarMoo View Post
By now, maybe are you already thinking "if I have RF, then I could hook this up to the house antenna and pipe it everywhere" LOL
Hmm Interesting, I like your style
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Old 11-11-2006   #36
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I'm pretty sure L&R are buffered before going to the output of any equipment you are taking the audio from, in which case just connect L&R together.

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Old 11-11-2006   #37
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Originally Posted by Llew View Post
just connect L&R together.

Llew
Cheapskate, LOL.

Llew he's just build a great whotnot from spares and your happy for him to twist cables together. Shame on you. [read: mind that's what I normally do - but i'm a lazy ass ]

Better go back to my post and say SOLDER the connections, LOL.

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Last edited by BarMoo; 11-11-2006 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 11-11-2006   #38
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LOL, just saving satscaner 30p

You can easily verify that you're maintaining stereo in the unit you're taking the output from (or other equipment that may be connected to it) by connecting the L&R leads together. It'll prove that it doesn't cause any loss of stereo.

*satscaner -

A nice little job there m8, keep the capacitors close to the regulator when you put them on a board, or you might get some instability. And don't forget the other small value capacitor, this will stop HF interference.

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Old 12-11-2006   #39
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Im having difficulty getting hold of the low value capacitor's maplins dont have them and RS seem to have stopped stocking them.

I could try CPC or farnell but then I'd need an account with them.

Last edited by satscaner; 12-11-2006 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 12-11-2006   #40
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Originally Posted by satscaner View Post
Im having difficulty getting hold of the low value capacitor's maplins dont have them and RS seem to have stopped stocking them.
There should be a few in the back of the TV, near the (now redundant) SCART socket.

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness"
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Old 12-11-2006   #41
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The value isn't critical if you can't find an exact match (usually marked in a 3-digit code) -

104 = 100nf
103 = 10nf if you can't find the former.



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Last edited by Llew; 12-11-2006 at 02:03 PM.
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Old 15-11-2006   #42
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My System: 1.2M prime focus with SA58 H-H receiver-New Wave 9000 BP MK II

Here's the latest pic's of my RF modulator project.
I've got an enclosure to put it into, its in the process of being drilled out and I will finish it 2morow.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg RF1.JPG (157.0 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg RF2.JPG (155.2 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg RF3.JPG (159.2 KB, 9 views)
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Old 15-11-2006   #43
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Fighting the evil 3 Dragons under the Don Quixote banner,Sir Llew persevered where others failed

That's a neat layout satscaner

Just a little point - that looks like another electrolytic in there - never mind, doesn't matter if it's working OK, but it really needs a ceramic one (~100nf, as mentioned earlier.)

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Old 15-11-2006   #44
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My System: 1.2M prime focus with SA58 H-H receiver-New Wave 9000 BP MK II

Whats the differance between the 2 types and there uses? is it stability
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Old 16-11-2006   #45
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Fighting the evil 3 Dragons under the Don Quixote banner,Sir Llew persevered where others failed

The capacitors filter out different frequencies depending on their value - put simply, large values (electrolytics) smooth out any ripple on the power supply, small values such as the 100nF one will cut off high frequency interference that may be picked up on the line.

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Old 16-11-2006   #46
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todays pic's
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File Type: jpg RF5.JPG (157.9 KB, 5 views)
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