Just Acquired A 1.2M Channel Master

I am not saying that using of already existing holes is mandatory :-shifty
 
Huevos said:
P.S. what's on 70E.
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Nothing as far as I know but I'd rather not have the mount jammed against itself on 68.5E so a degree or two more gives a bit to play with.
 
martin-f said:
read post 137
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So what one more time? Find such a position of hole (drill new one) that existing actuator moves your antenna from 70*E to 45*W (or even more if something more visible).
 
if i made a hole to make it go more E i would lose more W, a 12 inch actuator wont do the job without bodging it, i am not sure if an offset dish uses more travel but i am telling you it will not work,

its my money and if thats what i want/need i will buy it, i cant see a problem with that ?.
 
You bet Martin, 18' actuator will do the job, however 12' could also do same job :-nuts but not so stable like 18'.
And, BTW, tuning of polar-mount is better without actuator, and only when you get proper arc than actuator should be installed. This is applicable to antennas which could be easily reached (I think it is your case).
 
martin-f weren't you considering upgrading your dish, in the future, to a 1.8M Channel Master? If so you might as well consider getting a motor suitable for that, as well as your current 1.2M.
Not having had the pleasure for a 1.8M, I'll leave it to the experts to confirm an 18" will work.
 
yes mick, i will be upgrading when money permits, i will give the shop a call monday and tell them what i have atm and what i will be having the 18 heavy duty is out of stock and they are pointing you to the 24 instead,
 
24" is an overkill on 1.2m dish in my opinion. However, it will do what you want and you can reuse it on a 1.8m dish later. Unless you'll want to keep the 1.2m alongside the 1.8m ... ;)
 
Captain Jack said:
24" is an overkill on 1.2m dish in my opinion. However, it will do what you want and you can reuse it on a 1.8m dish later. Unless you'll want to keep the 1.2m alongside the 1.8m ... ;)
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agree with C.J here for the 1.2 --
but would use a "heavy duty" 24 in (or possibly larger if you have a very wide arc view) for a 1.8 -- i.m using a standard 24 in on a 1.8 and although it does the job -- its not that old and i,v had to replace the screw-rod bearing last year --

will buy heavy duty next time - l.o.l.

regards
 
thanks lads,

ive only checked one supplier and the heavy duty 18 is not in stock, i will see if i can locate one from elsewhere and worry about the bigger dish when it arrives, if i have no problems from neighbours i will keep the 1.2 c/j.
 
I'm using a 24" heavy-duty on my Gibi. Uses 18" of the stroke to get from 57E to 58W. The thing with the heavy-duty is it is only 32 counts per inch (compared to 56 counts for the standard-duty actuator). At the far west end of the arc (actuator on the east side of the dish) that translates into only 3 counts per degree of arc.

I don't see any reason not to use a 24" unless it causes some sort of mechanical interference, and as long as the limit switches are properly adjusted.
 
Huevos said:
The thing with the heavy-duty is it is only 32 counts per inch (compared to 56 counts for the standard-duty actuator).
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Is this just down to the number of magnets on the magnet wheel? My heavy duty actuator is 48PPI but has them offset so the steps alternate one long and one short movement.
 
aceb said:
Is this just down to the number of magnets on the magnet wheel? My heavy duty actuator is 48PPI but has them offset so the steps alternate one long and one short movement.
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Yes. Jaegar heavy-duty is 32 counts per inch. If you use a G-box (Clarke-Tech) it doubles this as it counts the opening and the closing of the reed-switch.
 
thankyou lads, i presume you can still juggle inbetween big and little steps to fine tune ? like 1 big step then 2 little steps then 1 big step back ?
 
martin-f said:
thankyou lads, i presume you can still juggle inbetween big and little steps to fine tune ? like 1 big step then 2 little steps then 1 big step back ?
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No. The step size is governed by the magnetic wheel. No way for you to choose the size. Reason for big and small steps is that the slice of the pie (wheel) that is magnetic is a different size compared to the slice that is non-magnetic. In the scheme of things though they are both small steps. Even in the case of the far west end of the arc only having 3 steps per degree that still allows you to get within 0º to 0.16º of nailing any satellite. And at the east end of the arc things are much more accurate.
 
thankyou huevos :-),

i had the motor to bits the other day and thought the magnet was for catching any lose metal that might get into the gogs lmao now.
 
Hi m8 Dish looking good . the pic at the top of the page Looks like my dsh . looking forward to getting started on my project. had the pressure wash on the dish face today & it came up pretty clean. ill post pics.
Rich
 
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