Kitchen Mixer Tap (Failed)

Lazarus

Lazarus

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We've an old kitchen mixer tap that, despite being dismantled and cleaned a few times, persists in dripping.

It's also tarnished and a bit shabby.

So after three or four years of procrastination, I bought a new one (Cheap jobbie for £20) and set the day aside to tackle this half-hour task.

After ninety minutes removing the old one I started fitting the new.

Of course, these days, they come with detachable flexible hoses that fit to the tap body via a microscopic "O" Ring or two.

Destructions say, do not force the connectors.

Omits to say how tight they should be, though.

I did them up finger tight then applied a tweak of 10mm ring spanner.

Finished off the plumbing and turned on.

Worked just fine ................... for about half an hour. Then started leaking at high pressure.

Ok, remove tap, tweak hoses at tap body end, refit.

Worse.

Remove hoses >>> first washer (of two) chewed and mangled.

Applied liberal amounts of Plumber's Blue which seems ok before the taps were opened, and even whilst they were running.

But as soon as I turned them off, the leak started again: It's as if the act of turning off compresses the small amount of water in the body to a considerable extent.

Everything I subsequently did made it worse.

So I'm going to refit the old one tomorrow and, in due course, see if I can find a large bag of microscopic "O" rings.

Can't win them all!
 
TBH, i never use a spanner on them tivu just hand tight as it does state on most of them, the problem with the cheap ones is the thread it cuts into the o ring, a little filing will stop it.
 
I think you've hit the tack on the bonce there, Martin.

Mind you, as it seems you should fit the tails before mounting the tap ('cos you can't get at the 10mm flats afterwards), I cannot really understand why the tails aren't welded/otherwise permanent.

Anyway, it can go in the spares box until I get the enthusiasm to have another go (Probably by permanently fixing them with some substance or other).

Although cheap, the tap is actually quite nice.
 
Tivù said:
I think you've hit the tack on the bonce there, Martin.

Mind you, as it seems you should fit the tails before mounting the tap ('cos you can't get at the 10mm flats afterwards), I cannot really understand why the tails aren't welded/otherwise permanent.

Anyway, it can go in the spares box until I get the enthusiasm to have another go (Probably by permanently fixing them with some substance or other).

Although cheap, the tap is actually quite nice.
Click to expand...
Tivù said:
We've an old kitchen mixer tap that, despite being dismantled and cleaned a few times, persists in dripping.

It's also tarnished and a bit shabby.

So after three or four years of procrastination, I bought a new one (Cheap jobbie for £20) and set the day aside to tackle this half-hour task.

After ninety minutes removing the old one I started fitting the new.

Of course, these days, they come with detachable flexible hoses that fit to the tap body via a microscopic "O" Ring or two.

Destructions say, do not force the connectors.

Omits to say how tight they should be, though.

I did them up finger tight then applied a tweak of 10mm ring spanner.

Finished off the plumbing and turned on.

Worked just fine ................... for about half an hour. Then started leaking at high pressure.

Ok, remove tap, tweak hoses at tap body end, refit.

Worse.

Remove hoses >>> first washer (of two) chewed and mangled.

Applied liberal amounts of Plumber's Blue which seems ok before the taps were opened, and even whilst they were running.

But as soon as I turned them off, the leak started again: It's as if the act of turning off compresses the small amount of water in the body to a considerable extent.

Everything I subsequently did made it worse.

So I'm going to refit the old one tomorrow and, in due course, see if I can find a large bag of microscopic "O" rings.

Can't win them all!
Click to expand...

Simple. Fork out for a Perrin and Rowe mixer. After 15 years replace the ceramic disc valves. Life is too short for faffing about with cheapos.
 
Well yes, but then

a. I couldn't possibly afford it

and

b. I'd probably bu**er it up as well! :-doh
 
Oh, and

c. I like faffing about (In a perverse sort of way) :-deadhorse
 
Not all flexis's have a 10mm nut, most don't have one, it should always be hand tight, yes pal always fit the flexi before the tap, my main line of work is fitting kitchens and bathrooms.
 
Ok, well the question now is ....................... what's the cheapest and most effective method for rendering the joint permanent and leakproof bearing in mind Plumber's Blue doesn't work despite being rated to 5000 psi!
 
Tivù said:
Ok, well the question now is ....................... what's the cheapest and most effective method for rendering the joint permanent and leakproof bearing in mind Plumber's Blue doesn't work despite being rated to 5000 psi!
Click to expand...
You don't have an option to make it permanent and leak proof G sorry, you can get copper pipe ones that still have the o ring.
 
Ok.

Just finding generic packs of spare O Rings on Fleabay.

Must confirm the size tomorrow - but boy are they small: 3 or 4mm Internal dia, at a guess.
 
You will have to replace the damaged o rings, where the thread starts on the mixer tap you will find a sharp point that needs filing, give it a file then screw the pipes in and out and make sure you have no damage on the new o rings,

If all is well refit the tap, I have some o rings if you want them sending up tivu,
 
Thankyou, Martin: I should perhaps have had this discussion with you before I started! Fortunately, I have a pouch of mini-files.

The O Rings do seem very inexpensive, so I'll try to source some from fleabay (In quantity, so I have plenty of spares) : Don't want to trouble you just yet, but will bear your kind offer in mind should I continue to fork it up!

But, to save me getting the size wrong, as you have spares, can you tell me the size and thickness? (I have fittings with two O Rings per tail, although most seem to have only one).
 
Don't use a spanner on them tivu, just turn the flexi until it spins on its self, over tightening can split the o rings.
Its not a problem me posting you them up just pm me your addy, but for the size of top of my head I have no idea I will have to check in the morning, I have seen some with 3 rings before tivu.
 
Anyway, whilst I was at it, I did succeed in fitting some Isolation Valves under the Kitchen Sink (Compression/Copper Pipework) and to my Electric Shower (Speedfit and Plastic).

The day was not a total write off ;)
 
Tivù said:
Ok, well the question now is ....................... what's the cheapest and most effective method for rendering the joint permanent and leakproof bearing in mind Plumber's Blue doesn't work despite being rated to 5000 psi!
Click to expand...

Some 10mm pipe and four L bend compressions, and turn off the water at the mains when not needed.

I built an oil cooler for my Ducati with some when the original failed - spectacularly - throwing lubricant down the fairing base section and straight into the path of the rear wheel. Never let me down since
 
I've got a couple of self-cutting taps to fit for the washing machine, never done live plumbing before and I'm bound to screw it up I'm sure, also have to fit some drainage plumbing for the dishwasher at the beginning of February, cos we've been using that like a twintub since it arrived with it sat infront of and draining into the sink... :D

Just need the 40mm plastic pipe and I can get to work, but it's presently locked in a shed that I don't have a key to... :-doh
 
Most DIY tasks I tackle result in me swearing copiously. My colleagues would probably argue that most things I do at work result in me swearing copiously as well (I must be doing something right if I can offend even French speakers with my English tirades), but the two tasks that result in me swearing the most are fitting ******* taps and changing ******* car headlight bulbs (this never takes me less than an hour, involves removing parts of the car that I'd really rather not remove and invariably results in skinned hands). I have the right tools for both tasks yet find them both ... challenging (to put it politely).

If I ever meet the genius who designs cars (in my case he works for Renault, so probably isn't a million km from where I am) so that it is impossible to quickly and painlessly replace the bulbs then he will himself discover how long it takes the surgeon to extract a 1/2" socket set from his own engine compartment.
 
2cvbloke said:
I've got a couple of self-cutting taps to fit for the washing machine, never done live plumbing before and I'm bound to screw it up I'm sure, also have to fit some drainage plumbing for the dishwasher at the beginning of February, cos we've been using that like a twintub since it arrived with it sat infront of and draining into the sink... :D

Just need the 40mm plastic pipe and I can get to work, but it's presently locked in a shed that I don't have a key to... :-doh
Click to expand...
Don't fit them they will leak, cut the pipe and use push fit is a better option,
 
martin-f said:
Don't fit them they will leak, cut the pipe and use push fit is a better option,
Click to expand...

I would have cone for those, but, I haven't the tools to cut copper pipe, and I don't fancy shelling out to have the kitchen re-plumbed when I screw it up... :P
 
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