Actuators AGAIN ...

scopus

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Thanks for the pics mate ..
and yes the cable entry is in the same place as yours..
Gutted mine hasn't got one ..
Are we doomed to buy nothing but crap any more ?
This is imo one way to increase turnover ..
leave out the hole and bugger the jack quicker..
Grrrr

Looks that way mate. I would e-mail SS, tell them no drain holes are present, the rain getting down into the innards will soon bugger it up.
 

Vipersan

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Hmmm ..
what I do find odd is that a web search for QARl3624 produces 2 distinctly different products ..
One claiming 3 drain holes ..
The other not claiming Any ..but pictures showing none ..??
Which is genuine and which is fake ? ...or are they both genuine but have design changes perhaps ..
This is the same as the one supplied by SS ..
http://www.shop.ew-sat.de/en/Actuators-Positioner/Actuator-Superjack-QARL-3624.html
fwiw ..

so is this one ...
http://www.primesat.eu/satellite_dish_actuators_motors.php#24inch
neither show drain holes and yet ...
this one looks different and claims 3 drain holes ..
Which is correct ..??
Im lost totally ...
http://satellitemart.com/index.php/...624-24-heavy-duty-monster-motor-actuator.html
All claim to be 'genuine'
 

Llew

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VS, my QARL3624+, waiting for a nice big dish to use it on (some hopes), has two drainage holes, and the nut is at the bottom, where yours is at the side (?)

My serial no. is 20042925 if that's at all relevant.


Actuator.JPG
 

Vipersan

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DSCF0116.JPG
VS, my QARL3624+, waiting for a nice big dish to use it on (some hopes), has two drainage holes, and the nut is at the bottom, where yours is at the side (?)

My serial no. is 20042925 if that's at all relevant.


View attachment 82643
Exactly the problem Llew ..
There appear to be 2 different versions of the QARL3624 ..
The one I got from RA that failed recently is the same as yours ...?
The one from SS is different both in looks ..construction and missing drain holes ..
So
begs the question ...which is Genuine ...and which is Fake ..
Or are they both genuine but with a changed design ..
I am still no wiser ...and this is most confusing.
rgds
VS

SN on mine is 20100000835 ...and says on the box ...Superjack 'star series'
Says on the jack label XL HQ Series
 
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Llew

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There can't be that many manufacturers of what is essentially a niche product.
I'm inclined to your view that it's a design that has gone through several stages over time. But whether any of them are genuine Jaegers, who knows?
 

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There can't be that many manufacturers of what is essentially a niche product.
I'm inclined to your view that it's a design that has gone through several stages over time. But whether any of them are genuine Jaegers, who knows?
To add to this theory ..take a close look at my label ...
the first 4 SN digits look like a date ...??
Year 2010 ...
working on the same principle ..
yours may actually be circa 2004 ??
 

Vipersan

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Even more convinced now ..
Just been out back with a torch ..to look at the label on the failed Red Apple QARL ..
it too has the first 4 SN digits 2004 ...
So looks like we nailed it ..
Design change and some retailers still selling old stock..
????
Perhaps the newer design doesnt need drain holes ..?
Or perhaps they re-designed it to fail quicker..
CHURN
 
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Looking more at that link they do the ball type, shipping should be cheap ?, maybe worth trying a ball type, but i wouldn't get a acme one again, i will make some inquiries nearer the time :)
 

moonbase

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Looking more at that link they do the ball type, shipping should be cheap ?, maybe worth trying a ball type, but i wouldn't get a acme one again, i will make some inquiries nearer the time :)

As a point of information, is there a weakness or design fault with the acme ball type actuator as compared to other types of ball actuator?
 

Captain Jack

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Ball type, from what I understand, has a much smoother, less strained movement with zero play in it. There's a video on this page here - http://www.thomsonlinear.com/website/com/eng/products/ball_screws_and_lead_screws/ball_screws.php

I have the SuperPowerJack 24" heavy duty jack, totally unused but it seem to already have play in it.

The one thing that pi**es me off with these new jacks is that I have to loosen up the ball bearing on the mounting points - they are usually rock solid and takes a good few minutes with some oil and a large bolt get it going. Another sign of cheapness.
 

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Ball type, from what I understand, has a much smoother, less strained movement with zero play in it. There's a video on this page here - http://www.thomsonlinear.com/website/com/eng/products/ball_screws_and_lead_screws/ball_screws.php

I have the SuperPowerJack 24" heavy duty jack, totally unused but it seem to already have play in it.

The one thing that pi**es me off with these new jacks is that I have to loosen up the ball bearing on the mounting points - they are usually rock solid and takes a good few minutes with some oil and a large bolt get it going. Another sign of cheapness.

This about sums them up Alex,
 

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Well ..for good or ill ..the QARL is fitted ..
Now lets see how long this non drain hole version lasts ..
Expect a comment on this in about 12 months.
:(
Of course I had to tinker a bit didn't I ..
I hate the Side Sag of the jack where the sleeve collar rose joint hangs in mid air with no support ..
With a heavy actuator over time and as the roseball joint wears and frees up ..sag does indeed occur such that you are do longer driving in a linear direct direction ..
This also introduces wear and strain at the other rose where it attaches to the actual dish ..
My crude attempt to reduce this effect is thusly ..
effectively ...a roughly 3/4 inch thick giant washer in polythene ..which is self lubricating to some degree and introduces minimal friction as the 3 rose joint rivets slide over it ..
Here are a couple of pics which explain better I think..
rgds
VS
 

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Captain Jack

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VS, how do you initially free up these rose joints from new? Were they seized solid?
 

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VS, how do you initially free up these rose joints from new? Were they seized solid?
Indeed they were Alex ..as usual ...and using the same method as above..
A long steel drift and penetrating oil..
 

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Well ..
That didnt last long did it ..
2 transits off the arc and the motor stopped moving displaying Error 2 on the Vbox/Gbox..
Indicative of not receiving pulses ..
Sure enough ..a quick check with the meter and the reed is s/c ..
ie permanently welded contacts inside the vacuum glass envelope.
thus no pulses generated..
Now ...
a look on the SS site shows they actually advertise a replacement reed which as we know should last a VERY long time ..so why is this advertised so prominantly ?
Just another reason to suspect this is indeed a clone copy ..
Simply not good enough ..
I've been in touch with SS to complain ..and they are sending me a replacement reed FOC ..
It's the least they can do imo..
Hopefully this is easily changed WITHOUT full disassembly ..
This world is turning to shyte imo ..
NOTHING being made to last ..ALL built to fail..
rgds
VS
 

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I would have been tempted to get my money back and buy a good one, you will be back to square one in 12 months like you say yourself, there a bag of shi*. pay good money and get a good one that will last for years ACME is no good :(
 

Vipersan

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I would have been tempted to get my money back and buy a good one, you will be back to square one in 12 months like you say yourself, there a bag of shi*. pay good money and get a good one that will last for years ACME is no good :(
Therin lies the problem Martin ..
You simply can't buy a quality dedicated dish actuator this side of the pond imo..
I will definately be part of a group buy in the future if we go ahead...
In the meantime I'll have to make do with the shit we _can_ get access to.
cest la vie
 

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All the time and effort you put in pal you deserve the best, lets see what we can do, i will do some deep studying and see what i can find.
 

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Looking back at the link from last night the ST-5000 Jaeger superjack solar Actuator is worth a try metal gear and ball, i will email them for a quote delivered to the uk.
 
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