Newbie Here Some advice please for a new member.

Mickha

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You're probably best getting a 3", heavy duty, adjustable ground mounted system, that you can get level, when required, or make one yourself.

These can be bolted into concrete, or paving slabs, and then you have the option to level it using adjustable screws.
Similar to this one, but this is only a 2" diameter, the 3" is more sturdy with extra bolts.

2inchstand.jpg
 

RimaNTSS

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Or something like this. IMG_20180831_101211 (Large).jpg Do not ask me, as I have promised this mount to another sat-hobbyist.
 

airbourne

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Don't worry Rima. I would only respond if it were offered for sale! How high would the vertical tube need to be for a 1.2 dish?
 

moonbase

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...I have very good fabricating skills along with all the tools like welding/cutting and grinding etc...


@airbourne

If you can match the fabricating skills illustrated in the forum topic I have linked to below you are doing well. This topic covers the fabrication of an H-H mount. The fabrication work starts from around post 45 on page 3 of the topic.

DIY Horizon to Horizon Polar Mount

Come to think of it, that guy also relocated to the UK from overseas, Italy I think he came from?
 

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How high would the vertical tube need to be for a 1.2 dish?
1-1.2m will be more than enough. The mount I have is 1.2m high and it was good for Channel Master 1.2m.
 

airbourne

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moonbase. What an excellent project. And two motors! As long as the actuator is up to the UK winter wind. It would require a set of rollers to get a nice bend on the metal to form the radius he has on that. Its not impossible to form it without, but it would take some time. You can see he has made board drawings of exactly what he wants to make. Just like the guys that make wrought iron curls on a gate.
I've spent a lot of time restoring elderly VWs. The currant project is a 66 Split screen bus from ground up. I don't buy replacement panels or chassis, I make them. But enough about my other hobby. Lets get back to this one!
I just hope I can show something when its all set up and working. I'm on the highest hill in kent so I must be up for something. Steve
 

moonbase

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...I think I've read it right.....I'll need an adapter from the dish to the motor, plus another adapter to fit the motor to the pole? Steve

Normally, a Jaeger 1224 motor would come with a pole clamp that fixes the motor to the pole. The same applies to a polar mount it should come with some type of sleeve or clamping that fixes it to the pole.

With a Jaeger 1224 motor, they were originally shipped with the 1.2m Channel Master adapter plate. If you locate a second hand Jaeger 1224 check that the Channel Master adapter plate comes with it. The name of the Jaeger 1224 derives from its use as a motor for a 1.2 or 2.4 metre dish. The adapter plate shipped with the motor is pre-drilled with holes to accept either a 1.2 metre Channel Master dish or a 2.4 metre IRTE dish
 

airbourne

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Thanks for that info moonbase. All I need to do is locate a Jaeger 1224 motor. Had a good look but no luck so far. I'll put a want on here with the hope someone has one laying in the shed. Steve
 

Mickha

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They're extremely difficult to find, nowadays, as they haven't been manufactured for some time.
I would love to get hold of a 1224 EL, and they were reasonably cheap, and available, when I started in this hobby.
motor_smr_1224el.jpg
 

airbourne

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If I can't find one I'll have to try one of the others. What comes second place to a 1224?
 

moonbase

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If I can't find one I'll have to try one of the others. What comes second place to a 1224?


There is a modern day "equivalent" to a Jaeger 1224 motor and it comes with the Channel Master adapter plate, it is called a Moteck H180. A few forum members have used them and the feedback is mixed, if you are prepared to spend a bit of time setting it up correctly it should do the job but they can be a bit fiddly to install. The Moteck H180 should be available off the shelf from forum sponsors or the internet.

The Moteck H180 is the only real alternative I can think of for a Jaeger 1224 H-H motor, other than that it would be a polar mount and actuator.
 

moonbase

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I've been thinking about changing the magnet on my actuator to one with more poles to get a higher resolution, are these available anywhere or have you tried this? The "HS" versions of the SuperJack have a 4 pole rather than 2 pole magnet. I was pondering the idea of trying one out if I could get my hands on one.


How about changing some of the nylon cogs to update the gearing to provide more sensitive resolution?
 

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Mickha

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The Moteck H180 is no where near as good, as the Jaeger 1224, I have both, but it does work, although it's more awkward to get it tracking the satellite arc correctly.
I also have a ground mounted system, which is reasonably protected, from strong winds, which makes it easier to fit, and maintain, as well as offering the dish/motor some protection.
 

airbourne

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If I go for the actuator, what length do I purchase? I've seen 12 and 18 inch so far.
Of course then I'd need to search for a polar mount.
 
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Channel Hopper

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Length is down to the total coverage of the arc you might require, the distance from the centre pivot point, but - usually - most importantly, the distance the dish is installed off a wall.

Not a problem if ground based.

I would always go for the longer actuator , and adjust the points of attachment to allow full travel of an 18” (improves the pulse count per inch) but that is me.
 

moonbase

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If I go for the actuator, what length do I purchase? I've seen 12 and 18 inch so far.
Of course then I'd need to search for a polar mount.

18" minimum for an azimuth (East/West) actuator. If you think you might upgrade in the future look at a 24" actuator.
 

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How about changing some of the nylon cogs to update the gearing to provide more sensitive resolution?
I've played with one on the bench and really think an extra 2 poles on the magnet would help, the steps are too big.
They all seem to suffer slightly if you approach from either east or west, i.e. say you save it at step 100 it will be 101 from one direction and 99 from the other for perfect alignment. Another step or half a step would help.
I could 3d print some gears! but I wouldn't know where to begin.
 

Trust

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I think its easier to replace the reedswitch and magnet for a optical sensor , than you can choose each amount of pulses /º
Did that several times in actuators and H2H rotors .
Therefore you need a V-box with the extra + 5V connector .
Btw , I do have a spare original CM 1.2 polarmount and several 18" actuators
 

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RustySpoons

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I think its easier to replace the reedswitch and magnet for a optical sensor , than you can choose each amount of pulses /º
Did that several times in actuators and H2H rotors .
Therefore you need a V-box with the extra + 5V connector .
Btw , I do have a spare original CM 1.2 polarmount and several 18" actuators
Wow, what a great idea... Now that optical wheel I can 3D print...
 

Trust

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See that little crowtail circuitboard for € 4,45.
 
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