Light bulbs - longevity and modern technology

Channel Hopper

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I've seen (and posted) links to videos of modern style lamps and bulbs, construction and hazards before now. Most if not all deal with the 230/240V designs and their dropper circuits or the heatsinks and earthing, but I cannot recall ones that are designed around low voltage

A client has had their entire ceiling in one room blown inside a month and I was inclned to think this might be a common transformer that had failed, but no, all were connected to an individual transformer (of slightly different models granted).

Replacing the existing lights with standard halogens has restored visibility however the cause of this is still under investigation.

The lamps involved are Tesco supplied LEDs which are supposed to be guaranteed to run for at least 3 years or 15000 hours continuously. I don't think they have had a fifth of this, but they are outside the two year warranty I would normally insist on.

The specific model

Tesco Led 50W Gu5.3 2 Pack - Tesco Groceries

I will take one apart this weekend to find out if there is a common fault, but at a fiver each I don't think they are worth replacing one for one.

Has anyone seen, or tried these ?

Brand new Tesla light bulb (better than LED)
 

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Well I have only ever used GU10s but have fitted over 100 of these and only had one failure in 5 years, but personally do not like warm white or cool white, I have also fitted another 20 or so in my own house, but daylight GU10 bulbs. Helps with the macular degeneration
 

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At £2 each they are a bargain if they last the hours claimed.

Regardless of a dimmer switch in circuit (there isn't and these bulbs are not designed to be used with one) I wonder if the claim that a bulb is dimmable gives it a higher quality of internal components ?
 

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Are the transformers for the GU5.3s electronic or magnetic? If they're electronic, are the rated to run LEDs? Electronic halogen lamp ballasts are not good to run LED replacements as they're designed for a bigger load, so produce a very nasty spiky power which kills LED lamps off pretty sharpish...

Solution; Replace the Halogen ballasts with LED compatible drivers... :)

And yes, I know, it's never as simple as just replacing the bulbs, it's why I avoid anything to do with GU5.3 and GU10 these days, I hate halogen lights & their replacements...
 

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The GU10s I referred to have internal transformers so it is just a case of replacing the bulbs and anyone who runs halogens these days is just pouring hard earned money down the drain
 

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GU10 LEDs are still a problem, especially if they're stuck in holes in ceilings, as they can get quite hot and the electronic transformers die from overheating, resulting in frequent replacements, LED lamps shouldn't really be used where they don't have sufficient cooling, otherwise it's a false economy...
 

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The bulbs mentioned in the opening post are installed in the roof of a conservatory style extension, brick walls, slate roof and a couple of velux windows. Whilst there is certainly nothing to worry about at this time of year, there is a chance in the summer the ceiling void reaches some silly temperatures.

But all bulbs failing within a period of weeks ?

I will have a closer look at the transformers, as mentioned they were not all the same.
 

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Ref LED bulbs - might have been the transformers at one time but I've had more than my "fair share" of both 12V (those have now had the transformers replaced by gen LED ones) and mains-powered ones well before the declared life - particular case was the THREE "corncob" ones bought for the outside security lights, as each one failed in less than a year of intermittent use, and the eBay seller (from China!) ignored repeated attempts at communiction/requests for replacements!! :rolleyes:

OTOH, most of the halogen bulbs go on for years - including those in the lounge wall lights and chandelier.

Nowadays I tend to buy them from CPC-Farnell as they have a good returns policy and generally live up it.
 

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I would agree that some halogens do go on for years (the replacement program I have been running with has been going for 5 years) however when using 30W to 40W halogens that adds up considerably especially with the community centre I have been replacing them for the last five years. The 90 halogens there were drawing 2.7KW and are now drawing 300watts for the whole building which at this time of the year makes a ridiculous saving on power with no reduction in visibility, I would still consider it a good investment even if one or two did fail on a regular basis. In my house only the bathroom and kitchen have external low voltage transformers as per regulations
 

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A bit of a delay in carrying out what was planned, but here is the result.

LEDs may be useful at some point.20181219_132331.jpg20181219_132451.jpg20181219_132516.jpg20181219_135402.jpg20181219_135415.jpg20181219_140706.jpg
 

PaulR

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So what did you do to get the LEDs illuminating that they didn't get when in situ?
 

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Channel Hopper

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What is also useful are the two electrolytics, 130 degree items with a good amount of lead left on them.20181219_170246.jpg
 
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PaulR

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One of our LED bulbs (an ES thread replacement) failed a couple of days ago. Only in for 2-1/2 years so I'm a bit disappointed as it didn't last longer than the CFL it replaced - shorted in fact.

I must get my scalpels and screwdrivers out to have a look inside.
 

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What temp rating were the originals (105C?)?
What is also useful are the two electrolytics, 130 degree items with a good smount of lead left on them.View attachment 121341
PS: biggest repair issue I've seen with failed LED lamps is actually getting inside them without damaging the cases beyond possible reassembly. Probably why I haven't bothered to try!
 

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Some of my friends have similar problems with small Halogen Energy Savers bulbs expected life 2,000 hours actual life is 300 to 500 hours,

Halogen Capsule 33w 240v G9 Osram Clear Light Bulb - Replaces 40w Version - 66733 or HEHP33.
 

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Just wondering if the problem with the originals was that their temp rating was too low to withstand prolonged exposure to the actual temps with which they have to cope in service.
 
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Channel Hopper

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The 130s are the originals, a better rating than the upgrades in many satellite psu gamble kits out there.
 
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