DiseqC Motor internal comparison pictures

rolfw

rolfw

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rai uno said:
Whilst it may seem obvious that Motors with all metal gearing should be longer lasting, is there evidence showing that that is so?
Good point, the metal gear DiSEqC motors have not been around long enough to prove that they will last longer.They will only be as strong as the weakest component and they are being sold on the basis that they are better able to handle larger dishes, even this has not been proven over the longer term.
 
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It depends what metal it is ...and what plastic it is.. and then there's ..... design, engineering, production tolerances/ quality control and if fakes of the whole motor or if it contains some fake parts (really not easy to guarantee nowadays for any manufacturer and if it happens, it's dealt with but.. many manufacturers actually keep quiet about it)..... OH.. and then there's if they have er.. engineered in a set life for the product.... like they do with everything else nowadays...

or there's just.. "things do break"....

(I'd put it to one side and remake that worm gear (when not busy) ...if the rest of the motor's OK)

I'd like to know what that spring does on the main gear... if it's an E/W limiter, that's usually done by a simple switch... to me it looks more like a damper.. to take strain off the motor (didn't work did it... But maybe it does a bit).
 
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dodgemaster

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sorry to confuse you its the way I have written it down that's confusing, (it was late last night and brain not thinking straight) what I meant was the casting arm on the motor is the spring tensioner and the casting of the main housing has a peg cast in it to act as a hardware limit, you are correct in saying its a damper, as for repair its not only the worm gear its the two cogs on the motor side as well, if you want any more specific photos let me know
one other thing I have to retract is the worm gear being made of ally , after further investigation it is steel , the way it was machined made it look like ally, so that puts my theory of the worm gear being the weak point out the window
 
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That's a relief, that could be just normal damage- seen plenty of chewed cogs in all sorts of gearboxes over the years. The spring damper, if that's what it is, might explain that the STABs can 'give' a bit on a big dish, but still keep very accurate position.

The STAB HH120s have been used on an awful lot of the heavy Triax 1.1s after a number of other motors were tried... The best test really….…not cheap though.
 
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dodgemaster

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heres a couple of pics that might show it better than I can explain
 

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bubby-joe

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dodgemaster said:
the spring sits against a arm that is part of the casting of the motor housingacting as a harware limiter, when I took the motor out it went off with a good twang, so yes I would say its quite strong, it also had a small amount of water inside the unit not that that was the fact it went wrong. I would say it was the worm gear that caused the problem , worm gear is ally and the main gear is steel and I think it shaved the worm gear and seized up with the fragments and that caused the teeth on the other gears to flatten out. Well that's my theory anyway
Dodgemaster I had a similar sounding problem with my HH-90, bought new in 2002 the motor never worked from day 1, the distributor sent me a logic board and I installed it but it never fixed the problems, the diseqc 1.2 would not save positions and the USALS would not move to the selected satellite coordinates but only to the zero location and also would not save satellite locations, this was with 3 Pansat 2500a's, a fortec Ultra, a Neusat sp6000, a Coolsat 5000 or a Viewsat Ultra so testing on 7 boxes with the same results the problem is with the motor in this case. But this is another problem with the same motor.

To my theoretical problems with the HH-90 motor, it would run very jumpy or just stall all together and not move, it was all setup with a 1 meter dish that's within specs for weight, this happened with the indicated bolt in the photo on the snug side but If I loosened and then tightened it to the looser spec stated it worked fine. I notified the distributor where I bought it but have heard nothing back and really don't expect to. Sorry for the messy printing but it's covered in PAM spray and it won't come off. Don't ask how many Newton's, I couldn't tell you but at 15 Ft.lb. the upper mount bolt must put some crushing pressure on the worm assembly to cause this, the bolt passes directly under the worm assembly and that's my theory for very erratic running and motor won't work when heated to 120 degree's in the summer sun, compression and metal expansion but it is just a theory. On the hot ones if there cooled with cool water they then work until they heat back up again.
 

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That's a good observation and well worth noting. I've not seen that but I have seen enough bolts on delicate dish faces over tightened but really you tend to need to tighten motors up quite a bit and 15ft/lb you'd expect to be OK ... that's a poor design flaw if it does do that, something that worries me though is if we are at times looking at a bootleg problem, the STABs are generally more expensive and more attractive to bootleg.
 
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bubby-joe

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The way to test my theory is to snug up that bolt on a working unit and see if it jams up then loosen and see if it starts back up, By the way it's a real one, not a clone or a knock off but like I said it was a problem motor from day 1, It's replacement is on is way from Toronto should be here later this week, not a STAB unit but an SG2100, hope it wasn't made on a Friday of a long weekend. The STAB HH-90 quit on game day and decided it really didn't want to move any more and the plastic top failed all over the place with some help from a 2 lb Snap-on but you know after a mechanical adjustment the darn thing still works as poorly as before it quit on game day (now that's a mechanical restart). I don't thing the worm gear has more than 5 hours total time on it in four years and it seems a shame but such is life. I also have the original logic board and I don't think there is really anything wrong with it but I didn't put it back in to test that, the original problem was the motor quit working, possibly over tightened enough to make the motor fail but at that time they replaced a lot of logic boards. But for now it's back to the scrap pile till I need a small motor or worm assembly for another project. It's only money and My Ex's kids get not one dime of it.
 
LAURO2008

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Hello m8's,

it has been a while:) ..I really would like to have your feed back about th "dark motor Superior" :-worship

What do you think? Is there any pic where we can see in it ? I mean plastic or metal gear

Thanks as usual:toke:
 
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DARKMOTOR

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The real truthe is :

This Post and this picture are from 22 Octobre 2007
Before everyone some one nominate here.

Metal gear Motors passed over a year ..this post is done from Darkman in
22nd October 2007, 05:16 PM
^^^DARKMAN^^^
ADMIN Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: *********
Age: 38
Posts: 10,294

SOON Super DarkMotor-Metal Gear

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Soon in the Market will be Super DarkMotor -Metal Gear.

This motor will support more weight and will be one of the leaders of all factory motors after ***** puting a lot of imput.

DARK Motor will be the best better of Stab factory in Italia and Moteck of Taiwan and Slovenian cheap motor is well.

This is after serious business made by ***** and the Factory where now ***** is the main shareholder! More development is underway with many offers and products to follow in the near future.


All other motors are they coppy Alcually DARKMotors

starting from Color , to disagner and Metal Gear too.

The company is combination beetween ***** and T Motion.

Those Pictures can prove to you Who is the Main and who is winner.
 

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LAURO2008

LAURO2008

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OK thanks Darkmotor... but still I would like to get a pic of the Superior inside...they can write whatever they want on the box :-)
 
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credcrunching

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just wanna make use of the moteck motor photos posted above. my motor was smoking and when i opened up i found a burnt out blue disc-like component labelled
com2(i think com1 is the same as com2).i would like help to identify it.com1 clearly visible and com2 is barely visible .
 

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Topper

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Welcome to the forum credcrunching

well it is a poor photograph but I think you are talking about a ceramic capacitor but you will have to read the values of it with a magnifier.

But looks like the IC chip bottom left is damaged as well
 
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credcrunching

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tried that already and i got VCR 7D2D DK.. . googled it but no luck. i experimented with something of the same size with 104z marking and got the green light. But it was unable to move the dish. any clue as to what 7D2D DKF(E) means will be appreciated
 
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credcrunching said:
tried that already and i got VCR 7D2D DK.. . googled it but no luck. i experimented with something of the same size with 104z marking and got the green light. But it was unable to move the dish. any clue as to what 7D2D DKF(E) means will be appreciated
Can you attach a photo of the capacitor? only from both sides, so that we can try to identify it better?
A logo of the manufacturer would give us a clue.
It is possible that there is another component that is damaged also.
Possible suspects are the relays and transistor Q3.
What bothers me is that I want to identify it if it is indeed a capacitor and not something else like a thermal cutoff.
What is the designation of the yellow capacitor above it, perhaps the wires are covering it up, but if the yellow cap is designated C8, then what is the designation for the blue component, as COM1 is not a designation for a capacitor (usually C).
 
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vb1966

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I've managed to open the Stab HH90 motor's case. And lo and behold it now seems to be working. Also it doesn't seem that the gears are too much worn down (see pictures). I've had the motor for four years, and I am surprised that its condition looks quite decent. In fact I think that I will put some grease and put it back on and see if it works with the dish. Maybe the dish weight will cause it to malfunction again. Does the grease need to have any particular properties, or normal grease will do?
 

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vb1966

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I've managed to open the Stab HH90 motor's case. And lo and behold it now seems to be working. Also it doesn't seem that the gears are too much worn down (see pictures). I've had the motor for four years, and I am surprised that its condition looks quite decent. In fact I think that I will put some grease and put it back on and see if it works with the dish. Maybe the dish weight will cause it to malfunction again. Does the grease need to have any particular properties, or normal grease will do?
 
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bubby-joe

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vb1966 said:
I've managed to open the Stab HH90 motor's case. And lo and behold it now seems to be working. Also it doesn't seem that the gears are too much worn down (see pictures). I've had the motor for four years, and I am surprised that its condition looks quite decent. In fact I think that I will put some grease and put it back on and see if it works with the dish. Maybe the dish weight will cause it to malfunction again. Does the grease need to have any particular properties, or normal grease will do?


Please describe original failure. (Motor locked up and won't move) like the hh-90 of Bubby-Joe's theory on why mine didn't move. As far as grease mine looked like a general purpose medium duty grease, nothing special.

Note I replaced mine with a sg-2100 and it works perfect since I installed it no problems at all.
 
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bubby-joe

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Northern B.C. Canada
vb1966 said:
I've managed to open the Stab HH90 motor's case. And lo and behold it now seems to be working. Also it doesn't seem that the gears are too much worn down (see pictures). I've had the motor for four years, and I am surprised that its condition looks quite decent. In fact I think that I will put some grease and put it back on and see if it works with the dish. Maybe the dish weight will cause it to malfunction again. Does the grease need to have any particular properties, or normal grease will do?


Please describe original failure. (Motor locked up and won't move) like the hh-90 of Bubby-Joe's theory on why mine didn't move. As far as grease mine looked like a general purpose medium duty grease, nothing special.

Note I replaced mine with a sg-2100 and it works perfect since I installed it no problems at all.
 
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vb1966

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bubby-joe -Actually this post was copied here by a moderator. The original thread is at http://www.satellites.co.uk/satellite/work-bench-soldering-station/164682-opening-stab-hh90.html#post888434.

Yes, I've seen the problem of overtightening the indicated bolt on mine. I've experienced that before. This time, however, the problem I think stemmed from the fact that I had fitted a second LNB to the motorised system. I was working with this setup for a couple of weeks, but I think that I hadn't moved the dish to 30W until the problem arose. From where I live, 30W is quite at an awkward angle, and I believe that with the additional weight, the motor couldn't make it to move the dish. However what confused me is that after I had removed both the LNBs and even the whole dish, the motor would still not move. So at that point I thought that the motor was fried. So I took it off. However, after opening it up, it started to work again, with no apparent damage and very little wear-and-tear present. So I am thinking of putting it on again. I just need to find some time.
 
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