H180 Modding ?

Vipersan

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Sadly rain stopped play today as I tried to retrofit another elevation bracket on my H180 motor..
I've looked at this many times and often wondered who designed a motor with adjustment from one corner only..
Granted it is only used during the setup phase really ..but not the best solution imo ...
Hopefully I can fit a second angled bracket to the rear of the motor and distribute adjustment and loading accross the whole motor ..and at some point in the future extend backwards and fit a jack for a crude elevation control.
Anyone been down this path before ? ...and of course design criticisms /considerations + suggestons ..to my projects are always welcome..
rgds
VS
 

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Mickha

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The design probably had something to do with the 1224 EL:
1224_superjack.jpg

Hopefully your design can improve on this.
 

Vipersan

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The design probably had something to do with the 1224 EL:
View attachment 67209

Hopefully your design can improve on this.
Indeed it looks that way buddy ...but have never seen one of those ...
I still dont like the idea of driving from one corner ..
It just doesn't feel right to me.
rgds
VS
 

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Something like this? Adjust 2 turnbuckles from both sides.
 

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Vipersan

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Something like this? Adjust 2 turnbuckles from both sides.
I already have something similar to that for Declination Rima ..
Modded some time ago ...but this mod would be for Elevation ..and possibly adding a jack.
rgds
VS
 

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Captain Jack

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Maybe like this?

uploadfromtaptalk1408288433569.jpg
 

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I like that Idea CJ ..and would prolly opt for similar If I went for declination control..
rgds
VS
 

Captain Jack

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Yep... But make sure the weight of the dish is pushing the rod/worm drive into the jack arm as opposed to pulling it.
 

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Yep... But make sure the weight of the dish is pushing the rod/worm drive into the jack arm as opposed to pulling it.
That would be preferable CJ ..but is such a thing actually do-able with an Offset ?
Even the commercial unit 1224 jack looks to be in tension rather than compression ...once a large dish is mounted that is.
 

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Trickier...you would need to put the jack at the bottom of the dish, rather than the top.
 

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You mean like this? Taken before I reinforced the motor casing having already suffered one failure.
 

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Captain Jack

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Brilliant, Paul!
 

Vipersan

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The Sun is still out and very bright but actually very cold indeed in the shade..
Still I have been out and fitted a third M6 bolt / mount point for the re-enforcing plate I hope to fit under the motor and extend backwards ..
Time to start my search for a suitable plate ..
I want to use a stainless steel plate min thickness 0.6mm ...preferably 0.8 or even 1cm..
about 9 inches wide and 12 inches (min) long ..
No doubt this will cost me a fair bit ...unless one of you guys work in the industry and can source an offcut that wont break my bank ?
lol
Most of the centre area of the plate will be cut away for the motors mount on the pole..
Hence the reason why it has to be thick steel.
 

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RimaNTSS

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I want to use a stainless steel plate min thickness 0.6mm ...preferably 0.8 or even 1cm..
I also like steel, especially Stainless, but found out that aluminum is also hard enough, easy to work with, light and not so expensive. For 262 x 262 x 10mm plate and couple of angles with all cutting work payed less than 20 EUR.
 

Vipersan

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I also like steel, especially Stainless, but found out that aluminum is also hard enough, easy to work with, light and not so expensive. For 262 x 262 x 10mm plate and couple of angles with all cutting work payed less than 20 EUR.
Cheers Rima ...but would 10mm Aluminium be strong enough not to bend and or break when the lifting force of a Jack is applied about 12 inches from the fulcrum ....particularly with all that counterweight from the dish and LNBs ?
Also are there different grades of Aluminium ..?
If so which would be most suitable for this job.
 

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I do not know, but holding in hands such aluminum plate I tend to say- most likely Yes. There are also 12-15-...any thickness available. In your case, instead of plate (if you going to cut big hole inside) you better use angles and weld them together?
 

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I do not know, but holding in hands such aluminum plate I tend to say- most likely Yes. There are also 12-15-...any thickness available. In your case, instead of plate (if you going to cut big hole inside) you better use angles and weld them together?
Welding isn't an option ..
..at least ..not for me personally.
Certainly not Ally ...as it is at best a specialised task ..
 

RimaNTSS

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No, speaking about using angles I did mean Stainless steel ones.
 

Vipersan

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I can't believe how damned cold it's gone outside for August ..
But ..got a few more bolts in place ..
Sadly not easy to get a second one in on the right side ...
You can see from the photo it's at a slight angle so might have to use a thinner bolt here ..
Maybe an M5 ..all others being M6
But managed 3 along the back edge after I shifted the connection block a little further to the right ..indicated with a yellow arrow..
Bolts shown from the top ringed in Red ..
2 not being visible under the top plastic hood.
I've decided to make the frame in regular steel angle and paint it ..
To this end I have a lump on order 50x50x1500 & 5mm thick ..
rgds
VS
 

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Vipersan

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Cold AND Wet out there tonight ..
But had to brave it and fit the bottom fulcrum for the jack ..as the 5 inch exhaust support brackets I ordered arrived this morning..
A thick piece of ally I had in my junk box ..and the bottom section of the dish tripod/wall mount I got way back when I bought the Gibby 1.25 from a nice chap in blackpool..
Nothing goes to waste here..
;)
 

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