Bargain Second-Hand Big Dishes For Sale

Tururu

Thanks for the info, and I had already planned to take some easing/penetrating fluid with me (as well as a number of other tools) and to give all the bolts a good spray before I try to loosen them.
 
gap30 said:
On my 1.5m gibby the ubolts/screws annoyed me that much I cut them and currently use stainless steel 8mm threaded rod from toolstation instead with doubled upped nuts/washers each end

Stainless Steel Threaded Bar M8 x 1m
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Hope I don't have to use that approach, but, if I do, then I might also need some "connecting nuts " like these (from Screwfix). They are very handy for joining "things" together - like I did when I modified one of those small folding trolleys to prevent the wheels buckling inwards (lost the original pic of that but it's shown here in my "reader review" of the trolley on Amazon).
 
I cut my U bolts on my OP100L as they would hit the STAB HH-100, they have rusted where I cut them so they are not stainless, must just be galvanised or coated.
 
I'll watch out for that interference issue - and try to avoid having to cut those U-bolts on the 125!
 
Just picked the Gilbertini from the chap (Patrick - a very nice guy who has lost interest in sat stuff) in West Drayton. To my (very pleased) surprise, he had already dismounted the dish from the stand and dismantled the latter, and removed the motor (must admit I had missed that there was a motor because it was not mentioned in the listing and not very obvious in the pics).

All we had to then do was to unbolt the dish from the mount and remove the feedarms - again, I had missed that it is the dual feedarm version because the 2nd one is hardly visible in the photos.

No real trouble with any of the bolts so far - except that the LNB clamp screw is distinctly "tight" so that will need some penetrating fluid and maybe a bit of heat if I don't want to break anything.

The motor will probably need the same sort of treatment as it's a Stab HH120 with a lot of surface corrosion on the casing, which is aluminium/alloy - not intending to use it but might as well clean it up in case anyone else wants it.

The stand is in 3 pieces and is in v.g.c because it's galvanised - anyone have any idea of roughly what it might be worth because I have no use (or space) for it?
 
jeallen01 said:
Just picked the Gilbertini from the chap (Patrick - a very nice guy who has lost interest in sat stuff) in West Drayton. To my (very pleased) surprise, he had already dismounted the dish from the stand and dismantled the latter, and removed the motor (must admit I had missed that there was a motor because it was not mentioned in the listing and not very obvious in the pics).

All we had to then do was to unbolt the dish from the mount and remove the feedarms - again, I had missed that it is the dual feedarm version because the 2nd one is hardly visible in the photos.

No real trouble with any of the bolts so far - except that the LNB clamp screw is distinctly "tight" so that will need some penetrating fluid and maybe a bit of heat if I don't want to break anything.

The motor will probably need the same sort of treatment as it's a Stab HH120 with a lot of surface corrosion on the casing, which is aluminium/alloy - not intending to use it but might as well clean it up in case anyone else wants it.

The stand is in 3 pieces and is in v.g.c because it's galvanised - anyone have any idea of roughly what it might be worth because I have no use (or space) for it?
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Sounds like you had a very good deal! And always good when the seller is helpful.

I wouldn't worry about the surface corrosion on that STAB they all do that and its harmless.

What size pole does the stand take? I'm going to mount another dish in the garden :oops:
 
@RustySpoons

The pole is 60mm diameter X 1.05m high (from the lower side of the base.), and is part of the " Inverted T" shaped centre section, of which the horizontal width is approx 0.95m . Then there are the two rectangular frames which bolt onto either side the horizontal part of the centre sectrion - each of those is approx 0.95m X 0.48m.

Thus the whole thing is about 0.95m X 0.95m X 1.05m high - and I was offered the 4x small paving slabs which fitted into the square "holes" as shown in the photos, but declined to take those!

Big as those pieces are, they all fitted into the rear of the Octavia estate without having to tip the rear seats forward - although the dish had to be tied down on the roof rails.
 
jeallen01 said:
...The stand is in 3 pieces and is in v.g.c because it's galvanised - anyone have any idea of roughly what it might be worth because I have no use (or space) for it?
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The value of the stand (NPRM type) depends on the diameter of the pole, they generally come with a 2" or 3" pole.

Edit: I see your reply indicating it is a 60mm diameter pole.

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moonbase said:
The value of the stand (NPRM type) depends on the diameter of the pole, they generally come with a 2" or 3" pole.

Edit: I see your reply indicating it is a 60mm diameter pole.

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Correct, and OK for the STAB motor mount clamp because that was what was fitted to it - Thus I suppose that the brand new price (whatever that was) was somewhere a bit above that for something similar, but with a 42mm or 50mm pole. Will look into that - but around £70 -£100 sounds (+ carriage) looks about the new price for one of those, although of course this would be secondhand and thus cheaper!
(BTW - am shocked by the prices for some of the larger 76mm pole versions on the Satellite Superstore site - upto £350!!! - for what is, after all, a few bits of cut "angle-iron", and a section of steel tube, welded together! )
 
jeallen01 said:
The motor will probably need the same sort of treatment as it's a Stab HH120 with a lot of surface corrosion on the casing, which is aluminium/alloy - not intending to use it but might as well clean it up in case anyone else wants it.
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A33 was asking about a Stab earlier, for parts.

This Is News To Me. Stab HH100

Thanks, RustySpoons. I will check that. Also the collector pin of transistor Q2 seems to have been hot (it's a bit blackened). Could that part of the circuit have something to do with the burning of R20, too? Photos of my circuit board with burnt R20 can be seen at the dutch forum: STAB HH100...
www.satellites.co.uk www.satellites.co.uk

Rather than send it to Holland perhaps you could take the lid off and make some component measurement and characteristics for him.

Take some images of it anyway, in particular the sticker and other identifying marks. It would be interesting to know the serial number and date of sale to Patrick, to verify if it has also been languishing about for a decade after it was manufactured.
 
Channel Hopper said:
A33 was asking about a Stab earlier, for parts....
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I'd want to see if it actually still works before deciding if/how to dispose of it. Will take some pics of the sticker and post them.

PS: PM'd you about the Gilbertini
 
I don't think you should dispose of it as it could be useful (though you already have reliable motors on your setup and I have a shedload of spares). Just take some pictures and then look inside for A33.
 
Pics of the STAB below (having cleaned it up a bit with a flapdisk on a drill)

However, will wait until you come over before opening it up as you know better what to look for
 

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Thanks. That does look corroded, I will pop over next week.
 
Channel Hopper said:
Thanks. That does look corroded, I will pop over next week.
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That's after 20 mins with the flapdisk - was a lot more grungy when I started!

PS: what can anyone make of the S/N ("120401086") in terms of the age of the motor?
 
Channel Hopper said:
A33 was asking about a Stab earlier, for parts.
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Well yes, I have a circuit board of the HH100 with a faulty IC, so I'm looking for a replacement circuit board.

But I don't know if the HH120 has the same board as the HH100.
From pictures on the internet I know the HH90 is different.

But if your HH120 is not broken, keep it intact! Good motor for heavier dishes, although slooooowwww.

Greetz,
A33
 
@A33
When CH is here (probably Wednesday) we will aim to see if the HH120 still works before opening it to take a look at the circuit board and try to identify the IC on it.
 
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