Received the wrong Motor from Amazon

jeallen01

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Or you could use the Dishpointer.com obstacle checker, and it will work it out for you.
Knew about dishpointer, but not about the obstacle checker - so have never tried or looked at it.
@Loquacious - see here:Satellite Finder / Dish Alignment Calculator with Google Maps | DishPointer.com - you obviously need to enter your own latitude and longitude. You also still need the height of the tree!
Edited: Obstacle Checker gives Line of Sight (LoS) information - and that would be correct for a prime-focus dish - but, I assume, for an off-set dish, the LoS is the line drawn along the off-set angle when the beam strikes the dish face(?).
 
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Loquacious

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Dish : Dur- Line Aluminium 75/80cm
LNB : Dur - Line Twin
4. Receiver: Fortec Star HD Passion Plus ( 2010 )
5. WF 100 cable
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Knew about dishpointer, but not about the obstacle checker - so have never tried or looked at it.
@Loquacious - see here:Satellite Finder / Dish Alignment Calculator with Google Maps | DishPointer.com - you obviously need to enter your own latitude and longitude. You also still need the height of the tree!
I've just looked at dishepointer.com as you recommended and is :
Your Location Satellite Data Dish Setup Data
Latitude: 50.8375°
Longitude: -0.2612°
Name: 0.8W INTELSAT 10-02 | THOR 5 | THOR 6 | THOR 7
Distance: 38458km
Motor Latitude: 50.8°
Declination Angle: 7.4°
Dish Elevation: °
Elevation: 31.8°
Azimuth (true): 180.7°
Azimuth (magn.): 181.4°
LNB Skew [?]: 0.4°
 

Mickha

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LNB skew is just the rotation of the LNB, in the holder, it doesn't apply to you, as you'll be setting up a motorized system, so the skew, for each satellite, will be done automatically, as the motor moves the dish, if set up correctly.
 

davemurgtroyd

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LNB skew is just the rotation of the LNB, in the holder, it doesn't apply to you, as you'll be setting up a motorized system, so the skew, for each satellite, will be done automatically, as the motor moves the dish, if set up correctly.
At least for most satellites but unfortunately not optimum for 28E
 

jeallen01

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At least for most satellites but unfortunately not optimum for 28E
Doubt that would be much a problem for the OP as he is in Southern England - where many of the 28E signals are very strong.
 

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There are a few satellite slots which have skew settings which can affect reception in the south of England

The Eutelsat group would often introduce a 3 degree , possibly 3.5 into their birds but I'm unsure if this is still the case.
 

Loquacious

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Motor : HD Line DisceqC Motor 50-120 ( apparently a Moteck SG2100A clone)
Dish : Dur- Line Aluminium 75/80cm
LNB : Dur - Line Twin
4. Receiver: Fortec Star HD Passion Plus ( 2010 )
5. WF 100 cable
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Thanks for all your contributions . Really appreciated ..
:-clap
Now I have to decide where to assemble my dish as many of you gave valuable suggestions.
I think I will stick with the wall underneath of the tiles ,with a good and solid brackets and a 60 cm pole to hold the motor dish.
Is it going to be alright?
I mainly need a Hispasat 30degree , 19.2 Astra East and Hotbird.
So with the motorised and my 80cm dish I'm hopefully going to be able to receive it. Am I?
:rolleyes:
 

jeallen01

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Should have no problem with most of the transponders on those sats if you get the dish alignment correct - that will probably take a fair bit of time if you have never set up a motorised dish before, but there is lots of guidance on the forum for newbies at this task(especially recently o_O).
NB: start with getting the alignment correct for Thor at 0.8W (not those you mentioned) and then work you way from there.
Keep us posted on how you get on :)
 

Loquacious

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Motor : HD Line DisceqC Motor 50-120 ( apparently a Moteck SG2100A clone)
Dish : Dur- Line Aluminium 75/80cm
LNB : Dur - Line Twin
4. Receiver: Fortec Star HD Passion Plus ( 2010 )
5. WF 100 cable
My Location
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Hello Again,
I have everything in place to start my adventure to put my dish up when the weather permits so the next question is regarding to the cables.
Some of you have suggested to use a foam dual cable for the motorised as I will have a TDT and my Fortec HD Plus receiver.
When I moved in 2 years ago the previous owner left his SKY dish with a twin cable which I was able to connect to my Fortec receiver and get the Astra 19.2 when was winter and the tree in front obviously was without leaves and I managed to get nearly 80% of the channels ( TVEI , German etc..) but when the spring started the signal was lost. Anyway, the point is I still have the cable and the are the same length so can I use them or is better to buy another one?
Many thanks,
 

jeallen01

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Kinda depends on:
a) which sort of twin cable it is - could be twin CT-100 (if that exists?) , or might well be the smaller diameter CT65 which seems OK over short distances (the cable type should be printed on the cable sheath, but I think, both types are foam-filled - just don't use air-spaced cable like generic "satellite cable" or some much older types);
b) how long the cable runs are - IMHO, 10-15m should be OK with either sort, but if longer than that then you will probably lose some signal with CT65 as compared with CT100.

PS: regarding foam-filled cables, if you decide to change the cables then aim to get Copper cored, screened and sheilded cables , and avoid anything with aluminium in it because that is more susceptible to corrosion issues.

FWIW, I would start with what you already have before thinking about changing the cables - you are at the beginning of a possibly "long road" and so don't try to jump too far (and spend too much time/money) too fast.
 
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Loquacious

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My Satellite Setup
Motor : HD Line DisceqC Motor 50-120 ( apparently a Moteck SG2100A clone)
Dish : Dur- Line Aluminium 75/80cm
LNB : Dur - Line Twin
4. Receiver: Fortec Star HD Passion Plus ( 2010 )
5. WF 100 cable
My Location
Shoreham by Sea
Hello, Thanks again.
I read on the cable and is 2XCB63R Bskyb 0.65 Twin but have just checked the length. It will be shorter so I cannot use it.:(
So the length will be approximately 30 metres.
Could you tell me where I can buy it. Preferable white as I've seen only black in some webpages. Some suggestions will be appreciated.
have a good day... cheers:-applause
 

Loquacious

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My Satellite Setup
Motor : HD Line DisceqC Motor 50-120 ( apparently a Moteck SG2100A clone)
Dish : Dur- Line Aluminium 75/80cm
LNB : Dur - Line Twin
4. Receiver: Fortec Star HD Passion Plus ( 2010 )
5. WF 100 cable
My Location
Shoreham by Sea
Kinda depends on:
a) which sort of twin cable it is - could be twin CT-100 (if that exists?) , or might well be the smaller diameter CT65 which seems OK over short distances (the cable type should be printed on the cable sheath, but I think, both types are foam-filled - just don't use air-spaced cable like generic "satellite cable" or some much older types);
b) how long the cable runs are - IMHO, 10-15m should be OK with either sort, but if longer than that then you will probably lose some signal with CT65 as compared with CT100.

PS: regarding foam-filled cables, if you decide to change the cables then aim to get Copper cored, screened and sheilded cables , and avoid anything with aluminium in it because that is more susceptible to corrosion issues.

FWIW, I would start with what you already have before thinking about changing the cables - you are at the beginning of a possibly "long road" and so don't try to jump too far (and spend too much time/money) too fast.

I cannot find anything without alumminum ? I found this one:MERCURY Eco Twin RG6 Foamed PE Coaxial Cable with Al Braid - 100m White NEW but there is alumminum.
 

jeallen01

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Hello, Thanks again.
I read on the cable and is 2XCB63R Bskyb 0.65 Twin but have just checked the length. It will be shorter so I cannot use it.:(
So the length will be approximately 30 metres.
The "0.65" sounds like it's a BskyB version of CT 65 - so it's the smaller version, and not really suitable for long runs.

I cannot find anything without alumminum ? I found this one:MERCURY Eco Twin RG6 Foamed PE Coaxial Cable with Al Braid - 100m White NEW but there is alumminum.
Could you tell me where I can buy it. Preferable white as I've seen only black in some webpages. Some suggestions will be appreciated.
have a good day... cheers:-applause[/QUOTE]
As I implied, I'm not sure if there is a twin version of CT100 (especially with all-Copper construction), and so you are probably going to need 2 separate runs of CT 100, but you can tie/strap those together - however CT 100 is larger than CT65, and so the hole through the wall where it enters the house might not be large enough, but that should be fairly easy to solve!

You should not have too much trouble in finding all-Copper CT100, but some stuff is better than others - personally, nowadays, I tend to use Black Webro WF100 WF100 Coaxial Cable Black 100m - WEBRO | CPC, and you can also get it and similar cables from other sources (NB: CPC don't charge P&P on orders over £5+VAT, so the price on the CPC page is what you would actually pay.). CPC also supply the White version, which is here WF100 Coaxial Cable White 100m - WEBRO | CPC -- OTOH, the White version may be more susceptible to damage caused by UV rays from the Sun, and so should really be protected against direct sunlight as far as possible.

OTOH, I have also tried CPC's own "Pro Power branded" version of "CT100" which is cheaper, but I don't like it because the copper shielding foil is relatively brittle and tears easily, whereas the foil in the Webro version is more flexible and less prone to tearing.
 
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A

archive10

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I tend to use Black Webro WF100 WF100 Coaxial Cable Black 100m - WEBRO | CPC, and you can also get it and similar cables from other sources (NB: CPC don't charge P&P on orders over £5+VAT, so the price on the CPC page is what you would actually pay.). CPC also supply the White version, which is here WF100 Coaxial Cable White 100m - WEBRO | CPC -- OTOH, the White version may be more susceptible to damage caused by UV rays from the Sun, and so should really be protected against direct sunlight as far as possible.
Incidentally, why is it called WF-100?
I mean, it is not indicative of the diameter, or the impedance, or anything I can find in the Webro data-sheet.
Also, the data-sheet clearly indicates that the outer jacket is PVC, not PE, even though it is black.
And being black (rather than white), it will be even more susceptible to sunlight absorbtion and thermal expansion.

Perhaps we can continue the discussion here: What is the best twin cable for a motorised dish?.
 
A

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It would be interesting (and perhaps a lot more revealing) to compare the internals of some of these so called "rebadged" versions.
Yes, but we can also compare the outsides.
Here's a pic of the box for my recently purchased "ultra-low cost" motor.

20171022_114233x.jpg

Very similar packaging to the OPs dish, and many of the others, wouldn't you say?
But intriguingly, my motor does not seem to behave the same as SG-2100s...

I am inclined to believe the factory that makes these things does them to customer spec, eg what colour would you like, what features of the electronics etc.
Much to the song of "deviations from standard are extra cost..."
 

jeallen01

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Incidentally, why is it called WF-100?
Probably because the "proper" generic abbreviation for "CT100" is probably " CTF100" ("F" = "foam") and "W" because it's made by Webro to distinguish it from similar products from other suppliers.
As for the "100", like the "65" in CT 65, that number does not relate to the outside diameter ->
 

Loquacious

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My Satellite Setup
Motor : HD Line DisceqC Motor 50-120 ( apparently a Moteck SG2100A clone)
Dish : Dur- Line Aluminium 75/80cm
LNB : Dur - Line Twin
4. Receiver: Fortec Star HD Passion Plus ( 2010 )
5. WF 100 cable
My Location
Shoreham by Sea
Yes, but we can also compare the outsides.
Here's a pic of the box for my recently purchased "ultra-low cost" motor.

View attachment 111195

Very similar packaging to the OPs dish, and many of the others, wouldn't you say?
But intriguingly, my motor does not seem to behave the same as SG-2100s...

I am inclined to believe the factory that makes these things does them to customer spec, eg what colour would you like, what features of the electronics etc.
Much to the song of "deviations from standard are extra cost..."

Hello, it's very similar to mine so do you think the motor itself is not good as a SG2100s Motech?
PS. As you can see in my previous threads , the discussion is interminable.
The weather here right now is not suitable for the installation so I've got time to send back this motor and request a Motech if it's available on the market.
Thanks for your information.:)
 

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There's absolutely nothing wrong with the Motor you've got.

Great value for money and should last you for years. Years, I say!
 
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Hello, it's very similar to mine so do you think the motor itself is not good as a SG2100s Motech?
I think they are most likely made in the same factory, probably with same mechanical parts give and take some LEDs and a switch, possibly with the same software, but just maybe with slightly different software configuration options.
I am guessing yours will work just like a "real" sg2100 if it has same switches and leds.
 
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