Just Sharing This My Channel Master 1.8 project.

[Manikm909]

Hey guys - following up what @moonbase suggested, am starting my own project thread / restoration.

Obviously, recently travelled 500 miles to get this:

Channel master 1.8 with jack an mounts

Is this 1.8 channel master with jacks of any interest to anyone ? £300 SOLD Leeds / Wakefield area pick up or possible delivery if price is right,

www.satellites.co.uk

Today, i took the motors off the polar mount, and will be cleaning up the polar mount in the next few days.

I also tested both actuators, i actually wasn't expecting the jacks to work, but the grey one did! as rusty as it is - bonus.

I've got sand and cement ready for the base to be built which i should be able todo over the next few weeks....hopefully.

Cleaned up the dish - forgot to add - had a bit of an accident with the dish, had to do a fibre glass repair job, but it came out nice. Will be painting it dark green soon.

 

[Channel Hopper]

Hey guys - following up what @moonbase suggested, am starting my own project thread / restoration.

Obviously, recently travelled 500 miles to get this:

Channel master 1.8 with jack an mounts

Is this 1.8 channel master with jacks of any interest to anyone ? £300 SOLD Leeds / Wakefield area pick up or possible delivery if price is right,

www.satellites.co.uk

Today, i took the motors off the polar mount, and will be cleaning up the polar mount in the next few days.

I also tested both actuators, i actually wasn't expecting the jacks to work, but the grey one did! as rusty as it is - bonus.

I've got sand and cement ready for the base to be built which i should be able todo over the next few weeks....hopefully.

Cleaned up the dish - forgot to add - had a bit of an accident with the dish, had to do a fibre glass repair job, but it came out nice. Will be painting it dark green soon.

Holy cow !

Was it on the Mary Rose ?

 

[Manikm909]

lol - possibly or the titanic.

 

[moonbase]

The rust should clean off easily enough with a wire cup brush in a drill or one of those wire wheels in an angle grinder.

 

[Terryl]

Rust-oleum makes a good rust dissolver, once done with that, then use some Corroseal to convert the remaining rust to ferric sulfate, then a good coat of paint, this will keep it from rusting up again.

I used some of the Corroseal on the house boat,(quite a bit) never rusted in those spots again.

You can find the Corroseal at...


CASE CHEMICAL

Unit 731 Ampress Lane
Lymington, Hampshire SO41
United Kingdom
44 (0) 1590 675849

 

[Manikm909]

Rust-oleum makes a good rust dissolver, once done with that, then use some Corroseal to convert the remaining rust to ferric sulfate, then a good coat of paint, this will keep it from rusting up again.

I used some of the Corroseal on the house boat,(quite a bit) never rusted in those spots again.

You can find the Corroseal at...


CASE CHEMICAL

Unit 731 Ampress Lane
Lymington, Hampshire SO41
United Kingdom
44 (0) 1590 675849

i've gone for a similar but much CHEAPER solution
"Rustins Rust Converter"

 

[Lazarus]

i've gone for a similar but much CHEAPER solution
"Rustins Rust Converter"

Kurust is my "go to" tincture.

 

[Manikm909]

ARGH!!!!!
So ive planned the day to work on this polar mount.
All ready and in good spirits...until i hit a snag.
I cannot get the PIVOT bolt out.
The bolt, must have rusted/welded itself to the structure - not sure if the inside "barrel" is threaded, or just a hole - could just whack it>?
I say this, because if i use my power wrench and set it clockwise/anti clock - the polar mount moves with it, rather than the central pivot bolt turning inside it so i can remove it.
Ive tried heating with heat gun (not blow lamp) - gallons of wd40 - but it cannot get in where it needs to get probably.
And now im on here, asking for help, lol
i dont want to risk sheering the bold head off so thought id take some advice here.
pics attached

 

[Channel Hopper]

WD40 is not a release agent, Plusgas is better.

Cheaper solution is to soak in petrol/diesel mix for a few days, then put a nut on the end and hit with good sized sledgehammer.

 

[moonbase]

I cant see that sleeve/barrel being threaded but am not absolutely 100% on that.

If I were you I would heat the bítch up good style with a blow torch then protect the threaded end with a nut as suggested by CH and give the nut a reet good whack with a hammer.
If there is not enough visible thread to get a nut on and leave a gap for movement, cover the thread on the end with a bit of wood and whack the wood with a vengeance.

Repeat until solved...

 

[purplemarina]

If you decide to whack it ! fit the nut so you hit that not the thread. (i know ive just repeated what ch said brain didnt see it first time) worth saying twice ! if the thread does get damaged, when you remove the nut it normally sorts it out.

 

[Manikm909]

thanks everyone!

ive heated it - but only have heat gun, didnt want to whack in case the barrel was threaded...i cant see it being threaded either.

i also realise WD40 isnt a release agent, but its all i have\had.

having a rest - thanks for the suggestions!!!

 

[John]

I cant see that sleeve/barrel being threaded but am not absolutely 100% on that.

If I were you I would heat the bítch up good style with a blow torch then protect the threaded end with a nut as suggested by CH and give the nut a reet good whack with a hammer.
If there is not enough visible thread to get a nut on and leave a gap for movement, cover the thread on the end with a bit of wood and whack the wood with a vengeance.

Repeat until solved...

>"whack the wood with a vengeance."<
.. Can't take you anywhere !!

 

[Manikm909]

its beaten me for now - im not gonna spend all day on it. i was looking forward to stripping it and painting it. ffs.
i also dont wanna risk rounding off the bolt head - so need some reflection time.

some progress, the mount now moves very freely, so somethings happened with all my efforts. it was stiff as anything at the beginning. the bolt now just rocks with the mount on the pivot and WILL NOT BUDGE!
im sure it will need replacing afterwards if it ever comes out as its starting to round, but torq wrench still grips it, cannot risk spanner

 

[jeallen01]

If you have the tools, cut a slot right through the bolt head down to the surface of the metal against which it's seated and then use a cold chisel and a large hammer to slice the top right off - could do the same with a reciprocating saw and a "wrecking" blade (Dewalt blades are very good!) - and finally hammer the now-bare threaded end of the bolt through the mounting.

That's a fairly common approach when confronted with rusty & damaged bolts on vehicles!

 

[moonbase]

If you have the tools, cut a slot right through the bolt head down to the surface of the metal against which it's seated and then use a cold chisel and a large hammer to slice the top right off - could do the same with a reciprocating saw and a "wrecking" blade (Dewalt blades are very good!) - and finally hammer the now-bare threaded end of the bolt through the mounting.

That's a fairly common approach when confronted with rusty & damaged bolts on vehicles!

Yeah, you just gotta give it some reet welly, no point wimping out, man up and whack the bítch hard from either end.
It probably needs direct flame heat, and a good dose of it. Them hot air guns are just hair dressers toys for these type of jobs.

If you want to fetch it over here I will blast it with a flame gun and whack it with a 5lb club hammer, that bolt soon be flying across my patio red hot !

 

[wium78]

Cut off bolt head and knock out bolt from that end.Replace with new bolt.

 

[ozumo]

If a large persuader doesn't work take it to a friendly garage and ask them to try it on their hydraulic press. A wheel brace and a scaffold pole is another option.

PS please don't use a torque wrench or anything with a ratchet to undo tight bolts, if the mechanism fails you could do yourself a nasty injury.

 

[jeallen01]

... A wheel brace and a scaffold pole is another option....

Or in my case, decades ago. when one of my lodgers' boyfriend's Maxi needed a new front balljoint but one of the wheel nuts wouldn't come off to remove the wheel to get to that, it took a sliding "T- bar", 8ft of very strong steel pipe and a LOT of "grunt" to loosen it - but, by that time the nut was pretty damaged and so I left to the boyfriend to chisel & split the rest of it off (after I demonstrated what he had to do)

 

[Channel Hopper]

It does look as though it will fit into a fly press, but lots of lubrication regardless.