Are polar mount setup instructions included together with actuator?

[guest poster]

sorry BombedOne... we do make mounts etc..

 

[BombedOne]

You work at that company?

 

[guest poster]

no, but we can make big dish mounts etc. so I know the problems.

 

[BombedOne]

So, you think my design may be weak?

 

[LAURO2008]

a volte riesco a stupire persino io stesso

KingPost may be good, but I can't do such technique by myself - it will require me to bring down the pole from the roof, or use welder directly on the roof, which is prohibited.

hey, your Italian is pretty good! come mai?

 

[guest poster]

So, you think my design may be weak?

I am sure you make it strong for the job BombedOne- it‘s difficult to see from photos…. Thick wall 75mm-100/3 -4“ pipe, good channel iron, good welds etc..
....what size bolts/ threaded bar and how many are bolting it down?

If we do a 2.4m and it is a solid dish it is 150mm / 6 inch pipe schedule 40 for shorter pole and schedule 80 for longer pole .. but that is a lighter C BAND wire mesh dish and the polar mount is designed for what looks like about 75mm -100mm/3-4 inch pipe and the pole isn't too long. I don’t know about KU band mesh on that roof though- never used it.

 

[BombedOne]

Polar mount says that it's designed for 75mm pole, so I had no other choice. Pole length is 1.5m, I'm planning to cut it somewhere at 0.5m height from base, and install balancing plates there.

Regarding threaded bars, I don't know which system this is, but we call them "M8" thread, and use "13" hex key for screwing. Currently there are 4 such bars, but holes are drill for more 4 units to be installed.

After all adjustments will be finished, I'm planning to put some rebar inside that pole, and pour in liquid concrete.

 

[BombedOne]

I've did another drawing, this time 3D, to more simplify understanding of my approach (actual proportions of components aren't preserved on this picture, to allow more simple understanding).

1. First, I'll cut off my pole (yellow on pic) , using grinding machine (most hard part)
2. I'll take pieces (green on pic) of steel sheet sized 15X15cm (what thickness will be optimal? 5mm will be enough or not?)
3. Will weld L shaped steel stripes (pink on pic) to it, to match pole outer diameter (there will be 8 such stripes, not 4 as on pic)
4. These L shaped stripes and pole will be drilled, and apropriate length bolts put trough it, to nicely secure whole construction.
5. I'll repeat such operation for both parts of the pole
6. Next, I'll drill 4 corner holes in both plates, and fit bolts, to have vertical adjustment

what do you think?

 

[guest poster]

....

Regarding threaded bars, I don't know which system this is, but we call them "M8" thread, and use "13" hex key for screwing. Currently there are 4 such bars, but holes are drill for more 4 units to be installed.

4 x 8mm.. I would increase that before you fit the KU mesh... I would get to sleep with 4 x c. 16- 20mm threaded bar... & not same as 8 x m8.

....
After all adjustments will be finished, I'm planning to put some rebar inside that pole, and pour in liquid concrete.

good idea... 75mm can be solid.. depends on wall thickness and steel type but 75mm on solid 2.4 ku and you would have to do something like that too.

would like to see the ku mesh and what that does to the wind loading... obviously the dish will not get that much wind loading with that c band mesh now..

 

[guest poster]

I've did another drawing, this time 3D, to more simplify understanding of my approach (actual proportions of components aren't preserved on this picture, to allow more simple understanding).

1. First, I'll cut off my pole (yellow on pic) , using grinding machine (most hard part)
2. I'll take pieces (green on pic) of steel sheet sized 15X15cm (what thickness will be optimal? 5mm will be enough or not?)
3. Will weld L shaped steel stripes (pink on pic) to it, to match pole outer diameter (there will be 8 such stripes, not 4 as on pic)
4. These L shaped stripes and pole will be drilled, and apropriate length bolts put trough it, to nicely secure whole construction.
5. I'll repeat such operation for both parts of the pole
6. Next, I'll drill 4 corner holes in both plates, and fit bolts, to have vertical adjustment

what do you think?

all sounds good.. but picture not there.. edit... it's there now...

cutting wheels on hand grinders are very good now for cutting quite big steel... (bit dangerous when they shatter though) .. we used to have to cut more with burning torch on site.


edit...

I see drawing now..

have a look at pipe flanges... you can cut and weld 2 on... use spacers to adjust (washers) ... . you could even add bolted bracing later using the flange holes if you needed extra bracing.

 

[BombedOne]

In italiano conosco soltanto il " ciao" , ma poiché devo praticare il surfing molti Web site nelle lingue differenti, sono riuscito ad imparare abbastanza bene l'uso di vario software di traduzione.

The reason I stuck to 8mm bars was quite simple - I needed 50cm length SDS+ drill bit, to go trough whole roof. 10mm dia drill bit of such length is reasonably priced - around $8, but 20mm quickly peaks to $60, which is quite unwise to invest, if considering my one-time usage of it. So 1st I'll try to ask someone, if they can rent/lend me such drill bit.

Regarding Ku band mesh, I've seen it of two shapes, the first one is actually punctured sheet of aluminum, with diameter of holes around 2-3mm. The 2nd one uses fine mesh, but not generic mesh, made from intervowen wires, but one, which is made from solid sheet of metal, using puncturing (almost similar to steel mesh used cover speakers in domestic radios, except that holes are rombic shape, not round).

 

[BombedOne]

The reason I've choosen such strange construction of correction plate is due to fact, that:

1. It's almost impossible to take pole down to place, where I can weld it (huge weight, no helper, no one wants to risk with dealing with such heavy things (about 60kg) at such heights, most people are afraid of height, but I'm not). Of course, I can rent a crane, but this will impair my budget heavily

2. My welder is quite portable, and I can take it to roof, but hardly can use it there - roof is covered with bitum soaked fiberglass - will catch a fire from single spark. I have seen such example at the opposite building - firemans have to use helicopter to deal with fire (we have constant winds here, not too heavy, but very fire assisting).

 

[guest poster]

I think you can get 1m x 16-20mm (or bigger) drills in UK from supermarket cheap... ....crazy world but people go to supermarket for stuff like that now.. good enough for the job .... at engineering supplies they are much better/ industrial quality .. but yes.. much more expensive..

drilling steel can be a bigger problem at 20mm and you can't get cheap 20mm steel drill.. quicker/ easier to burn if you can.

That mesh is really more perforated plate to work for KU so yes the wind loading will increase a lot, especially that high up so yes... increase the strength a lot before you use the KU stuff...

You could keep it as C for now and have a play with it as it is ...

Be careful on that roof eh… 1 second of strong wind with a big KU band panel and you could be hang gliding….

 

[LAURO2008]

Be careful on that roof eh… 1 second of strong wind with a big KU band panel and you could be hang gliding….

@BombedOne: Please, listen to Pedro's advice which is also mine.
SAFETY FIRST .... OK?

When I was installing the most sexi Penta system (in my opinion of course;)) I went on the roof with a trekking equipment

Ciao !!!

 

[BombedOne]

Thanks everyone for care - of course I've done some safety measures ( I have wife, son, they do need me at least ) Also, I have plans to manufacture fencing at that block, to be more safer.