Jaeger 1224 Motor Settings

WHATAGOAL1

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what would be the correct jaeger motor angle fr 52.6° N, 1.1° W setup on thor?, just noticed mine doesnt peak after hotbird?
 
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Lazarus

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^^^^^^

This needs its own Topic.

I'll sort it out in a few minutes.


Edit: Now done :)
 

Mickha

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You beat me to it, I noticed it and had to leave, and return later, to sort it out:)

The Jaeger 1224 isn't the same as a Usals motor, but you have a good advantage, given your Longitudal position, True South, as you can set it up on 1W.
If you have your dish on a ground mounted system it makes it easier, as the minor adjustments take some time.

First start with the basics, ensure the pole is plumb, and strong enough, to take the weight of the motor, and dish.
Next set everything to 0, the motor, dish, and LNB.
Physically moe the dish/motor to get the best possibe signal, on 1W, also adjusting the dish elevation.
When satisfied drive the dish, using Diseqc 1.2, on your receiver, to East satellites, storing them as you go, 4.9E, 7E, 9E, 10E, 13E, 16E, 19.2E, 23.5E, 26E, 28.2E, 39E, 42E, checking the signal quality readings, as you go, then take the dish west to 30W.
You will then need to send the dish back to 1W, and make minor adjustments, to improve the signal quality readings.
You might also experience problems, tracking the satellite arc, due to the lip, on the 1224 motor, which makes it easier to install, on the pole, but usually doesn't sit quite right, to track the satellite arc, and might require some modifications.
Can you please upload some photographs, of the dish, motor, and pole.
Are you also using a V-BoxII?
william-1 has posted a strongest transponders thread, to assist in finding suitable satellites:
Just Sharing This - Strongest Transponders Oct 21st 2016
 
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WHATAGOAL1

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i will get the mrs to post some pictures tonight , that's a bit beyond me.
What is happening is that I have a cm and a cheap dish both 1.2 now the cheap dish is beating the cm on a blindscan after 10 east, so something is wrong, on 1 west there is a better signal on the cm, as you would expect.
So i think the motor angle is wrong, on the motor there is markings so think that this is wrong. Do I have to subtract something from my 52.6 location and start the motor there?
Yes I have vbox moving motor
 

Mickha

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Forget the motor elevation markings.
I can think of a few possible reasons, why the cheap dish is beating the Channel Master:
1. The CM is heavier and the pole isn't sturdy enough, for the weight.
2. The CM dish is damaged/warped.
3. The LNB/Feedhorn isn't set correctly.

The Jaeger 1224, has two adjustments, you can make:
The Large bolt, at the bottom, and the smaller one, on the top.
You keep adjusting both of these, to get the motor to track the satellite arc, correctly, but as stated the lip can cause a problem, and make it tricky to get it tracking completely.
You have to always move the dish back to your True South, in your case 1W, to make the adjustments, then send your dish East, and West, to check the signal quality levels.

Hopefully some photographs will make it easier, to spot where the problem might lie.
 

moonbase

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WHATGOAL1,

If you have a digital inclinometer/protractor you can try the following method to see if it gets you sorted out. If you do not have a digital inclinometer/protractor they are relatively cheap to buy and very useful for aligning satellite dishes.

1. Use your prositioner/v-box to get the top rotating plate of the Jaeger 1224 pointing straight ahead with respect to the motor casing. Get the sides of the top plate to be parallel with the sides of the casing. This should get the motor pointing at its zenith and the scale on the top cover should indicate approximately 0 degrees. Do not use the scale on the motor as an accurate guide, its only approximate.

2. Assuming you have done 1. above, loosen the bolt heads that lock the top plate into place and also the declination adjustment nut/bolts on the top plate, stand behind the motor and pull the top plate towards you as far as it will come, tighten the bolts to lock it in place. This action has removed all of the declination angle.

3. If you are using a v-box that gives approximately 12 clicks per degree, move the dish 10 clicks West, this should get your motor pointing 0.8 West from its Zenith position. Please note you are not automatically pointing at 0.8 West, its just that the motor is now 0.8 West from its Zenith.

4. This is a combination procedure, locate the satellite at 0.8 West so that you have a picture from one of the free to air channels from 0.8 West. To locate 0.8 West you need to physically rotate the entire motor and dish on the pole and adjust the large elevation bolt fixed underneath the motor. Once you have found 0.8 West, peak the signal to its maximum strength. Tighten up the pole clamp bolts. You should now be on 0.8 West with declination angle of 0.0 degrees and the elevation angle relevant to your location.

5. Using a digital inclinometer/protractor, measure the dish face angle or use a suitable point on the back of the dish the get the dish face angle, make a note of the angle.

6. The dish face angle needs to be adjusted by 6.8 degrees. For example, if the dish face angle is 52 degrees, slacken off the bolts on the top plate and using the declination bolt nuts adjust it so that the dish points lower until the dish face angle is 58.8 degrees. Lock all the bolts on the top plate, you have now set the declination angle at 6.8 degrees.

7. The adjustment made in 6. above will have lost the picture. Using the large elevation bolt under the motor, raise the dish back up until the picture returns and it at its peak signal strength.

Job done.


Note: The large elevation bolt adjusts the elevation angle be approximately 1 degree for each full turn of the hex nut on its thread. This might be useful to know just in case you get "lost" messing around with angles.

Your dish face angle will be lower than the example I have used, I used a prime focus dish angle. Just use the dish face angle you get yourself. The important angle is the declination offset angle of 6.8 degrees which is specific to your location.

I might have missed something in the above as it was quite a lot to type out as a walk through, if you get stuck or have any questions I will check the topic later. There are plenty of other clued up "angle men" on the forum so you might get a simpler and quicker method from another member.


Rgds
 
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WHATAGOAL1

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So I peak thor with the top plate fixed at the start of slots, then lower the eleavation bolt by just under 7 turns
then peak thor again by moving dish up, am I reading you right?
 

moonbase

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So I peak thor with the top plate fixed at the start of slots, then lower the eleavation bolt by just under 7 turns
then peak thor again by moving dish up, am I reading you right?


No, you peak 0.8 West with the plate fixed at the start of the slots and then you deliberately lose the picture by moving the top plate away from you by 6.8 degrees using the small threaded bolt on the top plate by adjusting the nuts on it. This has the effect of lowering the dish by 6.8 degrees. You then tighten all the nuts and bolts on the top plate and this locks in the declination angle at 6.8 degrees.

You then use the large elevation bolt under the motor to raise the dish back up to a picture and peak it.


Rgds
 

Lazarus

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So, Twin Peaks? :oops:
 

moonbase

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WHATAGOAL1

You need an accurate measure of the angles, you cannot estimate them by the number of turns of a nut on a bolt. If you read my first reply you can see that I said the method required a digital inclinometer/protractor.


Rgds
 

WHATAGOAL1

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cheers moonbase, luckily just

left it for the day peaked on 0.8 with the slots at the top.Will do the 6.8 degrees tomorrow, is there a way to measure 6.8 without an digital inclinometer/protractor ?
 

WHATAGOAL1

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Trust

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cheers moonbase, luckily just

left it for the day peaked on 0.8 with the slots at the top.Will do the 6.8 degrees tomorrow, is there a way to measure 6.8 without an digital inclinometer/protractor ?
Use a piece of cardboard with that angle together with a lever
 
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