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Satellite TV receivers & systems support forums
DISH SETUP: Single sat, Multi-Sat & Motorised
Are SMW LNBs still considered to be the best?
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<blockquote data-quote="Hitchcock" data-source="post: 191934" data-attributes="member: 196478"><p>Yes, I read your thread about it. <img src="https://www.satellites.co.uk/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/smile.png" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>I too did the same thing you are trying to do now, it was in 1998 and I needed a 2nd LNB output for my new Nokia MM9600. I was initially tricked in to buying a new Universal Twin (Grundig T1, NF: 0.7 d<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite6" alt=":cool:" title="Cool :cool:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":cool:" /> but when I replaced the CM feedhorn + SMW polarizer + SMW XL-800C I had been using for two years, I got a worse picture (and also bad DRO on my Echostar SR8700).</p><p></p><p>I wanted to continue to use the feedhorn that came with the dish + polarizer + top performing LNB, but still be able to operate either receiver independently, so I went for a solution like yours and bought an OMT + 2 LNBs + 2/1 (22 kHz) switch + Master/Slave switch for the two receivers.</p><p></p><p>This setup worked OK on my Echostar as I only needed to set 0/12V (0/22kHz) for polarity, but on my Nokia I soon ran into difficulties. I couldn't swap the pol. and band controls (13/18V and 22 kHz) (even with Dr. Overflow's software) and I was laughed at on the German DVB forums for even contemplating such a feature in the software.</p><p></p><p>It wasn't until later that a guy called M**** Kj******* suggested to me that I use the the SMW Quattro (together with an array of SMW switches <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" />), as that should perform about the same as my old SMW XL-800C Wideband LNB, and it would also emulate a normal Universal LNB on my Nokia. I went with this solution in the end (I got myself a 5/4 multiswitch) and although a couple more cables from the dish (and a termination point for the multiswitch) needed to be installed I have never regretted it since. This is the ultimate professional solution.</p><p></p><p>Also back then (1999), at least as far as I know, this was the only the way to set up a flange (C120) 'Universal LNB' (there were no flange Invacoms, MTIs, Invertos or whatever back then).</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Which model are they?</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Actually, I'm surprised SMW are still selling those old fashioned LNBs and still hanging in there (well, at least their website is still running and Copyright 2005 has now been updated <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" />), they haven't changed a bit since 1995 or earlier, and the Quattro LNB (1998) is still HUGE and rather heavy (I found it to be a bit hilarious when I eventually replaced mine with the feather-weight Invacom — which by the way outperformed the SMW!)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Hitchcock, post: 191934, member: 196478"] Yes, I read your thread about it. :) I too did the same thing you are trying to do now, it was in 1998 and I needed a 2nd LNB output for my new Nokia MM9600. I was initially tricked in to buying a new Universal Twin (Grundig T1, NF: 0.7 dB) but when I replaced the CM feedhorn + SMW polarizer + SMW XL-800C I had been using for two years, I got a worse picture (and also bad DRO on my Echostar SR8700). I wanted to continue to use the feedhorn that came with the dish + polarizer + top performing LNB, but still be able to operate either receiver independently, so I went for a solution like yours and bought an OMT + 2 LNBs + 2/1 (22 kHz) switch + Master/Slave switch for the two receivers. This setup worked OK on my Echostar as I only needed to set 0/12V (0/22kHz) for polarity, but on my Nokia I soon ran into difficulties. I couldn't swap the pol. and band controls (13/18V and 22 kHz) (even with Dr. Overflow's software) and I was laughed at on the German DVB forums for even contemplating such a feature in the software. It wasn't until later that a guy called M**** Kj******* suggested to me that I use the the SMW Quattro (together with an array of SMW switches :D), as that should perform about the same as my old SMW XL-800C Wideband LNB, and it would also emulate a normal Universal LNB on my Nokia. I went with this solution in the end (I got myself a 5/4 multiswitch) and although a couple more cables from the dish (and a termination point for the multiswitch) needed to be installed I have never regretted it since. This is the ultimate professional solution. Also back then (1999), at least as far as I know, this was the only the way to set up a flange (C120) 'Universal LNB' (there were no flange Invacoms, MTIs, Invertos or whatever back then). Which model are they? Actually, I'm surprised SMW are still selling those old fashioned LNBs and still hanging in there (well, at least their website is still running and Copyright 2005 has now been updated :D), they haven't changed a bit since 1995 or earlier, and the Quattro LNB (1998) is still HUGE and rather heavy (I found it to be a bit hilarious when I eventually replaced mine with the feather-weight Invacom — which by the way outperformed the SMW!) [/QUOTE]
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DISH SETUP: Single sat, Multi-Sat & Motorised
Are SMW LNBs still considered to be the best?
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