Gibertini Polarmount Spares

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Since my Gibertini polar mount has been taken down I have decided to change the u bolts that clamp it to the pole.

All the u-bolts are rusted up, and the adjustment bolt is also bent.

Does anyone know where I can get some spares for it.

many thanks.
 

Channel Hopper

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PM me with pictures, I did have a box of older Gibby parts in the shed
 

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Will look when I get back from work (which might be tomorrow morning now)

In cases like bad corrosion, usually on 1970s motorcycles I have a can of Kent Rusty Penetrant, which does a rather good job in about two hours.

If something is really corroded on, through electrolysis I use a 50/50 mix of diesel and petrol and dunk the whole thing in.
 

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moonbase

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Will look when I get back from work (which might be tomorrow morning now)
In cases like bad corrosion, usually on 1970s motorcycles I have a can of Kent Rusty Penetrant, which does a rather good job in about two hours.
If something is really corroded on, through electrolysis I use a 50/50 mix of diesel and petrol and dunk the whole thing in.


@Channel Hopper

There was an old topic (now closed) where you recommended soaking an actuator in some industrial grade refuse sacks tied around the actuator filled with a mixture of petrol and diesel. Would you please be able to confirm the mixture ratio and if the seals and gaskets need to be removed where possible to avoid the risk of damage by the solvent mixture?

I have an old genuine SuperJack QARL 24" heavy duty actuator that is siezed. The build quality of the old SuperJack models was supposedly better than the current range so its probably worth a try to loosen it up?
 

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Channel Hopper

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There are no gaskets in the older actuators, other than the one that keeps the connector block , Reed switch and ferrite wheel dry, plus the two above and below the commutator. Take out the two long screws and remove everything with some gentle persuasion, you can make up new gaskets with a template and paper from any decent motorcycle and outlet dealing with pre 80s bikes.

Seals will be what you have photographed, the gearbox clamp arrangement and the cable clamp, all of which should be replaced.

Then find a suitable bit of pond membrane cut so the liquids can remain in them whilst the actuator is sitting in ‘wake’ (cheap offcuts from any carp outlet) and leave for as long as necessary.

I used a dustbin which also contains the engine parts from vintage bikes so I don’t need to economise on the liquid. Turning over regularly as the actuator ends stick out the lid.
 

Channel Hopper

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For the mixture, it is what I have left over in the garage, usually old diesel and fuel from carburettor cleaning and tank refurbishment. At a guess it’s 80:20, probably 70:20:10 with the 10 being debris /silt from the first cleaning.
 

moonbase

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There are no gaskets in the older actuators, other than the one that keeps the connector block , Reed switch and ferrite wheel dry, plus the two above and below the commutator. Take out the two long screws and remove everything with some gentle persuasion, you can make up new gaskets with a template and paper from any decent motorcycle and outlet dealing with pre 80s bikes.

Seals will be what you have photographed, the gearbox clamp arrangement and the cable clamp, all of which should be replaced.

Then find a suitable bit of pond membrane cut so the liquids can remain in them whilst the actuator is sitting in ‘wake’ (cheap offcuts from any carp outlet) and leave for as long as necessary.

I used a dustbin which also contains the engine parts from vintage bikes so I don’t need to economise on the liquid. Turning over regularly as the actuator ends stick out the lid.



Thanks, very useful info, I had not thought about pond membrane.
 

Channel Hopper

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Anything inert will help, for smaller parts use an old glass aquarium.
 
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