Just Say No..?

I'll check again buddy ...but didn't see it when I unpacked it ..
Cheers
 
Lol
Close call that one ..
Found it taped to the polystyrene packing ..which I'd already binned ..
Damn these old eyes ...and my hasty supidity...
White on White ...just didn't spot it ..
Still ...
I will still attempt the part creation ..since I've already ordered the silicon..
I need to master this technique anyway ..
..and it can't hurt to have spares.
:)
cheers
buddy..
 
Should keep you busy, at least for for a few days.
 
I think you need a 3D printer laying about , it could come in handy with a lot of projects ...
 
Unbelievable. Your creativity and resourcefulness never ceases to amaze me.
Mirrored by many here I know for sure ......total respect. respect-048.gif
 
So ..I need to get some good quality penetrating oil ...
Thought I had some but 'tis empty ..
In the meantime I set this up to attempt the big pull ..
Question for Trust really ..
Do you think this will suffice ?
Or will it require more ?

The motor donated by Mickha aint anything like as rusted and corroded as the one I have (in bits)
Cheers
VS
 

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Looks like something Ed China might do, on Wheeler Dealers, but he's got a lot of handy tools, to play with.
 
So ..I need to get some good quality penetrating oil ...
Thought I had some but 'tis empty ..
In the meantime I set this up to attempt the big pull ..
Question for Trust really ..
Do you think this will suffice ?
Or will it require more
The copper pipe joiner may be a bit soft and start compressing when you apply the pulling force, if it does substitute it with steel pipe or a couple of large nuts.
 
So ..I need to get some good quality penetrating oil

Over the few years working with old parts mainly before/after leaving school, a good old soak in diesel fuel for a day or so, is better than anything if you cant use heat, an old diesel mechanic told me this and it works a treat :).
 
Over the few years working with old parts mainly before/after leaving school, a good old soak in diesel fuel for a day or so, is better than anything if you cant use heat, an old diesel mechanic told me this and it works a treat :).
Problem is that so little of the pin is exposed ...
ie ..only the threaded part sticking out of the motor ..
Soaking isn't really an option ...
I have ordered a couple of 30mm long M10 studding nuts ..which will give me a bit more to grab and pull ..
I intend to fill the 'well' around the threaded end of the cotter pin ..
scew on the studding m10 nut and apply a 1/4 turn per day with a daily application of penetrating oil ..
No heroics here ..
I've already sheared the thread off the original cotter pin on the motor I got first..
maybe a slow approach over days might free it without shearing ..
No guarantees tho'
It's a bitch of a job so how you look at it.

The aerosol I ordered _claims_ to dissolve rust and corrosion ...
But has to penetrate deep enough to do its job..
..gentle tapping on a long grub screw from the opposite site may also help.
we shall see.
rgds
VS
 
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Problem is that so little of the pin is exposed ...
ie ..only the threaded part sticking out of the motor ..
Soaking isn't really an option ...

Just put it in a container and fill it with diesel and leave it, I have had it before on other items lots of times, the monkey/ali oxidises on to the metal, its up to you VS but it works :)

I will leave you with it:).
 
Just put it in a container and fill it with diesel and leave it, I have had it before on other items lots of times, the monkey/ali oxidises on to the metal, its up to you VS but it works :)

I will leave you with it:).
I don't doubt you Martin ...
My worry is for all the plastics and how they might react to diesel ..
Plus I'd need quite a lot of diesel and a big container to submerge the whole motor ..
lol
 
It wont hurt anything VS, it will do any parts good rather than damage its the safest way of doing it without damage, but like I say I will leave you with it pal:)
 
Diesel is light oil, oil comes in plastic bottles without causing any damage. hopefully :)
 
OK ...I need some more info now ..
Is the triangle lump just pushed on to the main cog shaft ?
Does it have a flat on the shaft thus removal has to be at right angles to the main cog ? ...or can it be rotated on the shaft to free it ..
Even though I have successfully removed the pin ...the triangle wont easily come off ..and I dont want to damage the internal gearing ..
So a little info may help ..
Over to you Trust ..

and btw I suspect I have stripped the the last few mm of the cotter pin thread more than I would have liked ..
Hopefully this wont prevent re-fitting the pin too much..
rgds
VS
 

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VS , that pin is the only thing thats keeping that triangle part fixed to the axle .
Maybe heaten it a little with a burner or a electric paint stripper and try to turn it by hammering with a non iron hammer .
 
Cheers buddy Ill try that tomorrow ..
probably just rust holding it now ..
rgds
VS
 
Is that crack all the way through or just surface? Was thinking that if it is all the way through the wind might make it worse over time but what do I know?
 
This morning I finally got the triangular lump off the gear shaft ..
Man ..that was tight on there ..
Not sure which has harder ..
removing the triangle ...or removing the cotter pin ..
BOTH were a swine to do ..and took many tays and lots of patience..
rgds
VS

..oh ..used a blowlamp (damaging the powder coating) ...the easing oil I bought for the job ..
Rapid Heating and cooling plus various wooden and metal wedges ...and finally large spanners as levers
 

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