Boiler woes

Terryl

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I would have soaked it for as long as you could in a bath of CLR, it would have cleaned out the inside.
 

PaulR

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Don't forget to put some inhibitor in the system now.
 

MarkW

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Well done,saved a bundle there.You might want to try and flush out the whole system,rads etc.Not quite sure how to do that though.Also I don't think you can use the inhibitor for normal ch systems but one for combi boilers?
 

PaulR

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Also I don't think you can use the inhibitor for normal ch systems but one for combi boilers?
I can't see why not. Unless I've been very lucky in my choices I've used the same inhibitor in the UK conventional boiler (HW storage tank and CW header tank) and sort of hybrid combi/conventional in France (just a CW header tank).
 

MarkW

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I can't see why not. Unless I've been very lucky in my choices I've used the same inhibitor in the UK conventional boiler (HW storage tank and CW header tank) and sort of hybrid combi/conventional in France (just a CW header tank).
Must admit I haven't looked into this for ages but at one time the chemicals in inhibitors were too strong for combi boilers.
 

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And it appears to have fouled up again.

At least I know how to take it apart, clean and refit within an hour or so, without dumping cruddy water all over the kitchen.
 

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Back agin with another issue with the Wickes boiler

It has been performing well over the past year, though of course there has been no need to put on the central heating.

Now with the nights closing in, last week I did the usual reset/check pressures and ensure the timer is set correctly.

Last year I was able to clear the earlier issues of waterways clogging and an iffy thermostat, and I bought a jamboree bag of - new - Halstead parts that claimed to be compatible for the Combi 82/102 (which they are - almost) and was able to replace some of the seals and springs around the diverter.

I'm now in need of help. The bag of bits has a couple of seals inside that are the same, and should I think work as a replacement part at the sharp end of the flow switch, though it is different in dimensions as far as the height is concerned, plus it has a 13mm collar. Since there has always been a small leak from the original I replaced it in the Spring with the new version, hey presto ! no leak.

But the length stops the diverter from enabling the central heating to start. Putting the old one back resorts to a leak that is now annoying regardless of what I do to seal it.

So in order to fix it I need an exact replica of the original (which isn't in the pack ) or - I hope - cut down the replacement with a fine hacksaw around the groove at the top, furthest from the edge.

I don't have a part number of the orignal, and the local plumbing merchants cannot help, so where am I likely to find the proper one should cutting the one that is in the boiler not restore operation without drips ?

Thanks for looking
 

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Channel Hopper

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If its of help I have already looked at a number of repair / service packs for the same boiler, though all of them show the type I have and not the original , smaller version.

For example

The full jamboree pack



and the diaphragm repair kit

 

Channel Hopper

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The correct seal is pictured here (10mm nut ), I cannot find a parts list that covers individual bits.


I don't need a complete flowswitch, the orignal is fine.
 

jeallen01

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You might want to ask the question here
 

jeallen01

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The No. 1 Home Entertainment Tech Community & Resource. ???? :-lmao
If you care to take the time to look around that particular forum area, you will find a lot of questions & answers relating to C/H boiler issues and repairs - or maybe post your own questions - then you might be lucky enough to find an answer!!

And probably somewhat more likely than asking it here.
 

Channel Hopper

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I know exactly what is wrong, the standard service pack does not include the correct seal for the flow meter.

The only question would be where I could find one since I do not have the exact part number (and neither does the plumbers).

After another search I have found what looks to be the correct one, included within a service kit from Halstead, a pity they don't give the individual part numbers.


I will have a go at cutting down the spare first though, what harm can it do ?
 
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focus36

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Hey , @Channel Hopper had quick look is this the right shape, shame it don't have dimensions could fit,

HERE
 

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Thanks for looking, but no, the top section might not fit within the diverter chamber.

I will provide pictures of the surgery at lunchtime, if I can find the hacksaw blades.
 

focus36

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well here's an option if it don't work, not a bad price even thou you only need the nut

HERE

if you right click the picture open in a new tab it seems to give you a zoomed image
 

Channel Hopper

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well here's an option if it don't work, not a bad price even thou you only need the nut

HERE

if you right click the picture open in a new tab it seems to give you a zoomed image


Thanks

That is not a bad price at all, other sites are claiming £30 + for that kit

Now where does the small neoprene washer go ?
 

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Success, for the time being. So far no leaks, however the heating itself still doesn't come on.

I've looked a bit closer and it appears the primary flow switch isn't rising enough to trip the microswitch when central heating is required, though it is fine when I want hot water (so I doubt it is the diaphragm underneath)

I can fool the circuitry by closing the switch manually, just to get the radiators warm, but I'm still not sure why there is less pressure through the diverter on the heating command.
Strangely enough, when there was a leak the central heating would come on without trouble, but not an ideal situation with pans collecting water on the worktop.
 

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Lazarus

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Time to follow the precedent set by our French-based Mod. and get yourself a Peasant-Burning Stove.
 

Channel Hopper

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Time to follow the precedent set by our French-based Mod. and get yourself a Peasant-Burning Stove.

I ran out of peasants in the spring, I'm not expecting a delivery until November.

Ive done the usual checks, (pressure check/expansion vessel pumped up/no air in radiators), I will probably replace the seal under the microswitch next as I have a spare, just in case excess friction is the culprit, but since the hot water is fine its unlikely to help/
 
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