DiseqC Motor internal comparison pictures

wod

also i've not tested this myself but people say the tm2200 motor is quicker than the moteck motor

any truth to this ?

satelliteman

There doesn't seem any difference between the two models at all

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LAURO2008

Hello,

Can we conclude that Clarke-Tech HH390, so far, is the most well made inside?

pedro2000uk

You could be right . certainly looks one of the best ...

LAURO2008

thanks...my personal experience is (only) between moteck 2100 (plastic inside) and HH390 (steel) and I could notice the difference

thecaretaker

Going on a photo of the internals of the Super Dark Motor, it looks striking like the insides of the internals of the Clarke-Tech HH390 posted earlier. I've tried to put them side by side and pinpoint the similarities.

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pedro2000uk

Thanks for taking the time to do that clear comparison diagram.

I think it's hard with the market we have today to tell who made what etc.. because as that demonstrates, 2 motors can share some components but not others even though they have the same pcb..
Stb manufacturers use tuners from one manufacturer, PSU's from another, MPEG 2 (or 4) processors from another and either share the identical front end software or decide to do their own version on what can be the same chipset as another stb.

Like central heating boilers/ cars/ DVD players... etc.. A boiler can use x pump, y heat exchanger, z diverter valve etc..

What we have also noticed is the software within the motor can vary widely ... USALS or compatible versions can vary in motors and stbs ... we tested some stbs recently and they either didn't control or even screwed up most motors ... except the STAB motors?

Hakon

I'm pretty shoure that a OEM makes all these motors like Golden Interstar, Clarke Tech ,Super Dark etc as they look the same outside and some inside.

Moteck is a another OEM, they have confirmed that they make other brands.

STAB make their own, i guess.

BTW i have found SAAB components in VOLVO (C70 cabrio) factorymade cars.....hmm.Yes the components was marked SAAB.

Why invent the wheel two times.

LAURO2008

Sorry Pedro, but if it so, which one else can be compared to the HH390?
I mean, which one else has made with gear in steel ?

Thanks

pedro2000uk

see pictures in post 31# above ... the dark motor has the same internals inc metal main gear and same pcb as the Clarke

I'm not 100% on the metal gears v plastic thing anyway because plastic can be stronger or have better properties than metal- it depends etc.. ... and metal can be noisy ... The Moteks might win through in the end because they sell so many and that can lead to a better product .. but right now the Clarke has to be one of the better ones.

is it quite.. quiet?

LAURO2008

Yes, it is

Many thanks!

dodgemaster

as requested a few pics inside my u/s hh90

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pedro2000uk

Thanks for doing that... dodge

btw.. been meaning to open one of them up for ages... never had one go (yet) ..


I say... that looks like a seriously better build ... (but it still broke).




How strong is that spring on the body of the main gear ... looks like a limiter that will give..

dodgemaster

the spring sits against a arm that is part of the casting of the motor housingacting as a harware limiter, when I took the motor out it went off with a good twang, so yes I would say its quite strong, it also had a small amount of water inside the unit not that that was the fact it went wrong. I would say it was the worm gear that caused the problem , worm gear is ally and the main gear is steel and I think it shaved the worm gear and seized up with the fragments and that caused the teeth on the other gears to flatten out. Well that's my theory anyway

guest

Thanks for putting those up.

Is it not the case that some clones have the plastic gearing replaced with metal?

Whilst it may seem obvious that Motors with all metal gearing should be longer lasting, is there evidence showing that that is so?

rolfw

Good point, the metal gear DiSEqC motors have not been around long enough to prove that they will last longer.They will only be as strong as the weakest component and they are being sold on the basis that they are better able to handle larger dishes, even this has not been proven over the longer term.

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pedro2000uk

It depends what metal it is ...and what plastic it is.. and then there's ..... design, engineering, production tolerances/ quality control and if fakes of the whole motor or if it contains some fake parts (really not easy to guarantee nowadays for any manufacturer and if it happens, it's dealt with but.. many manufacturers actually keep quiet about it)..... OH.. and then there's if they have er.. engineered in a set life for the product.... like they do with everything else nowadays...

or there's just.. "things do break"....

(I'd put it to one side and remake that worm gear (when not busy) ...if the rest of the motor's OK)

I'd like to know what that spring does on the main gear... if it's an E/W limiter, that's usually done by a simple switch... to me it looks more like a damper.. to take strain off the motor (didn't work did it... But maybe it does a bit).

dodgemaster

sorry to confuse you its the way I have written it down that's confusing, (it was late last night and brain not thinking straight) what I meant was the casting arm on the motor is the spring tensioner and the casting of the main housing has a peg cast in it to act as a hardware limit, you are correct in saying its a damper, as for repair its not only the worm gear its the two cogs on the motor side as well, if you want any more specific photos let me know
one other thing I have to retract is the worm gear being made of ally , after further investigation it is steel , the way it was machined made it look like ally, so that puts my theory of the worm gear being the weak point out the window

pedro2000uk

That's a relief, that could be just normal damage- seen plenty of chewed cogs in all sorts of gearboxes over the years. The spring damper, if that's what it is, might explain that the STABs can 'give' a bit on a big dish, but still keep very accurate position.

The STAB HH120s have been used on an awful lot of the heavy Triax 1.1s after a number of other motors were tried... The best test really….…not cheap though.

dodgemaster

heres a couple of pics that might show it better than I can explain

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bubby-joe

Dodgemaster I had a similar sounding problem with my HH-90, bought new in 2002 the motor never worked from day 1, the distributor sent me a logic board and I installed it but it never fixed the problems, the diseqc 1.2 would not save positions and the USALS would not move to the selected satellite coordinates but only to the zero location and also would not save satellite locations, this was with 3 Pansat 2500a's, a fortec Ultra, a Neusat sp6000, a Coolsat 5000 or a Viewsat Ultra so testing on 7 boxes with the same results the problem is with the motor in this case. But this is another problem with the same motor.

To my theoretical problems with the HH-90 motor, it would run very jumpy or just stall all together and not move, it was all setup with a 1 meter dish that's within specs for weight, this happened with the indicated bolt in the photo on the snug side but If I loosened and then tightened it to the looser spec stated it worked fine. I notified the distributor where I bought it but have heard nothing back and really don't expect to. Sorry for the messy printing but it's covered in PAM spray and it won't come off. Don't ask how many Newton's, I couldn't tell you but at 15 Ft.lb. the upper mount bolt must put some crushing pressure on the worm assembly to cause this, the bolt passes directly under the worm assembly and that's my theory for very erratic running and motor won't work when heated to 120 degree's in the summer sun, compression and metal expansion but it is just a theory. On the hot ones if there cooled with cool water they then work until they heat back up again.

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pedro2000uk

That's a good observation and well worth noting. I've not seen that but I have seen enough bolts on delicate dish faces over tightened but really you tend to need to tighten motors up quite a bit and 15ft/lb you'd expect to be OK ... that's a poor design flaw if it does do that, something that worries me though is if we are at times looking at a bootleg problem, the STABs are generally more expensive and more attractive to bootleg.

bubby-joe

The way to test my theory is to snug up that bolt on a working unit and see if it jams up then loosen and see if it starts back up, By the way it's a real one, not a clone or a knock off but like I said it was a problem motor from day 1, It's replacement is on is way from Toronto should be here later this week, not a STAB unit but an SG2100, hope it wasn't made on a Friday of a long weekend. The STAB HH-90 quit on game day and decided it really didn't want to move any more and the plastic top failed all over the place with some help from a 2 lb Snap-on but you know after a mechanical adjustment the darn thing still works as poorly as before it quit on game day (now that's a mechanical restart). I don't thing the worm gear has more than 5 hours total time on it in four years and it seems a shame but such is life. I also have the original logic board and I don't think there is really anything wrong with it but I didn't put it back in to test that, the original problem was the motor quit working, possibly over tightened enough to make the motor fail but at that time they replaced a lot of logic boards. But for now it's back to the scrap pile till I need a small motor or worm assembly for another project. It's only money and My Ex's kids get not one dime of it.

LAURO2008

Hello m8's,

it has been a while ..I really would like to have your feed back about th "dark motor Superior"

What do you think? Is there any pic where we can see in it ? I mean plastic or metal gear

Thanks as usual

LAURO2008

OK thanks Darkmotor... but still I would like to get a pic of the Superior inside...they can write whatever they want on the box :-)