Help Required Dead vbox?

wod

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After months of not using my dish setup, I thought I'd swing dish around and see what's new.

Switched on receiver dish still on 10e where I left it bonus as tv zimbo showing footy according to liveonsat.

Now tv zimbo is coming through but quite a bit of breakup, try to tweak the dish nothing.

Appears vbox is dead nothing on the front of it and doesn't respond to remote or button presses on the unit itself.

Any ideas? I just hope nothing else is damaged as it's been unplugged for a while due to decorating etc.

The vbox is a jaeger vbox 2 that I've had years connected to 1224 motor.

Checked in side no blown fuses or raised capacitors.

So I guess it's dead time to buy a replacement but what do I buy?
 

Mickha

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You wont find a lot of options, for a V-Box II, but there is a new thread, with one other option, by spiff.
Will this replace a v box ?

You can always use a small battery, to move your dish, I used the one from my house alarm, just to nudge the motor, to the correct position, for initial set up.
Just connect the motor+ and motor- wires to positive, and negative, on the battery, switch them round to move them back.

One alternative, to a V-Box II, is to get an old receiver, with connections for a 36v motor, my old Echostar 3600 used to have these.
 

Vipersan

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After months of not using my dish setup, I thought I'd swing dish around and see what's new.

Switched on receiver dish still on 10e where I left it bonus as tv zimbo showing footy according to liveonsat.

Now tv zimbo is coming through but quite a bit of breakup, try to tweak the dish nothing.

Appears vbox is dead nothing on the front of it and doesn't respond to remote or button presses on the unit itself.

Any ideas? I just hope nothing else is damaged as it's been unplugged for a while due to decorating etc.

The vbox is a jaeger vbox 2 that I've had years connected to 1224 motor.

Checked in side no blown fuses or raised capacitors.

So I guess it's dead time to buy a replacement but what do I buy?
Usually an open circuit thermal fuse embeded in the transformer winding (primary/mains ..side)
You can check continuity with a multimeter ..but sadly not fixable as you cant get inside the coils without destroying the transformer laminations.
I guess you could try and find a suitable replacement ..
Needs to be high v/a (current) and about 40v ac to drive the motor ...and a seperate winding approx 9 to12v ac for the control circuitry ..
240v ac mains primary ..
rgds
VS
 
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Captain Jack

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And cheaper to get a new Vbox
 

wod

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jeallen01

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Transformers - there are a couple of reasonably high VA ratings 230/4oV Txfrs here: they actually have 2x 20V secondaries which could be connected in series to get 40V o/p, but whether they will fit in the box or if VA ratings are high enough I don't know.

As for the 9-12V ac control cct Txfr, you could
- fit a small 230/12V Txfr inside the box if there is space - some here
- use an external wallwart or similar unit with a flying o/p lead, fit an input socket to the V-box and connect that to the control ccts instead of to the original Txfr winding.

If not enough space inside the V-box for the main Txfr, then get another box to house both Txfrs and connect that to the V-Box with an appropriate lead and connectors (BE CAREFUL HOW YOU CONNECT the mains to the new box - use an IEC 3-pole inlet appliance connector if possible!)

Edited: as later mentioned - a new V-box will probably be cheaper!
 

wod

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And cheaper to get a new Vbox

Yeah it seems so, the one from sat superstore looks ideal only 39 pound.

just hope my 1224 motor isn't damaged either.
 

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wod

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The transformer went on my Superjack V-Box II. I just replaced it with one of these, it's not bolted in but it does fit and is cheaper than replacing the vbox. | 2 Output Toroidal Transformer, 50VA, 2 x 15V ac |

Interesting thanks for posting. There used to be a hum coming from the vbox but not anymore so the transformer has died?

Looking at the picture is there much soldering to do?

Hope I can salvage the connectors from the old one and wire up the power cord.
 

aceb

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Not really, just a case of mains in and then low voltage out to the PCB. I can't remember what's on sockets or hard wired tbh but if you get one let me know and I'll post a couple of lid off photos so you can see what I had to do on mine. Of course your innards may be different to mine so you'll need to wire accordingly.
 

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aceb
That link to the UK-RS site is not working (tried several times, and it just continues to try to load but goes nowhere).
 

aceb

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Strange, working fine here in FF via Sky.
 

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Also working fine with Firefox, Win 10 and FWA Broadband.



upload_2016-10-29_22-1-28.png
 
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Ghostleader

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@jeallen01, site link working here via stock Android.Open.Source. Project browser and crap Plusnet BB.

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jeallen01

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Says something for Virgin cable-broadband then! - which is otherwise fine, although it could be that I am streaming a movie from Amazon Prime at the same time:(.
 

Ghostleader

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Virgin be utter crap, claimed speeds are complete fantasy most of the time I've found locally mate, anyway site via A.O.S.P. browser on my phone: Screenshot_2016-10-29-23-13-34.png

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Actually, I don't think it was my Virgin connection as I was then using a small/relatively slow netbook in the lounge via WiFi, and I think it was the latter connection that was poor as I have just done a couple of broadband connection speed tests this morning on my main 1Gbs wired LAN to my main PC - and got between 58 and 75mbs download and 5-10mbs upload speeds, depending on which speed-checker I used (that's on a nominal 70mbs Virgin fibre-to-local box and then cable from box-to-house). Very rarely is it a lot less than that unless there is a fault - OTOH, any sort of ADSL connection where no fibre is available is probably an entirely different matter!

PS: the RS page popped up very quickly this morning on my main laptop using my 1G/s wired LAN - and the Txfr does look like it would work to provide both the 30-40V and the 9-12V (although a low-value high-wattage series resistor would be a good idea for the latter!) supplies. You should secure it properly in place using something like one of the mounting kits shown here, plus a bolt and nut through the chassis, or you could probably also make something similar yourself - and, either way, you do need to make sure that there are very good insulators between both the clamping plate and the windings, and the windings and the chassis (GL - I really do hope you have done at least that if you have not actually secured the Txfr in-place, or we might not see you around sometime soon in the future!)!
 
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