Technomate TM-2600 M3 not moving.

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The main shaft is turning in it and it’s fit in the cover with no pressure easy to pull out .
I don’t think this failure effects a back lash and I wonder it’s the only course for the problem .
I will send the part this evening after work
From the picture(s) supplied it looks as though the end of the shaft has tolerance that has broken the bearing, unless it is an optical illusion.

Since the top bearing is not under any load, I suspect the lower case assembly might also have wear, perhaps an oversized dish ?
 

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At a closer look now I see scratch marks deep in that bearing room from the broken bearing parts . That indeed could make extra friction when the loose particles come between shaft and bearing
 

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From the picture(s) supplied it looks as though the end of the shaft has tolerance that has broken the bearing, unless it is an optical illusion.

Since the top bearing is not under any load, I suspect the lower case assembly might also have wear, perhaps an oversized dish ?
According to the specs the motor can take upto 1.4m size. I have been only using 1m Gibertini. Shall I open the motor further to check for additional damage?
 

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According to the specs the motor can take upto 1.4m size. I have been only using 1m Gibertini. Shall I open the motor further to check for additional damage?
Maybe there is something else that could have caused the damage - like driving the dish to the point where it hit something solid but the motor still kept trying to drive it? OTOH & TBH, I would have thought that the resultant damage from that would have been mainly to the dish itself, and very visible, and not to the motor (but if the latter, then I would have thought that the gears would have stripped before the shaft or bearing broke!)

BTW: Was the motor supposed to be brand new when you bought it, or could it have been (mis-)used by someone else before you?

PS: Maybe the "easiest" solution would be to just buy a new motor?????
 
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Maybe there is something else that could have caused the damage - like driving the dish to the point where it hit something solid but the motor still kept trying to drive it? OTOH & TBH, I would have thought that the resultant damage from that would have been mainly to the dish itself, and very visible, and not to the motor (but if the latter, then I would have thought that the gears would have stripped before the shaft or bearing broke!)

BTW: Was the motor supposed to be brand new when you bought it, or could it have been (mis-)used by someone else before you?

PS: Maybe the "easiest" solution would be to just buy a new motor?????
I remember seeing the dish brackets during the wind hit metal cable wire and then struggling to move. I think its this event which caused the bearing to break. I have a Stab HH100 in the shed but that's also stuck on a satellite and wont move East/West. Will open up that also to have a look. The motor was brand new when I purchased it 3 years ago. I use it quite alot.
 

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Makes "sense"!
 

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I remember seeing the dish brackets during the wind hit metal cable wire and then struggling to move. I think its this event which caused the bearing to break. I have a Stab HH100 in the shed but that's also stuck on a satellite and wont move East/West. Will open up that also to have a look. The motor was brand new when I purchased it 3 years ago. I use it quite alot.
You might find the Stab rotor is still under some form of warranty.
 

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What is the serial number ?
 

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jeallen01

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OTOH, IIRC, those STABs have been reported as having a few issues, e.g. :
- Relatively slow as compared with most other DiSEqC motors.
- Not a particularly "spectacular" reliability record!

BTW: are they still being manufactured??
 

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What's the best way to check the voltage/current the receiver is sending to the motor? I am worried if the receiver is maybe sending too much current to the motor and eventually frying one of the components. Just weird that Technomate and Stab both have similar issue that they are stuck at certain position. Could a receiver send that much current that it fries some internal of the motor? What is the acceptable Amp range for a motor?
 

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The Rx won't send "too much current" because the current drawn will depend on the resistance/impedance of the load, i.e. the motor & LNB (good old Ohm's Law is your friend on this matter :) ) - so, unless there's some sort of short-circuit in the latter combo, then they will inherently & automatically limit the current to the required (and safe!) level. However if such a fault does occur then the Rx LNB o/p current limits will kick in and (usually) simply shut down (as happens if there is a cable short-circuit fault - which is far more likely than a similar fault in the motor or LNB!).

What could cause damage is if the Rx o/p voltage is too high because that would drive more current into the load and cause overheating - but that's very unlikely unless there's a fault in the receiver, such as the voltage stabiliser components having gone short-circuit.

FWIW: the only situation where I've ever seen a "too high" voltage issue was with my original NEC 5000 H2H motor which ran at 24V from an Rx which outputted that to the motor, when I bought a newer Rx which had a 36V o/p - so, like others in the same situation, I fitted a resistor bank (Ohm's Law, again!) in the o/p to the load so that the voltage actually at/across the motor was reduced to 24V, and it ran fine for years like that :).
 
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The Rx won't send "too much current" because the current drawn will depend on the resistance/impedance of the load, i.e. the motor & LNB (good old Ohm's Law is your friend on this matter :) ) - so, unless there's some sort of short-circuit in the latter combo, then they will inherently & automatically limit the current to the required (and safe!) level. However if such a fault does occur then the Rx LNB o/p current limits will kick in and (usually) simply shut down (as happens if there is a cable short-circuit fault - which is far more likely than a similar fault in the motor or LNB!).

What could cause damage is if the Rx o/p voltage is too high because that would drive more current into the load and cause overheating - but that's very unlikely unless there's a fault in the receiver, such as the voltage stabiliser components having gone short-circuit.

FWIW: the only situation where I've ever seen a "too high" voltage issue was with my original NEC 5000 H2H motor which ran at 24V from an Rx which outputted that to the motor, when I bought a newer Rx which had a 36V o/p - so, like others in the same situation, I fitted a resistor bank (Ohm's Law, again!) in the o/p to the load so that the voltage actually at/across the motor was reduced to 24V, and it ran fine for years like that :).
The last Stab rotor I took apart had burnt out resistors on the board, indicative of the motor demanding more power than it could convert into movement.
 

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The last Stab rotor I took apart had burnt out resistors on the board, indicative of the motor demanding more power than it could convert into movement.
Or those resistors were incorrectly/under-rated for the current drawn/power to be dissipated under max adverse loading conditions (e.g. in a stalled rotor condition caused by the motor trying to drive the dish against "something" solid like a wall or post, etc!)

When I made up the resistor bank for the NEC motor, IIRC I used 4 large ceramic wirewound ones in a series/parallel configuration to get both the resistance value and the power handling capacity that was required - and none of them ever failed in quite a few years of use!:)
 

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Or those resistors were incorrectly/under-rated for the current drawn/power to be dissipated under max adverse loading conditions (e.g. in a stalled rotor condition caused by the motor trying to drive the dish against "something" solid like a wall or post, etc!)

When I made up the resistor bank for the NEC motor, IIRC I used 4 large ceramic wirewound ones in a series/parallel configuration to get both the resistance value and the power handling capacity that was required - and none of them ever failed in quite a few years of use!:)
These were on the circuit board. Will look for the specific thread.
 

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Opened up the motor further. How does it look, I can’t tell if something is broken in the photos attached. When I removed the upper part which connects to the coil below I found a few more metal pieces rattling below. This leads me to believe that the metal bearing broke and was stuck between the cogs. I was also able to manually move the motor manually by moving the cog on the coil below. But as soon as I put the parts back together it seems its same problem. So not sure what else to remove and check/clean?
 

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Channel Hopper

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Opened up the motor further. How does it look, I can’t tell if something is broken in the photos attached. When I removed the upper part which connects to the coil below I found a few more metal pieces rattling below. This leads me to believe that the metal bearing broke and was stuck between the cogs. I was also able to manually move the motor manually by moving the cog on the coil below. But as soon as I put the parts back together it seems its same problem. So not sure what else to remove and check/clean?
Imagery of the top of the board (components) and bottom (if charring is apparent)
 

jeallen01

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These were on the circuit board. Will look for the specific thread.
Even if the resistors are on the board, one can always try to fit the bigger resistors "remotely" somewhere else in the housing (and use "thickish" wiring between the board and the resistors!)
 
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jeallen01

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Opened up the motor further. How does it look, I can’t tell if something is broken in the photos attached. When I removed the upper part which connects to the coil below I found a few more metal pieces rattling below. This leads me to believe that the metal bearing broke and was stuck between the cogs. I was also able to manually move the motor manually by moving the cog on the coil below. But as soon as I put the parts back together it seems its same problem. So not sure what else to remove and check/clean?
Unless I'm mistaken, part of the shaft thread has almost totally stripped ("almost" meaning that it does transmit drive to the dish shaft but only with a very light load) - in which case there seem to be two alternatives: find & fit a new shaft, or replace the whole motor!

Then, given the other damage to the bearing already reported, I think the latter is the correct approach!

PS: if that is the situation then the "resistor issue" is irrelevant because the motor was still working to do that damage!
 
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