Advice Please

N

nigdav

Member
I have a Manhattan dsr 2500 which has gone kaput. The red power light come on but absolutely nothing else happens. I keep the receiver in the Conservatory which may be the problem. Can something 'dry out'?


Can any one tell me if the problem is repairable or as the receiver is now a few years old would it be more cost effective to replace it alltogether.


Thanks
ND
 
Welcome to the forum nigdav
It is unfortunate that your dsr 2500 is kaput. it is extremely difficult to diagnose something when it is infront of you let alone not being able to inspect it.
I am no electrical or electronics engineer and have never seen your dsr but I think I know of a few things you can check. If you have a red light then this means there is at least power to unit via the mains lead. Is there a screw in type fuse socket on the back of the dsr??? have you checked this fuse? Is the f connector screwed in correctly to the dsr? Can you remember what the sequence is when it boots and which bits are not happening?.
If you are considering a new purchase then go for a unit that is well supported with patches such as the technomate TM 1500, there is a full reveiw if you click here
 
does the reveiver do anything at all? what about video outputs, response to remote control, software functions, etc?

i'm not an expert on Manhatten, but more symptoms might suggest something.

which model? which light comes on?
 
Electrloytic capacitors 'dry out' fairly readily and fail on a regular basis.
There are PSU repair kits containing these for recievers (£15 or so) so it is easy to repalce them.
Don't think your conservatory had much to do with it as the cheap switchmode power supplies they put in recievers are usually the weakest part of them.


L.:)
 
Cheap SMPUs, not in the 2500, in the later models yes

Two capacitors will be at fault, C109 and C112.

Just replace them (about £3 each) note polarity before taking out though
 
Let us know if it works
 
I have looked at the circuit board and the Cap C109 appears not to be the original. All the others are marked with writing apart from this one plus the ends are shorter than the others. I am going to try and replace it myself. I am not technical at all but have looked at some websites and it appears pretty straight forward. All I need to know is when I go to Maplins do I ask for a C109 Capacitor or will they need some other technical term. Are c109 caps universal?

Im going to buy a soldering kit as well.

I know, i'm a d***head.

Help really appreciated

ND
 
you need the capacitance value (in micro farads), and correct (or better)voltage rating, if electrolytic. Things like "c109" Just refer to position on the schematic circuit drawing.

Easiest thing might be to remove the (suspected) faulty one, and take it with you to Maplin, but that's a bit hit and miss, much better if you could fault find first.

If the capacitor is electrolytic and polarised (has either plus or minus signs down one side), then put replacement in the same way round, otherwise it will go "pop" when power is applied.
 
Hopper will most likley know the value as he probably had a diag to call the cap number on the board in the first place.

Hang fire until he posts back. Then you will know the value you are after.

L.
 
yeah thats the problem I cant see diddly squat on the cap. It has no markings at all. So how can I tell what size it is etc. Think I might just take it to a repairer, sounds safer. Thanks for your help
 
if no markings at all, and physically small (?), then not electrolytic!
 
No Spinney, its midsize and looks like all the others except it has no markings. It looks to my untrained eye like it has been previously repaired. There are some weld marks to the rear where as the rest are clean. Its located at C109 so its defo a capacitor. I bought this second hand so not too sure of its history.


ND
 
I only recall the board numbers from memory, not from a repair book.

Again from memory they were both 2200uF and 10V, but dont quote me on it
 
Whatever electrolytic you replace in the SMPS, make sure they're high temperature types (105 deg.C)

Llew
 
Good luck with repair, hope that's the problem!

Just to say, all electrolytics are relatively large, even 10v ones, others tend to be ceramic discs, although there are more types (of course).
 
Miracles do happen Ive only gone and bloody fixed it. No bangs or fires as yet. Didn't even burn myself with the soldering iron!
Again many thanks to all who offered help. Ive seen some forums where the 'experts' treat newbies with contempt.
Full of praise!

ND
 
Back
Top