Monoblocks on a multi sat dish.

Looking like a proper set up now Pete.:)
 
hello to all,
does anyone have any info on the fte clamp 0701116?
i went to their site and could not find it.
thanks
ralph
 
Ralph,

If you go onto the FTE site, click on 'online catalogue' and they're at the bottom of page 18, under the multifocus heading. Model numbers MFU and MF3U (for three lnb's)
 
ralphmagno said:
hello to all,
does anyone have any info on the fte clamp 0701116?
i went to their site and could not find it.
thanks
ralph
Click to expand...
_http://www.ftemaximal.com/espanol/productos2.php?idt=2&idss=16&idp=722&num=1&idserie=17
 
Latest developments : The LNB's and switches to finish off the project arrived yesterday and I spent Wednesday afternoon and this morning getting the LNB's mounted and roughly positioned. On the 60cm dish they're just about spot on but the 8 on the TD88 need some refining (mainly skew) and the elevation of the bar needs sorting too. The seperate oval dish for 30°W is obviously finalised.

On the 60cm photo we have (L to R) 23.5°E, 13°E, 9°E, 5°E (centre), 0.8°W and 5°W. On the TD88 photo, (L to R) 45°E, 42°E, 39°E, 36°E, 28°E (centre), 26°E, 19.2°E and 16°E. I've used Black Ultras on 26° & 16° but the latter is a real swine to get set up properly. Other than that 9° & 0.8° are coupled to 5° using 40mm pipe clamps with a similar arrangement joining 45° & 42° and 28° & 26°. Luckily in the bag with the Triax bar I got two extra LNB holders (so seven instead of five). It's just as well as one of them has developed a crack while fitting an LNB.

Now I need to plan out the switching and how to house it neatly in a sealable box (think large Tupperware container) mounted on one of the wall brackets. Oh and some cable might be handy too!! I was thinking of using 17PatC or 17VatC. Any suggestions as to which?
 

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sonnetpete said:
Now I need to plan out the switching
Click to expand...
How many LNBs are there altogether? I make it 16 (45E, 42E, 39E, 36E, 28E, 26E, 23E, 19E, 16E, 13E, 9E, 1W, 5W, 30W and the motorised). Is that right?

And what switches did you buy?
 
Huevos said:
How many LNBs are there altogether? I make it 16 (45E, 42E, 39E, 36E, 28E, 26E, 23E, 19E, 16E, 13E, 9E, 1W, 5W, 30W and the motorised). Is that right?
Click to expand...

Yes, 16 including the motorised.

Huevos said:
And what switches did you buy?
Click to expand...

Oh dear, I was afraid you'd ask. I have this feeling I've got this wrong.......Four Vantage VT-DS4/1HQ feeding a Spaun SUR 420 WSG
 
sonnetpete said:
I have this feeling I've got this wrong.......Four Vantage VT-DS4/1HQ feeding a Spaun SUR 420 WSG
Click to expand...
Sounds good to me. If you are ever going to go beyond 16 you would need another Spaun. You could have gone for 5 Spaun SUR 420 but at 50€ a piece that works out a few bob.

Personally I'd make a spreadsheet so you can keep track of your LNBs and how to address them.
 
Huevos said:
Sounds good to me. If you are ever going to go beyond 16 you would need another Spaun. You could have gone for 5 Spaun SUR 420 but at 50€ a piece that works out a few bob.
Click to expand...

Yes I realise that expansion would need another Spaun, but the budget dictated that, (a) I stopped at 16 LNB's and (b) that I couldn't go for Spaun totally. The Vantage switches weren't the cheapest at €10 each but I figured they should have a reasonable build quality.

Huevos said:
Personally I'd make a spreadsheet so you can keep track of your LNBs
Click to expand...

I can try but spreadsheets and me don't normally mix (I think I'm disnumeric)

Huevos said:
....and how to address them.
Click to expand...

Normally I just shout 'Oi you' at them, whilst affecting an uncouth tone.

Oh, after some research, I'm obtaining some 17VatC cable. I really only need 40-50 metres, which bought by the metre is €0.59. However, I can buy a 100 metre roll for €49, which may make more sense. After all I need some in reserve for future projects.......no, no more, definitely this is the finish..............................................but I do have space for a 1.8M dish.:eek:
 
A bit of progress. The cable arrived and I've made up a new fly lead for my meter with it and replaced the LNB to motor cable on the 1.2M dish. (New cable increased AGC by 3%-4%)

Yesterday I paid €7.50 for three lidded plastic storage boxes for the switches (turns out I only need two but it's always good to have a spare) I've managed to fit the Vantage 4/1's into one box and just need to drill holes for cable access in the bottom. I hope to place the box on the bottom pole bracket with another box containing the Spaun 4/1 underneath somehow. I know it's a bit OTT as the switches are waterproof but I'm trying to do a neat job :):)
 

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Those boxes look little bit bulky, however they will perfectly do job. Another option for box would be box for nuts&bolts (attached picture), only need to remove all the internal walls. I made my diseqc-box out of waterproof plywood with plastic lid.
 

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The boxes are 340mm X 200mm X 120mm (with the lid closed). I wanted something that would fit between the wall and the pole and allow me to open a hinged lid. I could have searched for something like your tool box and fitted it upright but those sort of things are more expensive than buying storage boxes. If I lived nearer to a large city I would have had more choice but sadly, Ikea in Rennes is a three hour round trip. I'm sure these will be fine and if not, I haven't broken the bank (in fact I could have bought eight for less than the price of a Latvian beer).
 
One question: If you decide to change positions of 2 wires in the box, than what will you do? Open main lid, unscrew switches, change wires, tighten switches back and close lid?
I think there will still be nets of wires around when you open lid and see only wires :confused:
P.S. I do not think Latvian beer is so expensive! :eek:
 
Careful those boxes don't turn in to mini-greenhouses and cook the switches. :eek:
 
@ Rima : Well yes, if I had to that's probably what I'd do but I'm not sure why I'd have to if it was all working ok. I'd hope to get it all set up and switching properly first.

@ Timo : That hadn't actually occurred to me but they will be hidden behind the dishes. Maybe it would be a good idea to drill some ventilation holes. Actually I was a little concerned about the switches freezing up during the Winter, which is one of the reasons I decided to enclose them. Luckily we don't have real extremes of temperatures.
 
sonnetpete said:
Luckily in the bag with the Triax bar I got two extra LNB holders (so seven instead of five). It's just as well as one of them has developed a crack while fitting an LNB.
Click to expand...
That bar you have on the Triax looks very long ,I've normally only seen bars that support a 20 degree span.
Is it a special one ?
 
As far as I'm aware it's a Triax made bar specifically for 5 LNB's. I bought it from Amazon France,

_http://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B004Y62GTE/ref=oss_product

Don't forget, I've stuck an extra LNB on one end which may make it look a little longer. If it has a fault it's the lack of elevation adjustment for sats at either end. I.E. 42°E will be fine but 16°E will be too low or the opposite will apply. I've modified the bar holder to get more of a slant on the bar but I have seen similar Triax bars where they've been attacked with a hacksaw and given more of a bend. Not that I'll be doing that!!
 
sonnetpete said:
As far as I'm aware it's a Triax made bar specifically for 5 LNB's. I bought it from Amazon France,

_http://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B004Y62GTE/ref=oss_product

Don't forget, I've stuck an extra LNB on one end which may make it look a little longer. If it has a fault it's the lack of elevation adjustment for sats at either end. I.E. 42°E will be fine but 16°E will be too low or the opposite will apply. I've modified the bar holder to get more of a slant on the bar but I have seen similar Triax bars where they've been attacked with a hacksaw and given more of a bend. Not that I'll be doing that!!
Click to expand...
Thanks Pete
I have seen a number of people mention the limitation of the triax multibar due to the the lack of elevation adjustment for sats at either end of the bar.
Seems to be due to the target area for design being Germany and central europe where the bar doesnt need to tilt as much.
 
Fano said:
.......Seems to be due to the target area for design being Germany and central europe where the bar doesnt need to tilt as much.
Click to expand...

Strange, as the last time I visited Austria, I seem to remember the bar tilting a lot, especially after one or two steins!!

Seriously, I am trying for a near 30° spread so it's understandable that the bar isn't that flexible. Just need some ingenuity.
 
3 degree seperation seems to be easily achievable on the TD88 ?
 
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