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Hakon said:
I've been looking too much at your postings 8)
I've been looking too much at your postings 8)
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Now that it's been up for a fortnight or so, I needed to check if anything has settled (e.g. soil, sand, wood, mount screws), but I am happy to conclude that it's still same as it was when I fastened everything (phew).
Only thing is - still can't do ITV3 and +1 on 10906V. No amont of careful fiddling with skew or in-out position of LNB improved things beyond the original settings. Strangely, if you go by the numbers on the meter, the carrier-to-noise and MER is roughly the same on this transponder as on others, but the signal is clearly not as good when seen by the receiver (that's both the ProMax and the FoxSat).
I wonder if kitschcamp has similar experience, after all he has same dish and is roughly in the similar location (although different LN
...
But I can live with this. The signal is optimal now on the BBC transponder, and works fine for ITV[1|2]/Channel[4|5], that's good enough for us.
Only thing is - still can't do ITV3 and +1 on 10906V. No amont of careful fiddling with skew or in-out position of LNB improved things beyond the original settings. Strangely, if you go by the numbers on the meter, the carrier-to-noise and MER is roughly the same on this transponder as on others, but the signal is clearly not as good when seen by the receiver (that's both the ProMax and the FoxSat).
I wonder if kitschcamp has similar experience, after all he has same dish and is roughly in the similar location (although different LN
... But I can live with this. The signal is optimal now on the BBC transponder, and works fine for ITV[1|2]/Channel[4|5], that's good enough for us.
Chrisby
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- My Satellite Setup
- Gilbertini 120 + Digiality Platinum 0.3 LNB + Fortec Star Passion HD for Astra 2D. Wave Frontier Gregorian 90 x 3 LNBs.
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- Mid Denmark
Hi
Congratulations on an excellent set up.
Odd you can't get ITV3 and +1.
All 2D channels solid as a rock, regardless of weather, here on W.Fyn.
We're using a 120cm Gilbertini dish with any reasonable LNB and Fortec Star Passion HD receiver.
Congratulations on an excellent set up.
Odd you can't get ITV3 and +1.
All 2D channels solid as a rock, regardless of weather, here on W.Fyn.
We're using a 120cm Gilbertini dish with any reasonable LNB and Fortec Star Passion HD receiver.
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TM 5402HD
Sky+ UK.
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Chrisby please fill your location in properly - we dont permit daft locations now - it causes too many problems when folks ask technical questions that could be affected by where they live.
(We ask you put your nearest big town or your county in the UK/western Europe, the country outside west Europe.)
As an admin I can see you are in Denmark from your IP address but that doesnt help normal members.
(We ask you put your nearest big town or your county in the UK/western Europe, the country outside west Europe.)
As an admin I can see you are in Denmark from your IP address but that doesnt help normal members.
Chrisby
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- Gilbertini 120 + Digiality Platinum 0.3 LNB + Fortec Star Passion HD for Astra 2D. Wave Frontier Gregorian 90 x 3 LNBs.
- My Location
- Mid Denmark
As you have used pressure treated lumber for your cross ties I would backfill with large (say 2") gravel to keep everything as dry as possible. I used 4"" x 4" pressure treated timber as a base for our greenhouse and it has all but rotted away inside ten years just resting on sand. You should probably use another layer of waterproofing over the construction before the gravel goes in. The big gravel don't migrate across the lawn when you are mowing and is easily removed if you want to check your construction.
Clever idea to use pre-cast, post anchors. My Gilbertini blew over in a typical Danish storm. Now its massive, cast iron, drawing board stand is held down with an ugly stack of concrete fence posts. Though it hasn't moved in years!
I may well borrow your anchor idea to get rid of my ugly, concrete posts. :-righton
Clever idea to use pre-cast, post anchors. My Gilbertini blew over in a typical Danish storm. Now its massive, cast iron, drawing board stand is held down with an ugly stack of concrete fence posts. Though it hasn't moved in years!
I may well borrow your anchor idea to get rid of my ugly, concrete posts. :-righton
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Chrisby said:
Still no ITV3. Not sure why this is different, but apparently it's just under the threshold... tried lots but to no avail...
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Chrisby said:As you have used pressure treated lumber for your cross ties I would backfill with large (say 2") gravel to keep everything as dry as possible. I used 4"" x 4" pressure treated timber as a base for our greenhouse and it has all but rotted away inside ten years just resting on sand. You should probably use another layer of waterproofing over the construction before the gravel goes in. The big gravel don't migrate across the lawn when you are mowing and is easily removed if you want to check your construction.
Clever idea to use pre-cast, post anchors. My Gilbertini blew over in a typical Danish storm. Now its massive, cast iron, drawing board stand is held down with an ugly stack of concrete fence posts. Though it hasn't moved in years!
View attachment 36033
I may well borrow your anchor idea to get rid of my ugly, concrete posts. :-righton
Thanks for the tip on the gravel - worth checking out. I have covered the pressured-treated lumber in plastic, so it would be obvious to cover it in pebbles or large-garin gravel as you say. Was even considering leveaing it as is with a wooden cover. Not sure yet, need to be aligned iwth SWMBO.
Re mount: Yes, I deliberately chose an mounting that should (fingers crossed) withstand the average Danish Storm. Time will tell. Re the option of using pre-cast pole-mounts: Putting up-to-ward a ton of concrete in the ground just seems so, well, massive. Hope this stuff works. At Least it is better than the sick Fortec-star mount - after the storm I had to pick up the debris from the corner of garden, and drive it to thejunk yard...
Daniel Barnes
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I really like this setup, I was kinda thinking of doing something like this for my install.
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Cabling update (1/2) to this installation:
Late in the summer, I re-did the cables for the dish to provide a more discrete look and feel (no over-lawn cabling).
The duct for under-lawn placement is actually a water hose for garden-features; this felt much stronger than the normal cable conduits.
Tried to do as little damage as possible to the lawn - hence the digging up on three sides, and flipping the turf over on the fourth. For some reason, there was an enormous amounts of roots in the lawn, considering that there are not *that* many trees around. This meant that the trench is more shallow than I intended, but i figure it's deep enough to survive the average garden implement.
The cabling is now 4 x quad-shielded 25 meter cable.
I made the cable-loom first using cable-ties before dragging through the conduit. Of course it turned out that cables + cable ties didn't easily go through the hose. Had to trim the cable ties very neatly to get them through.
Put conduit in trench and covered up as well as I could, hoping the scars would not be too visible...
With the new cabling, I get slightly better strength and quality from all channels, clearly due to better cable quality (previous run was also 25 meter but only double shielded).
Late in the summer, I re-did the cables for the dish to provide a more discrete look and feel (no over-lawn cabling).
The duct for under-lawn placement is actually a water hose for garden-features; this felt much stronger than the normal cable conduits.
Tried to do as little damage as possible to the lawn - hence the digging up on three sides, and flipping the turf over on the fourth. For some reason, there was an enormous amounts of roots in the lawn, considering that there are not *that* many trees around. This meant that the trench is more shallow than I intended, but i figure it's deep enough to survive the average garden implement.
The cabling is now 4 x quad-shielded 25 meter cable.
I made the cable-loom first using cable-ties before dragging through the conduit. Of course it turned out that cables + cable ties didn't easily go through the hose. Had to trim the cable ties very neatly to get them through.
Put conduit in trench and covered up as well as I could, hoping the scars would not be too visible...
With the new cabling, I get slightly better strength and quality from all channels, clearly due to better cable quality (previous run was also 25 meter but only double shielded).
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Cabling update (2/2) to this installation:
...a couple of months later.
Quite pleased with the way you can't see the digging (even with the leaves removed!)
Cable running under roof overhang is temporary until we get the cables into the wall sometime next year.
...a couple of months later.
Quite pleased with the way you can't see the digging (even with the leaves removed!)
Cable running under roof overhang is temporary until we get the cables into the wall sometime next year.
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Captain Jack
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Very tidy!
What's that dish lying on the ground in the first picture?
What's that dish lying on the ground in the first picture?
timo_w2s
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Nice. We made is similar trench last summer in preparation for Christmas lights to save hanging a load of cable across the garden. It's amazing how quickly the grass grows back to normal.
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Captain Jack said:
thanks! (My wife thinks I'm overdoing it. But I want to be sure i keeps working for as long as 2D is there.)
Captain Jack said:
It's a Channel Master 180. (I like CM180s
)
Captain Jack
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Do you get anything on 1N spotbeam? I kinda lost track after the threads became longer than War and Peace.
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Captain Jack said:
Yes, so far I received everything I've tried. But like you, I lost track myself after a couple of pages seemed to be added each day... but I'll have a look at the thread agai too see if there are new challenging frequenices I could try.
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jibali said:
Well, i'll be needing those measurements myself, but I thought I'd wait until spring.
We currently have -5 in the day and down to -15 at night, so it's not much fun being outdoors...
I'll try and see if I get a break to measure the arms for you during the next couple of days.
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Not knowing whether you are making your own mount or trying to replace the arms, I have made two different measurements; one is of the actual tubular arms, the other of the distance from reflector to front-of-lnb-holder.
Here are the measurements of the Channel Master Type 180 (Rx only) feed-arms on a -6 degree day, as well as can be done without taking the things apart:
The actual tubular arms
The CM180 has two side arms and a bottom arm.
The side arms are straight except for a flattened bit at the reflector end.
The flattened bit is bent at an angle compared to the arm.
The flattened bit has a hole in it accomodating a screw that attaches it to the reflector.
The end portion of the bottom arm is also bent, but not flattened.
The bottom arm fits into a plastic bracket, which in turn is screwed to the underside of the reflector.
(This is to allow cable to run through the actual tube).
The flattened bit of the side-arms are 70 mm, with the hole for attaching to the reflector 10 mm from the end.
The round part of the side arms as measured from where the 70 mm stops are 1470 mm long.
Both measures are taken in the middle of the (tubular) arm.
The bottom arm has a short leg and a long leg.
The short leg is about 95 mm measured from the back of the dish (and most likely shorter as the plastic bracket has a stop notch).
The long leg is about 1060 mm.
All three legs have welded pieces of metal with threading about 5 mm from the LNB holder end.
This is for the screws that attaches the LNB holder to the legs.
LNB distance
The distance from the front edge at the side of the reflector to the center of the front of the LNB holder is 1495 mm.
The distance from the front edge at the bottom of the reflector to the center of the front of the LNB holder is 1110 mm.
I hope this is usable / useful.
Here are the measurements of the Channel Master Type 180 (Rx only) feed-arms on a -6 degree day, as well as can be done without taking the things apart:
The actual tubular arms
The CM180 has two side arms and a bottom arm.
The side arms are straight except for a flattened bit at the reflector end.
The flattened bit is bent at an angle compared to the arm.
The flattened bit has a hole in it accomodating a screw that attaches it to the reflector.
The end portion of the bottom arm is also bent, but not flattened.
The bottom arm fits into a plastic bracket, which in turn is screwed to the underside of the reflector.
(This is to allow cable to run through the actual tube).
The flattened bit of the side-arms are 70 mm, with the hole for attaching to the reflector 10 mm from the end.
The round part of the side arms as measured from where the 70 mm stops are 1470 mm long.
Both measures are taken in the middle of the (tubular) arm.
The bottom arm has a short leg and a long leg.
The short leg is about 95 mm measured from the back of the dish (and most likely shorter as the plastic bracket has a stop notch).
The long leg is about 1060 mm.
All three legs have welded pieces of metal with threading about 5 mm from the LNB holder end.
This is for the screws that attaches the LNB holder to the legs.
LNB distance
The distance from the front edge at the side of the reflector to the center of the front of the LNB holder is 1495 mm.
The distance from the front edge at the bottom of the reflector to the center of the front of the LNB holder is 1110 mm.
I hope this is usable / useful.