Superjack Actuator

tighbuidhe

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Hi guys,


After many good years of service my Superjack XL QARL3024 stopped working after the particularly cold and windy Scottish winter.



Today I had a look at it and the 20mm plastic cog/gear on the end of the metal threaded rod has split. This metal threaded rod also supports the limit cam and I have enclosed a couple of pics which show the damaged part.



I was wondering if anyone knows who sells these plastic cogs? (they seem to just press on to the metal rod and I can easily remove the broken one). I have tried Pro Brand International and Jaeger without success :mad:


Or can you suggest anyway to repair my actuator as the motor and everything else seems fine on inspection :-worship




Hope someone can please help :-cheers
 

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Captain Jack

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Can you not just use some plastic glue to repair the split? Maybe put something else around the non-cogged part of the er.. cog to help keep the bond tight.
 

Vipersan

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Sorry Captain 'Super'Jack ..
:)...sorry couldn't resist..

Many years of trying to repair broken polythene gears in VCRs led me to one conclusion ..
There is No suitable glue to join polythene ...particularly when its under stress ..
The only effective way I ever found to do such repairs (as you already hinted at )..was to remove the offending gear ..and find a thin metal sleeve of ferrule to slide over the fractured part of the gear..
Acting as a support sleeve..
This requires finding something suitable and cutting to length ...
To fit ..
Heat until it expands ..
Quickly slide over the damaged plastic bush ...and immediately drop into cold water ..
The sleeve contacts ..thus closing the fracture ..and is permanent ...requiring no glues whatsoever..
Hope this helps..
On smaller gears I kept a supply of old telescopic FM aerials to cut small sections ..and make sleeves from ..
This looks bigger ..so a suitable sleeve donor will have to be found..
good luck
VS
 

Vipersan

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...Yep the same principle used to fit metal rims on wooden cart wheel ...or hoops on wooden barrels ..
It definately works ..but has to be done quickly (cooling rapidly) ..or the polythene gear just melts and becomes a useless lump.
rgds
 

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Is there enough room to fit a jubilee clip?

If a posidrive operated one would interfere with other bits of the actuator, how about one of those lower profile pliers/crimper operated jobbies that you can't easily release when fitted?
 

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Tivù said:
Is there enough room to fit a jubilee clip?

If a posidrive operated one would interfere with other bits of the actuator, how about one of those lower profile pliers/crimper operated jobbies that you can't easily release when fitted?

A good idea Gordon ..but looking at the photo ...it may well fall foul of the second vertical gear ..
If there's enough clearance as the broken gear rotates ...then that's certainly the easier way to go.
rgds
VS
 

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The other potential problem is that the low profile ones aren't adjustable for diameter, unlike the worm drive ones.

Still, they are v.cheap and tighbuidhe might be lucky if he can place one judiciously.
 

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Hi Tighbuidhe...
Any chance you could remove the gear ..(should pop off easy since its split) ...and measure the diameter of the slit section when the fracture is closed ..?
We then might be better placed to offer a suitable fix to close the break....

rgds
VS
 

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tighbuidhe

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Hi again guys, thanks for your input and your possible solutions


@Tivù ..... jubilee clip would be ideal solution but as
Vipersan says it would indeed fall foul of the second vertical gear :mad:
but I will google what you mean by 'low profile jobbies' later ;)


@Vipersan.....great idea with a reinforcing metal sleeve, radio aerial looks too small but will have a rumage through my 'man-drawers' latter
and surely find something like a paint brush ferrule perhaps, just a bit worried about melting the cog.


@Vipersan.....gear does come off really easily as it is split right through. Diameters are small collar 10mm and larger 20 teeth section 18mm.


Thanks again for your replies and any other ideas/advice is certainly welcome
 

Vipersan

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tighbuidhe said:
Hi again guys, thanks for your input and your possible solutions


@Tivù ..... jubilee clip would be ideal solution but as
Vipersan says it would indeed fall foul of the second vertical gear :mad:
but I will google what you mean by 'low profile jobbies' later ;)


@Vipersan.....great idea with a reinforcing metal sleeve, radio aerial looks too small but will have a rumage through my 'man-drawers' latter
and surely find something like a paint brush ferrule perhaps, just a bit worried about melting the cog.


@Vipersan.....gear does come off really easily as it is split right through. Diameters are small collar 10mm and larger 20 teeth section 18mm.


Thanks again for your replies and any other ideas/advice is certainly welcome


Thanks for supplying the diameter ...
looks like you will need a ferule collar of approx 11mm ...
I'll take look what I have in my shops 'man drawers' tomorrow ..
If I find something suitable ..I'll let you know ..
Don't worry too much about melting the polythene gear ..you wont be getting it white hot ..just hot enough to expand the diameter about 1mm ..
Make sure the ferule is just short of the length of the 10mm section of the gear and that it will not slide on with the crack open ..
It has to be a tight fit..
Have everything to hand .. a bowl of cold water ready ..and when everything is ready ..warm the collar in a gas flame holding it with snipe nosed pliers ..
first close the crack by looping fuse wire around the cracked smooth section of the gear as close to the toothed upper section as possible ..(single loop of fuse wire )
twist up until the crack closes ..
Position the heated ferule over the end of the cracked smooth section ..then quickly push it home with the pliers ..
Once pushed hard up to the fuse wire loop ..immediately drop the whole thing into the cold water..
Once cool ..untwist the fuse wire and the job is done ..
no glues ..and dont try to repair the cracked toothed section ...this will work just fine after the ferule is fitted.
If you are worried about doing this ...and I manage to find a suitable ferule..you can post it to me and I'll do it for you ..providing you include a return stamped addressed envelope..
I have a postbox down the street but the post office is good distance away..
rgds
VS
 

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Just had an idea ..
Copper tube comes in 3 flavours ...22mm hot water 15 mm cold water ...and 10mm gas fire supply ...
You may be able to buy a length of 10mm tube from you local DIY store ..
If its suitable ..do not cut with a hack saw ...cut to required length with a rotating pipe cutter and de burr the inside opening which the pipe cutter has crimped inwards with a small round file..
rgds
VS
 

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Vipersan said:
Copper tube comes in 3 flavours ...22mm ...15 mm and 10mm
And don't forget the joining sleeves for those sizes which have those dimensions as their inside diameter. The pipes themselves have nominal IDs of 20mm, 13mm and 8mm respectively.

On the continent there is the luxury of 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 16mm and 22mm pipes with their associated sleeves to play around with (although with a nominal 1mm wall thickness a 12mm pipe will slip over a 10mm pipe).

Isn't there also an 8mm pipe available?
 

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PaulR said:
And don't forget the joining sleeves for those sizes which have those dimensions as their inside diameter. The pipes themselves have nominal IDs of 20mm, 13mm and 8mm respectively.

On the continent there is the luxury of 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 16mm and 22mm pipes with their associated sleeves to play around with (although with a nominal 1mm wall thickness a 12mm pipe will slip over a 10mm pipe).

Isn't there also an 8mm pipe available?

Nice one Paul ..
Celtainly the couplings gives that possibly crucial 1 mm increase in diameter..and may well save buying a full length of copper tube.
I'd be popping the gear in my pocket ..and heading down to a local DIY store or plumbers merchants to physically try for the closest match.

Oh and yes there is an 8mm pipe available ..I belive its used for microbore central heating systems ..but usually comes on coil so I wouldn't want to use it for this kind of job as its pre curved ..
cut short sections ..possibly ok tho'
rgds
VS
 

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Just as a last addition to the copper pipe solution ..
I have in the past managed to increase the internal diameter of the end of a pipe by driving a wooden dowel into the end of a pre-heated pipe and then rapidly cooling ..
The reverse process of what we are trying to achieve ..
The wooden dowel is the tightly fitted and almost impossible to remove ..
But being wood ..it can be drilled out afterwards ..leaving the copper pipe 'belled' at the end ...
Cue for smutty joke G ?
;)
rgds
VS
 

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Thanks again guys for all your ideas. Went round a mates house tonight who is a plumber and tried every fitting he had in the back of his van :D

Measured the diameter of the collar of the cog/gear and it was 9.6mm which was an awful size with 10mm olives etc. being just a little too big.

Eventually went with a 15mm pipe sleeve which had an internal diameter closest to the collar on the gear. Gave it a good heating but when I tried to put it on I only succeeded in melting the nylon :-ohcrap

Finally got it on and tidied up and will hopefully I will try the reassembly of actuator tomorrow.

Thanks again for all the help especially
Vipersan without whose help I probably would never have got this far. :-cheers


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Vipersan

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Well Done m8
A small amount of melting is inevitable
..so long as the interior hole of the gear hasn't melted ..ie it will push back firmly onto the serrated shaft ..
..and the melting didn't affect the teeth of the geared upper section ..
All will be well ..
Looks good from photos ..
I suspect you'll get a positive result ..
Let us know when its functional.
:)
rgds
VS
 

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9.6mm? That sounds like the metric equivalent of 3/8" which begs the question, was the plastic gear originally made in imperial units? Because we completely forgot the old imperial copper pipes; the old 1/2" is just a touch smaller in diameter than 15mm.

Still, well done and I hope it works.
 

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Ah, a British Standard Brass thread and fitting afficionado?
 

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Somewhere I have an example of O'Spigooligan's left-handed Ukrainian gas thread...
 

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Tivù said:
Ah, a British Standard Brass thread and fitting afficionado?

This isn't another thread about Murdoch is it???........I'll get my coat.....
 
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