Advice Needed Receivers with the lowest Symbol Rate?

[rodscha]

Crazyscan also will require plugins ...such as TSreader and VLC ..
Crazyscan scans for transponders and locks on if sufficient signal strength...TS reader interprets the transponder contents if any found ...and VLC will display any video content found.
..and yes it is very much a 'sport'....
rgds and happy hunting.

I have no experience with Linux but it should work if you have the appropriate software versions....
I use windows
not out of choice it's what I know.

Crazyscan also will require plugins ...such as TSreader and VLC ..
Crazyscan scans for transponders and locks on if sufficient signal strength...TS reader interprets the transponder contents if any found ...and VLC will display any video content found.
..and yes it is very much a 'sport'....
rgds and happy hunting.

I have no experience with Linux but it should work if you have the appropriate software versions....
I use windows
not out of choice it's what I know

 

[rodscha]

sorry got popups ,explaining why double message. Thanks for giving me this view.
So for a few hundred £ and some work,I ll get a much more sensitive reception of sat TPS and thez streams,but not HEVC...
1 example,the Albanian mux is too weak for my XComag fta receiver. With the TBS card ,they ll come in clear... and some others like the African beam on 2.9East? and the streams from Italy on 5W/9E?

 

[Vipersan]

sorry got popups ,explaining why double message. Thanks for giving me this view.
So for a few hundred £ and some work,I ll get a much more sensitive reception of sat TPS and thez streams,but not HEVC...
1 example,the Albanian mux is too weak for my XComag fta receiver. With the TBS card ,they ll come in clear... and some others like the African beam on 2.9East? and the streams from Italy on 5W/9E?

Obviously I can't know what satellites and transponders can be obtained at your location ...but the TBS cards are sensitive to lower signal strengths and function at lower SR.

 

[Flippi]

so...i need. the TBS6983 card? Connected to my computer... and the dish via cable to an FTA receiver? or a Linux one?

Using TBS PCIe-card? Connect dish to card > watch on PC-screen (VLC, Potplayer, Mpv, etc...).
Using receiver? Connect dish to receiver > watch on TV-screen.

the Albanian mux is too weak for my XComag fta receiver. With the TBS card ,they ll come in clear...

If a signal is too weak, you rather need a larger dish.

 

[Vipersan]

Perhaps not quite as good a fit as the first one..though a bit of tweaking will fix em..
Got a bit sick of bringing all my tools indoors every 15 minutes....but here is the result.
still have the m6 holes to drill in the copper....but that can wait.
Time to get the kettle on..
lol

 

[rodscha]

Now I understand much better. A new field to explore .
Thank you Flippi and Vipersan for all these shiny lights!

 

[Vipersan]

Just enough time between showers to drill the M6 holes in the copper..
thats all she wrote for today..
cest la vie

 

[Channel Hopper]

Christina needs your attention.

Tie her up first

 

[Vipersan]

She will have to wait CH ....for decent weather to coincide with my mate having time to help me.
In the meantime I'll get done the jobs I can do whilst dodging in and out between showers.
doh !
Had a fair bit of wind today here....so no slackening of bolts whilst those westerlies persist.

 

[satesco]

...

I have no experience with Linux but it should work if you have the appropriate software versions....
I use windows
not out of choice it's what I know.

Indeed, you can scan and lock onto the signal on these Radio Amateur TV sub-band muxes using the neumoDVB app on Linux. This also applies to the 6983 card, especially on these low symbol-rate muxes.

 

[Vipersan]

Today I figured I'd tackle the missing edge brackets for the dish..
Drilled the m8 holes before anything else ..then marked and rough cut a piece of timber with a jigsaw to follow the curve of the dish rim.
pilot drilled five holes to align with the M8 holes into the wooden curve....then using stock 3mm aluminium screwed it to the curved surface..
I dont know at this point how much return spring I will get when I release the wood screws...so my question to anyone familiar with aluminium..
Anneal or not to Anneal that is the question ?
Cold bending will most likely retain strength and if anything work harden the ally bar....whereas annealing will make it soft and more pliable thus less brittle.
I could just tap and gently work harden the bar whilst screwed down ?
All advice is most welcome..
rgds

 

[Channel Hopper]

I don't think aluminium can be easily annealed outdoors and up a ladder, you need it to be at least 370 degrees before it changes maleability, by then the paint will have gone and your blowtorch empty.

You could fabricate multiple brackets to keep the reflector in shape after shakedown and stringing

 

[Vipersan]

I wouldn't be annealing on the dish CH ..the brackets would be made indoors and presented to the dish when curved since they simply bolt on..

 

[Channel Hopper]

For a 1.8 m radius I would just bolt them from the panel joins and work upwards, they should bend without trouble but don't forget there will be a three dimensional angle to align with. Best make multiple bolt holes in a similar curvature.

 

[Vipersan]

For a 1.8 m radius I would just bolt them from the panel joins and work upwards, they should bend without trouble but don't forget there will be a three dimensional angle to align with. Best make multiple bolt holes in a similar curvature.

All those things will be taken into consideration Stephen.
What I know so far is this.
Screwing down to the wooden former produced no curve deformation when released...still a flat bar it just sprung back as expected.
Did some more tweaking to the former and offered it up to the dish edge.
Pretty damned close at this point
Maybe a bit more rasping needed.
Question ?
Would a domestic oven get hot enough ..
My thinking is the heat would dissipate over the aluminium more evenly than a blow torch.
I am considering throwing the whole thing ...bar and former in there then allowing it to cool in ambient air (no quenching)...
Thoughts on this would be appreciated.

 

[Vipersan]

All those things will be taken into consideration Stephen.
What I know so far is this.
Screwing down to the wooden former produced no curve deformation when released...still a flat bar it just sprung back as expected.
Did some more tweaking to the former and offered it up to the dish edge.
Pretty damned close at this point
Maybe a bit more rasping needed.
Question ?
Would a domestic oven get hot enough ..
My thinking is the heat would dissipate over the aluminium more evenly than a blow torch.
I am considering throwing the whole thing ...bar and former in there then allowing it to cool in ambient air (no quenching)...
Thoughts on this would be appreciated.

apparently the oven is a no go....according to google.
so blow torch it is...

Ok the ally strip was annealed using the Sharpie/Blowtorch method ..now screwed hard down to the pine former....and it's coffee time here.
just gotta keep the job out of reach of my inquisitive cat whilst it cools fully.
results later.

 

[Channel Hopper]

apparently the oven is a no go....according to google.
so blow torch it is...

Ok the ally strip was annealed using the Sharpie/Blowtorch method ..now screwed hard down to the pine former....and it's coffee time here.
just gotta keep the job out of reach of my inquisitive cat whilst it cools fully.
results later.

What is the strip minimum dimension (bendy bit ?)

Also you have five drilled holes, not six (three for each panel)

Perhaps I am missing something, is this/these are to go around the edge ?

 

[Vipersan]

The short curved plate has originally 2 holes roughly 11mm apart...and fit much like the wooden former offered up to the dish edge.
There are 2 curved plates on this strip which are yet to be cut off.
It seemed prudent to make both plates in one go before seperating them.....but the strip isn't long enough for the 3rd edge bracket and so I will have to repeat the process for bracket 3.
The middle hole isn't relevant beyond forming.
hope that makes sense CH
I have left the brackets long enough for extra holes to be drilled in situe if needed for extra rigidity.

These photos should make it clearer.
rgds

 

[Channel Hopper]

The short curved plate has originally 2 holes roughly 11mm apart...and fit much like the wooden former offered up to the dish edge.
There are 2 curved plates on this strip which are yet to be cut off.
It seemed prudent to make both plates in one go before seperating them.....but the strip isn't long enough for the 3rd edge bracket and so I will have to repeat the process for bracket 3.
The middle hole isn't relevant beyond forming.
hope that makes sense CH
I have left the brackets long enough for extra holes to be drilled in situe if needed for extra rigidity.

These photos should make it clearer.
rgds

Well, I can only see five holes in the second image, so job done.

What about the feed supports on the other three joints within the external pattern ?

https://www.satellites.co.uk/forums/attachments/p1010056-webp.170844/

 

[Vipersan]

Well, I can only see five holes in the second image, so job done.

What about the feed supports on the other three joints within the external pattern ?

https://www.satellites.co.uk/forums/attachments/p1010056-webp.170844/

They were never removed for the dish extension panels CH ...the actual feed support/trripod legs fit into what are plates and leg mounts combined.
They would have been a pita to construct..and like all the original parts would have been cast not formed
See photo.