Schematic For Echostar AD3000ip Power Supply

Sixoence

Many thanks Llew - I have a 9v cooling fan from a laptop, but its only 2.5cm. It will mount nicely to the right of the CPU. Are there any 9v supplies available????

Llew

There's an 8V supply on pin 14 of that connector, but there may be some back EMF from the fan that could kill the Q4 transistor. Better to use the 12V supply with a resistor to drop the voltage. Value would depend on the current taken by the fan - haven't got one of those, but it'll only be a few mA. May be a spec somewhere online.

Llew

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Sixoence

Thanks - by virtue of my eyesight, I've stated the wrong voltage. It's a 5v fan drawing 0.09 Amps. Don't suppose there's a 5v supply in there?

Llew

Yes, the main 5V supply is on pin 5 from the left of the connector (CN2 is the block on the SMPS by the way, I'm referring to the mainboard connector, may have misled you there).

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Llew

I should mention that it's quite easy to just prod a thickish wire into that connector pin, wire and tape it to the fan lead (they're usually too small to do that) and secure it to the other wires with a small plastic tie - saves soldering. I used that method with mine successfully for the many years I had it running. I don't have one in mine now, as I only use the box for its positioner.

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Sixoence

Thanks Llew. I found a 12v CPU fan which I've fitted in between the boards. It's just the right height to be able to be fixed in place via pressure from the case. Not sure how much air will be drawn over the CPU but there's plenty of air coming out of the vents PSU end so hopefully that will extend its life.

Cheers,

Sixoence.

Llew

Yes Sixoence, cooling the power supply will definitely help as the receiver ages. It's where most problems occur over time.

Still, it's a fine receiver to try to keep going, although of course showing its age a bit now...

Llew

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patdiamant

Hi Lew,

The display of my receiver was flickering (as Vlammie) caused by the first capacitor on 5V (C16). It was good on my DVM but bad in the SMPS.

I had put also a separation (cardboard) beetween the boards, with the fan in the middle , and added a small resistor to slow the fan a little: so it is less noisy and send less dust.

Hopping this can help.
Thanks again for this thread.
Pierre

jdfp

Hi, I am new to this forum, so please excuse me if I don't get things quite right.

I was looking for a circuit diagram which I found, thanks very much.

My receiver display was out and so I reset the RCD, through which some kit is fed, at which point all that happened was a loud bang and the internal fuse blew, replaced the fuse but it blew again. I am guessing that Z1 or one of the capacitors has gone short circuit. Before I go delving in, has this happened to anybody else?

TIA David

Llew

As the fuse blew quickly, a visual check in the vicinity of the capacitors across the mains supply should be the first thing to do, also the C10 and C11 electrolytics and bridge rectifier for burns etc.

If no obvious signs of damage, then afraid it's a case of methodically checking these components for shorts.

BTW welcome to the forum

Llew

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jdfp

Thanks for your reply Llew.

Further investigation has revealed that there is no direct short on the mains input side of the board. However I have found the reason for the loud bang, IC1 KA1HO565 has exploded, blowing off part of the casing!

I fear that the component is not as robust as Fairchild's data and application sheets claim it to be!

I can find no source for the component and so it looks like I have a dead Echostar.

David

vlammie

Hi David

I have ordered some KA1H0565R for a reasonable price online in the US. Goto _www.bluestar-online.com

However.... I thought this IC was broken in my SMPS, but it turned out that other components were defect. I would recommend to check other components also, before replacing IC1 and powering up again.

Good luck

Vlammie

jdfp

Hi Vlammie,

Thanks for the info on the website. I have done a bit more checking and it is not surprising the smps controller chip went bang, I have removed the bridge rectifier as two "arms" of it have gone short circuit. I have ascertained that it is a 600V 6A device. I can see no short across where the output of it connects on the board and so am at a bit of a loss as to why it decided to fail. C10 and C11 "appear" to have survived, but. I will check on a bit further before ordering any replacement parts.

David

vlammie

Most suspicious are of course C10 and C11. Use a good measuring device to measure capacitance and/or equivalent series resistance (ESR). Also TR1 could be the cause of your problems. All devices I have seen have a hotspot around R3. Isn't that spot may be the starting point of your problems?

Good luck.

Vlammie

Juliancin

Muchisimas Gracias amigo Llew, siempre ha sido uno de los grandes anhelos del hombre comunicarse a travez de la distancia y el espacio, por ello, con el aporte que has hecho de este valioso diagrama va a servir para alcanzar esa meta que todos deseamos.
Que tengas mucho exito en todos tus proyectos y que Dios te bendiga.

Llew

Gracias Juliancin. Por favor, solamente respuesta en inglés aquí.
Llew

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fullcontrol

thank you much

Cager

Hi Llew. Your circuits and parts list dowloaded with thanks. I can now check if the PSU is causing the problems with my AD3000IP It seems to have a very high threshold for acknoledging that a transponder exists but if I warm the board with a hair dryer I can get channels which it previously couldn't see. I thought I had isolated this to CE921 near the connectors as I could turn some channels on/off by warming and cooling it. Unfortunately replacing this 100uF capacitor with a new one did not cure the problem. For the moment I have strapped it to the nearby PSU heatsink which improves the situation but is still not a total cure. Also the analogue channels are missing until I warm up another area of the board. Have you heard of any similar occurances and do you know of any sources of circuits for the main board?

Llew

Most problems that occur with the Echostar are caused by faults in the PSU. If you have a multimeter, check the voltages to the mainboard at the connector at switch-on and normal running temperature, noticing any that might be dropping down from normal.

If there is, check against the schematic, as it's fairly certain that it will be one of the electrolytics in the PSU associated with that supply line.

AFAIK there's no published diagrams for the mainboard circuit, any problems I've come across have had to be checked out by circuit tracing ( mostly the LNB voltage switching circuits and audio/video switching outputs to the scarts.

Llew

voltage.

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Cager

Once again Llew thanks for your efforts. With the aid of the circuit I established that the 21,30 and 5Volt supplies were OK but the 12V was down to 8.2 and the 8V down to 5.5. Since the feedback to the primary side was obviously working OK I changed the reservoir capacitors C24 and C18 on the two faulty supplies and all came good. I also changed the smoothing caps also. I think a session changing all the other Electrolytics might be a good idea. R17 had also changed to 1K5 and I changed this as well. All the other funnies have gone and the reciever is working as well as ever. It hasn't been swiched off for over eight years so it hasn't done badly!

Cheers and Happy Christmas Cager

Llew

Well done Cager. If in doubt, invariably it's a PSU problem

Llew

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justone

Well, where to start, just joined this forum, mainly because my AD3000IP is dead and googling was telling me it's worth having a look in here.

When I keep it from the mains, and plug in in, one of the relays starts clicking for lets say 20 seconds, rubbish on the display, and then the relay stops, but apart from the rubbish on the display, nothing happens.
I'm currently in the process reading all this, and I'm pretty happy with the shematics. Damn good.
I'm also somewhat skilled with a soldering iron, ya know you have to take it with your hand at the smallest diameter since then you won't need to hold it for that long. ;-)
Well, not too deep into electronics but I'd say enough to replace components if only I'd knew which ones.
Thus, if anybody could think what might cause the above mentioned symthoms I'd be glad. Or perhaps a hint on what to check first.

And if you ask me I really hate all these manufacturers supplying PSU boards being the worst of the whole lot. I recently suffered the very same problem with a KiSS Dvd Player, but was lucky they sent me a new PSU PCB for small money. Something Echostar seems to be not able to.

hope some's out there with a helping hand,
in case not ...ya know it's x-mas now ....

Llew

Hi, and welcome to the forum.

As there is some sign of life re a display of sorts (the primary side is firing up) you will be looking at the voltage readings on the secondary side connector CN2.

Check with a multimeter each voltage. 5VS first, 30V, then the rest. Any deviation below stated voltages will usually be duff electrolytics in the voltage line(s) concerned.

Llew

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justone

Wow, pretty fast answer (even while xmas time)

Ok did as suggested, with an ordinary multimeter, but it turned out to be tricky task. Since, when pluggin in the unit, relais start clickering and voltages change per click. Thus, plug off ... wait until capacitors cleared and re-plugin the whole lot. And 1 out of 20 attempts, the relais seems to remain in a state where the outputs at CN2 have power.
What I detected was the following:
SKEW=5
M-P=4
WEST=5
EAST=5
5VS=5.1
PCS=4.3
30V=37,3
21V=24,9
G=GND
12V=11,8
G=GND
5VD=5,1
5VD=5,1
9V=8,8
G=GND

Values differ on the 21V and 30V line by let's say -2/+5 V when trying differnt times.
One times the machine even fired up until the display did show a channelnumber. Relais did click 1 times which is normal when being connected to the mains.

Besides, I studied your nice DaVinci attempt (great work) with all the comments and the list of items. From scratch, I would simply buy them all in case that helps getting the Echostar going again, but I'm really lost with electronics. I could surely buy them, solder them in the correct way(orientation) but I can't simply guess what's wrong.

Just in case it matters, none of the electrolyts are exploded or such like. And I also got the usual 2 hotspots at R3/R17

Lost again ... anything else I could check next ? A and no I got nothing besides a multimeter and a soldering iron.

vlammie

Hi Justone

I have repaired some in past, and it can be a difficult job, if you don't know where to look.
In the netherlands somebody is offering these PSU's on "Marktplaats" for 28 euro. May be this link wil help to get in touch with the quy, and he might be able to offer you a replacement for the PSU.
_http://link.marktplaats.nl/207759188
It advertisement is in Dutch unfortunately, but you can use google translate if you wish.

Good luck

Vlammie