Using the "138MHz-4.4GHz USB SMA Source/Signal Generator/Simple Spectrum Analyzer" for TV/CATV/SAT

[moonbase]

Hi,

I have joined this party late but I now have the three pieces of kit required for the spectum analyser (DC blocker, adapter and 1388MHz unit). I have downloaded the software from Vitor's web blog but not yet installed it. Can anyone please help me with a couple of questions so that I can get up and running?

1. How do I make a donation to Vitor and get an activation code for his software?
2. Would anyone please be able to put up a photo of how it all connects together from a dish LNB cable to a PC?

Thanks

 

[vma]

Hi,

I have joined this party late but I now have the three pieces of kit required for the spectum analyser (DC blocker, adapter and 1388MHz unit). I have downloaded the software from Vitor's web blog but not yet installed it. Can anyone please help me with a couple of questions so that I can get up and running?

1. How do I make a donation to Vitor and get an activation code for his software?
2. Would anyone please be able to put up a photo of how it all connects together from a dish LNB cable to a PC?

Thanks

Hi,

Please go to my blog (VMA's Satellite Blog: VMA Simple Spectrum Analyser - Download the latest version here!) and download the manual.

It is pretty detailed and answers all your questions - if not feel free to ask!

Regarding donation, the mystery is easily explained: the instructions are inside the software, so you HAVE to use it with a free non-permanent license first! I did it this way to make sure that people try the software first.
And again, I want to make clear that a donation is not mandatory (but welcome). The only annoyance is that a new activation code has to requested every 3 months, while a donation is rewarded with a permanent license.

Regards,
Vitor

 

[moonbase]

Hi,

I have downloaded the software and manual but the CD that came with the 1388 gizmo is unreadable. Would anyone who bought one of the 1388 unit from eBay please be able to provide me with the driver files I need for the 1388 gizmo?

Also, for satellite dish connection, do I need an attenuator? I have a DC blocker and an adapter but not an attenuator and I am not sure if the signal from a satellite dish will exceed the +5db referred to in the manual?

Thx

 

[vma]

You shouldn't need any driver. The SMA device uses a FTDI USB to RS232 converter, which is pretty standard. Windows should recognize it automatically and install the required driver.
If that is not the case, let me know, I will try to find the CD and send it to you. But rest asure, there is nothing useful on it: the WinNWT software can be downloaded here: WinNWT / LinNWT

If you want to hook up the LOOP THROUGH connector of your satellite receiver to the SMA device, you NEED to use a DC BLOCKER.
An attenuator is not required.

Regards,
Vitor

 

[moonbase]

...If you want to hook up the LOOP THROUGH connector of your satellite receiver to the SMA device, you NEED to use a DC BLOCKER.
An attenuator is not required.

I am not going to use a loop through from a satellite receiver, I am going to connect it to a cable from the dish LNB, does this need an attenuator?

I have set it up as below:

Computer - connected to USB cable - Connected to 1388 gizmo - connected to SMA/F adapter - connected to DC blocker - connected to cable from dish LNB
Is my line of connection of the parts OK?

I have not used the two cables that came with the 1388 gizmo.

Thx

 

[vma]

That will not work. The LNB requires power, voltage (14/18V) and comuting signals like 0/22kHz and/or DiSEqC commands!

The SMA device cannot provide the current, voltage and comuting signals.

You will have to connect the SMA device to the LOOP THROUGH port of a satellite receiver or use a switch with 1-IN and 2-OUT (or more OUT ports). One connects to the receiver, the other connects to the SMA.

You will in all cases need the DC BLOCKER, unless you use a special switch, like the one discussed in the beginning of this thread, which uses diodes to protect each output from the current/voltage/signals inserted on the other output connectors.

Again, all of this is discussed in the manual of my software.

Regards,
Vitor

 

[moonbase]

That will not work....You will have to connect the SMA device to the LOOP THROUGH port of a satellite receiver...

Vitor,

Thank you for your reply, If I update my line of connection as below will this be OK?

Computer - connected to USB cable - Connected to 1388 gizmo - connected to SMA/F adapter - connected to DC blocker - connected to LOOPOUT from Satellite Receiver

Thx

 

[John]

Vitor,

Thank you for your reply, If I update my line of connection as below will this be OK?

Computer - connected to USB cable - Connected to 1388 gizmo - connected to SMA/F adapter - connected to DC blocker - connected to LOOPOUT from Satellite Receiver

Thx

Thats how iv'e got mine MB, just make sure what ever DC block you use is put in place with the right polarity if it's a diode type

 

[Hixxy1]

Besides from powering the LNB, you also need to send the 22khz tone to switch the LO.


Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

 

[moonbase]

Thats how iv'e got mine MB, just make sure what ever DC block you use is put in place with the right polarity if it's a diode type

I have the DC Blocker that I bought from "Pluto Direct", its the one in the link below. How I can tell if it is a diode type or not?

ANTIFERENCE DCB01 In Line DC Block

Thx

 

[John]

I have the DC Blocker that I bought from "Pluto Direct", its the one in the link below. How I can tell if it is a diode type or not?

ANTIFERENCE DCB01 In Line DC Block

Thx

That one shown should be fool proof, male pin F to the receiver & opposite female F end to go out to the SSA device and might even have the diode symbol shown on the barrel. I have some of a different make that are female either end so care must be taken as to the polarity when put in place. You could also do a simple check with a multimeter on the blocker to establish that it is blocking DC volts in the right direction if the device does not have the symbol.

 

[moonbase]

That one shown should be fool proof, male pin F to the receiver & opposite female F end to go out to the SSA device and might even have the diode symbol shown on the barrel. I have some of a different make that are female either end so care must be taken as to the polarity when put in place. You could also do a simple check with a multimeter on the blocker to establish that it is blocking DC volts in the right direction if the device does not have the symbol.

John,

Thx for the reply.

If I understand your reply correctly, I screw the male end of the DC Blocker directly to the satellite receiver LNB LOOP OUT then use some satellite cable with male F connectors at each end to connect the female end of the DC Blocker to the female F end of the SMA/F connector. Is that correct?

The other way that I had actually set it up before reading your reply was to use satellite cable directly onto the receiver LOOP OUT and then the other end of the satellite cable connected to the female F connection on the DC Blocker, then connect the male end of the DC Blocker to the F/SMA adapter.

The above two connection routes have the DC Blocker in reverse directions, will any of the above routes work or does it need to point in a specific direction? Unfortunately, I do not have a multi meter to carry out any tests and would not know how to use one if I had one.

Thx

 

[moonbase]

Besides from powering the LNB, you also need to send the 22khz tone to switch the LO.

I have the 22KHz setting in my receiver menu set to AUTO, will that be OK?

Thx

 

[John]

John,

Thx for the reply.

If I understand your reply correctly, I screw the male end of the DC Blocker directly to the satellite receiver LNB LOOP OUT then use some satellite cable with male F connectors at each end to connect the female end of the DC Blocker to the female F end of the SMA/F connector. Is that correct?

The other way that I had actually set it up before reading your reply was to use satellite cable directly onto the receiver LOOP OUT and then the other end of the satellite cable connected to the female F connection on the DC Blocker, then connect the male end of the DC Blocker to the F/SMA adapter.

The above two connection routes have the DC Blocker in reverse directions, will any of the above routes work or does it need to point in a specific direction? Unfortunately, I do not have a multi meter to carry out any tests and would not know how to use one if I had one.

Thx

** STOP: don't do anything else with the SSA in circuit. **
From what you have described above you might have injected either 13 or 18 volts into the SSA device input which is very bad news, fingers crossed it's not.

It should be connected as in diagram.
Has your DC block got any symbol or "In-Out" markings ? .... can you take an actual pic of the block in the highest forum resolution allowed of just under 1meg and post it.

Do a quick test to possibly indicate if the unit is buggered ..... connect usb lead to pc / laptop , does the green power led light up on the SSA device ?.

 

[John]

I have the 22KHz setting in my receiver menu set to AUTO, will that be OK?

Thx

This is the least of your worries at the minute , but yes-Auto is fine.

 

[moonbase]

John,

I have not connected anything up yet to a satellite receiver or a PC, I was waiting for confirmation of the connectivity before proceeding. I have attached a picture of my DC Blocker, there are no labels or indication on it about diodes etc.

In your diagram, should the SMA/F adapter be in between the DC Block and the 1388 gizmo if I am not using a 4 way splitter?

Thanks.

 

[jeallen01]

makle

John,

I have not connected anything up yet to a satellite receiver or a PC, I was waiting for confirmation of the connectivity before proceeding. I have attached a picture of my DC Blocker, there are no labels or indication on it about diodes etc..

Have you not got some form of multi-meter? If not then you should certainly get one (less than £15 for something basic & reasonably decent, like this - although there are many others. Just make sure it is marked as meeting the EN/IEC 61010-1 Class II safety protection category, as most are except those around £3-5!) as you can then check yourself (and it has lots of other uses too).
Also, the blocker might be simply a capacitor, and not a diode - in which case there will be no DC continuity in either direction, and that would explain why there is no diode symbol on it.

In your diagram, should the SMA/F adapter be in between the DC Block and the 1388 gizmo if I am not using a 4 way splitter?
Thanks.

Simple answer is "Yes" because you need the SMA/F adapter between the input terminal of the SSA module and the DC Blocker ! Physically can't fit together any other way!

 

[moonbase]

makle
Have you not got some form of multi-meter? If not then you should certainly get one (less than £15 for something basic & reasonably decent, like this - although there are many others. Just make sure it is marked as meeting the EN/IEC 61010-1 Class II safety protection category, as most are except those around £3-5!) as you can then check yourself ...

Thank you for your reply.

I do not have a multi meter and am not sure how to use one. I am happy enough to buy one and give it a go if I was told what to check for.


Thx

 

[John]

I have got one of those Dave, it is a capacitor type DC block as John mentioned so will block volts which ever way round you use it .... just tested it to be sure.

 

[moonbase]

I have got one of those Dave, it is a capacitor type DC block as John mentioned so will block volts which ever way round you use it .... just tested it to be sure.

Good news, many thanks for all your help guys, I will get it all connected up and have a play over the weekend with it.

Rgds