Received the wrong Motor from Amazon

davemurgtroyd

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It would be interesting (and perhaps a lot more revealing) to compare the internals of some of these so called "rebadged" versions.
 

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Well I'm not dismantling any of mine!

They work ..... and have endured for several years. I fear for their health if I interfere with them :eek:
 

rolfw

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Channel Hopper

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We've already got a thread with at least a couple of opened motors.

I have the Jaeger version pictured earlier (and I'm sure I have a Technomate badged one as well in the shed). Both work fine even though they were apparently returned to a local supplier as faulty.

I think many of the issues are - as the article mentions - down to specific user installs. Cable runs, receiver design and the type of protocol used (1.2 or 1.3). I would even be so bold as to suggest many do not bother to reset the motor when something goes wrong during unofficial receiver upgrades, or after a pole/dish has shifted in the wind, but then I rarely put these systems up, much less work on behalf of clients that have purchased a satellite 'system' online, then required a ladder monkey to put an untested bunch of components in an inaccessible place with the expectation it will work flawlessly with their remote control input for a minimum of two years.
 

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A pair of 12" T&K should do it.

Does the wall have a suitable southerly aspect?
they are tiles but underneath are solid bricks and facing south.
 

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In which case the 12" T & K will do fine.

Cost around £15-20 delivered but well worth the investment.
 

jeallen01

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they are tiles but underneath are solid bricks and facing south.
Be careful because tiles break very easily under any external pressure - such as tightening the bolts securing T&K brackets. Unfortunately, I would suggest removing any such tiles BEFORE fitting the brackets. OTOH, you could possibly place a piece of flat wood between the tiles and the brackets, and that should distribute the pressure more evenly - but no guarantees that the tiles will still not break!

PS: even trying to drill holes through tiles for the securing bolts is risky - they will fracture very easily!:mad:
 

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Channel Hopper

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they are tiles but underneath are solid bricks and facing south.
P

What is the guttering standoff on the wall that you want to fit the post/dish to ?

A 12" system leaves too much to chance the gutter fouls the post, better go for 18" version, just to be sure.
 

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If it is a south facing wall why does it need mounting above the gutter? That would increase the wind loading on the dish - possibly totally unnecessarily.
 

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@Loquacious
A picture of the wall might help us advise you better.
 

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@Loquacious
A picture of the wall might help us advise you better.

What I thought to do was to take this tiles out( as you can see in the pictures I made a hole for my boiler in summer) and put back again only the size hole on it for the lengths of the brackets.
Is it possible to do that?
Thanks
 

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Mickha

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Is the South facing wall at the rear of the property?
Can you fit a ground mounted system?
Check at dishpointer.com, put in your postcode, select Thor 0.8W, from the drop down satellite box, then zoom in on the map, moving the green icon, to your house, and use the print screen option, on your keyboard, to take a picture and edit it in any photoshop, paint, software.
If you have open, south facing, fields, then a ground mounted satellite system is a lot easier to set up, and maintain.
 

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Is the South facing wall at the rear of the property?
Can you fit a ground mounted system?
Check at dishpointer.com, put in your postcode, select Thor 0.8W, from the drop down satellite box, then zoom in on the map, moving the green icon, to your house, and use the print screen option, on your keyboard, to take a picture and edit it in any photoshop, paint, software.
If you have open, south facing, fields, then a ground mounted satellite system is a lot easier to set up, and maintain.
Yes, south fancing. But as you can see on the pictures above in my thread 73 I have a tree.
 

jeallen01

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Yes, south fancing. But as you can see on the pictures above in my thread 73 I have a tree.
The Tree - How tall and how far away is it from the house wall (or at least from the location where you could fit a ground-mounting pole)?
NB: remember that, with an off-set focus dish, when pointed at Thor (0.8W) the dish face will be pretty-much vertical but the beams from the sats will be coming at an off-set angle from above the horizontal - what that off-set angle is will depend on the dish itself (it should be in the dish specification but is typically around 25 degs).

PS: regarding possibly removing the tiles as per the c/h vent: your photo appears to show that there is un-tiled flat wall below those tiles - could you not mount the dish on the wall there (same tree height/distance issue is pertinent here as well)?
 

Loquacious

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The Tree - How tall and how far away is it from the house wall (or at least from the location where you could fit a ground-mounting pole)?
NB: remember that, with an off-set focus dish, when pointed at Thor (0.8W) the dish face will be pretty-much vertical but the beams from the sats will be coming at an off-set angle from above the horizontal - what that off-set angle is will depend on the dish itself (it should be in the dish specification but is typically around 25 degs).

PS: regarding possibly removing the tiles as per the c/h vent: your photo appears to show that there is un-tiled flat wall below those tiles - could you not mount the dish on the wall there (same tree height/distance issue is pertinent here as well)?
From the wall to the tree, approximately 14 metres .
Regarding to the wall ( tiles ) they are screwed so I can take out and put back with the appropriate wholes on it
My dish is:Dur-Line Select 75/80 - 3 x Test 'Very Good - Aluminum: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics
The second picture above is from the view where I thought to put it.
Thanks
 
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jeallen01

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From the wall to the tree, approximately 14 metres .
Regarding to the wall ( tiles ) they are screwed so I can take out and put back with the appropriate wholes on it
My dish is:Dur-Line Select 75/80 - 3 x Test 'Very Good - Aluminum: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics
The second picture above is from the view where I thought to put it.
Thanks
Thanks , that helps a bit - but approx. how tall is the tree and then a bit of trigonometry is needed to work out how high the dish needs to be from the ground to "see" over the top of the tree?

Ref the dish itself, I can't find the full spec for that and so would have to guess at the off-set angle being around the 25 deg mark but let's say 22 to give some margin for "seeing" the sat beams over the top of the tree.

Ref the tiles - at least that solves the problem of having to drill through them !
 

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Or you could use the Dishpointer.com obstacle checker, and it will work it out for you.
 

Loquacious

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Motor : HD Line DisceqC Motor 50-120 ( apparently a Moteck SG2100A clone)
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4. Receiver: Fortec Star HD Passion Plus ( 2010 )
5. WF 100 cable
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Thanks , that helps a bit - but approx. how tall is the tree and then a bit of trigonometry is needed to work out how high the dish needs to be from the ground to "see" over the top of the tree?

Ref the dish itself, I can't find the full spec for that and so would have to guess at the off-set angle being around the 25 deg mark but let's say 22 to give some margin for "seeing" the sat beams over the top of the tree.

Ref the tiles - at least that solves the problem of having to drill through them !
The tree is about 10 metres tall and is in front of my garden as you could see in the second picture in my previous post.
Thanks
 
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