Advice Needed is the "golden interstar alpha x" the same as an octagon sx88 under the hood?

[Manikm909]

does anyone know if this STB is the same as octagone sx88....it appears to be, from what ive read?

same software \ spec, but different badge?

thanks

 

[ozumo]

same software \ spec, but different badge?

I believe that is correct.

 

[Manikm909]

although this means for us Octagon SF8008 owners that might want an "SX88" as a secondary receiver for blind scans \ tests \ iptv, in place and switched on, we could get this instead.....interesting.

 

[ozumo]

Almost certain that you'd still have the remote control issue. Primo & SX88 remotes are interchangeable.

 

[Manikm909]

took a chance, received mine today, and thankfully, NO, the remote control unit does NOT control the sf8008 (or vice versa) - so all good!!

finally - can run both boxes (sf8008 \ golden interstar alpha) at same time

(the remote on the golden looks exact same as octagon sf8008 old "clicky" style remote)

 

[william-1]

The golden interstar alpha x has a very poor remote that let's it down,
The SX88+ has a reasonable quality remote but the SX88+Optima has an excellent remote so I use this on all the SX88+ range as they use the same codes,
Shame about alpha x remote,
I have tried cleaning the insides & it lasts for a few days then the keys stop responding so the alpha x now lives in the receiver cupboard

 

[Manikm909]

no difference in the remotes at all.

here shows all 3 models - Alphax X, SF8008, and SX88

 

[Lazarus]

The golden interstar alpha x has a very poor remote that let's it down,
The SX88+ has a reasonable quality remote but the SX88+Optima has an excellent remote so I use this on all the SX88+ range as they use the same codes,
Shame about alpha x remote,
I have tried cleaning the insides & it lasts for a few days then the keys stop responding so the alpha x now lives in the receiver cupboard

Double-edged sword, cleaning remotes: Get too enthusiastic and it's easy enough to further degrade the conductive carbon on the business end of the buttons! Best just to clean the contact tracks on the PCB.

 

[william-1]

Yes I found that out a few years back

 

[ozumo]

Tin foil stuck on with double sided tape on the underside of the button works. It's fiddly but I did the volume & AV buttons on a TV remote a few years ago and it still works. Also did a whole Echostar AD3000IP remote but the box died within a couple of hours

 

[Lazarus]

Yes, I have that in mind for one or two of my ageing Telecommanders.

 

[william-1]

When I realised the damage I was doing with the isoproplyene & cotton buds damaging the carbon on the flexible button side so I bought a kit to replace the carbon this worked OK for a while with my Yamaha Amp remote but after a while the volume control went to maximum as the carbon wore off
Not wanting to pay £85 for a new remote I ordered a substitute remote control for £24 there is a learning curve as you have to learn that Shift 8 = is Optical-1 & Shift-9 is Optical-2 ect.

 

[Channel Hopper]

I use a 2B pencil.

 

[Lazarus]

I use a 2B pencil.

The mind boggles

 

[Lazarus]

I use a 2B pencil.

Just tried that - with a degree of success: Restored Vol Up/Down on the Boudoir HiFi, but Power On/Off button is goosed (The PCB tracks also appear carbon coated and are visibly worn. They are too narrow to coat with graphite without causing a permanent short!).

Fortunately pressing any button brings Power On - I'll just have to keep kicking SWMBO out of bed to turn the Amp off manually (or should that be womanually?)

 

[Channel Hopper]

I draw the graphite on the underside of the button as opposed to the tracks.

 

[Lazarus]

I draw the graphite on the underside of the button as opposed to the tracks.

Yes, I know. But, having done that successfully, I discovered the tracks for the Power On/Off button have suffered from loss of their own coating. So the newly recoated button hasn't got a sufficiently conductive track partner to enable it to work.

(I've edited my earlier Post to clarify!)

 

[dmaavrigdo]

Yes, I know. But, having done that successfully, I discovered the tracks for the Power On/Off button have suffered from loss of their own coating. So the newly recoated button hasn't got a sufficiently conductive track partner to enable it to work.

(I've edited my earlier Post to clarify!)

Clean the PCB pads with the pencil eraser. Any "coating" you see shouldn't be there.

 

[Lazarus]

Clean the PCB pads with the pencil eraser. Any "coating" you see shouldn't be there.

I tried that too. The unit is twenty years old and very well used, so I think it has done good service!

Probably not worth further attention - and I can work around it anyway.

 

[ozumo]

I've tried pencil a few times, it never lasted very long, perhaps my technique is lacking.