Schematic For Echostar AD3000ip Power Supply

justone · 30-12-2008

This was a good one (the link) and a real good one (to use google translation). Looks as if google still needs some more investment into it's translation routines, since the result was really amusing.

I had a closer look using a magnifying glass and, well the hotspot turned out to be more or less a desoldering-spot. One end of the resistor seems to have totally lost contact, and when I watch Llew's schematics this surely blew up either diodes or ICs if not both. I assume so since correcting this issue didn't change anything.

Thus, thanks for the link, hopefully this guy does respond to my email.

vlammie · 31-12-2008

Hi Justone

Google translate can be very amusing indeed, but i find it very helpful in understanding at least something of a language i don't have any idea about.

I live in the Netherlands so if i can be of any help, let me know.

Vlammie

**Llew** · 31-12-2008

Originally Posted by justone

Wow, pretty fast answer (even while xmas time)

Ok did as suggested, with an ordinary multimeter, but it turned out to be tricky task. Since, when pluggin in the unit, relais start clickering and voltages change per click. Thus, plug off ... wait until capacitors cleared and re-plugin the whole lot. And 1 out of 20 attempts, the relais seems to remain in a state where the outputs at CN2 have power.
What I detected was the following:
SKEW=5
M-P=4
WEST=5
EAST=5
5VS=5.1
PCS=4.3
30V=37,3
21V=24,9
G=GND
12V=11,8
G=GND
5VD=5,1
5VD=5,1
9V=8,8
G=GND

Values differ on the 21V and 30V line by let's say -2/+5 V when trying differnt times.
One times the machine even fired up until the display did show a channelnumber. Relais did click 1 times which is normal when being connected to the mains.

Besides, I studied your nice DaVinci attempt (great work) with all the comments and the list of items. From scratch, I would simply buy them all in case that helps getting the Echostar going again, but I'm really lost with electronics. I could surely buy them, solder them in the correct way(orientation) but I can't simply guess what's wrong.

Just in case it matters, none of the electrolyts are exploded or such like. And I also got the usual 2 hotspots at R3/R17

Lost again ... anything else I could check next ? A and no I got nothing besides a multimeter and a soldering iron.

Sorry, just caught up with your post (busy on another project).

Voltages look OK (when it's stable), I suspect an intermittent contact somewhere. Tapping or prodding components gently with an insulated probe (plastic pen etc.) may find the culprit.

Using an aerosol freezer or warming up components when the fault occurs can often isolate faults too.

Llew

justone · 09-01-2009

Thanks Llew & Vlammie ...

bought the one Vlammie pointed at, and it arrived today, and works like a charm. (wonder how one managed to get next to no hotspot, looks as if being really rarely used). And it was really cheap keepin' in mind that I would likely have payed much more for 3-4 ICs on their own.

And the good thing, I could likely measure some voltages at differnt points to see if I find vital differences between the damaged and the working one, and see if I could locate the issue using Llew's nice schematics.

**Llew** · 09-01-2009

Good to know that there's a source for these PSU's, Echostar spares don't usually appear on the market. Might get one myself as a spare before they dry up.

Yes, a voltage comparison might be worth doing. Glad that you are up and running.

Llew

Jamie · 27-03-2009

Hi
please help.
how is the power supply protected from
an LNB or Dish Motor Short

Jamie

toz99 · 27-03-2009

Hi Folks,

I have also some psp problems with my AD-3000IP and read all your recommendations.
As a contribution i'm posting 2 original schematics from this receiver

Best Regards
Thomas from Brazil

**Llew** · 27-03-2009

Excellent toz99.

I shall now check any mistakes in my schematic

Thanks

Llew

**Llew** · 27-03-2009

Originally Posted by Jamie

Hi
please help.
how is the power supply protected from
an LNB or Dish Motor Short

Jamie

A short on the 36V supply to the motor operates the protection circuit (an optocouper shuts down the chopper IC providing the 36V).

There's little protection for an LNB or cable short, no fuse. Usually one of the H/V switching transistors gives up the ghost if the short is prolonged.

Llew

toz99 · 28-03-2009

After changing IC1 (1H565R), Diode D5 (N4937) and resistor R9 (100k 2W), the receiver fired up normally

Thanks folks for this threat, which should help many poeple

Thomas - Brazil

Sixoence · 28-07-2009

Hi - my AD3000 seems to be fading.....Its a great machine but recently has lost channels still available on my other box. A tuner fault maybe? Anyone got any ideas as to whether this can be repaired?

**Llew** · 28-07-2009

Perhaps your transponder database is full. Try deleting some TP's that you don't use and rescan those you need.

**Channel Hopper** · 28-07-2009

A full reset is probably in order, and just scan in the FTA channels on the more popular satellites.

Anyone with a motorised dish of 50cms or more with a 3000/3600 could well be in jeopardy now there are so many transponders out there.

Sixoence · 29-07-2009

Hi Thanks for the replies. To clarify, the channel list is not full. It just won't find previously scanned channels, reporting 'no signal'. Its as though the signal has become very weak but this is not the case as my other box works fine. If the tuner module is suspect, can it be repaired/replaced??

Cheers,

Sixoence

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Schematic For Echostar AD3000ip Power Supply For those who wish to discuss the more technical aspects of Satellite receivers and TVs. perhaps how to replace components, fault finding etc.