Need a replacement power supply for Satlook Lite

[rbdaves]

I have a Satlook Lite satellite finder. This meter uses a power supply with specs of: 12v, 1.3a, 15.6w.

I've looked all over for a replacement power supply with these specs, but can't find anything. I called the vendor, Solid Signal, and they don't carry this power supply. They suggested that I talk to www.Emitor.se, which is Norwy, I think. The Emitor website is of no use. I have found a power supply on Amazon that has specs that are close: 12v, 1a, 12w. Will this work?

 

[Channel Hopper]

Always use a higher rating supply. Try for a 2A or even 2.5A and somewhere around 40W

 

[skomedal]

And remember plug output polarity ( center + or center - ) just to be sure, before buying.

Regards

 

[RimaNTSS]

For my Satlook 1,5A is working fine, and this is not original power supply. Usually those power supplies have + in the center of the plug. I took those from some old routers or something like that. If you are desperate to find proper one, I could send you that one 1,5A. Shipping price plus a beer.

 

[Channel Hopper]

For my Satlook 1,5A is working fine, and this is not original power supply. Usually those power supplies have + in the center of the plug. I took those from some old routers or something like that. If you are desperate to find proper one, I could send you that one 1,5A. Shipping price plus a beer.

Going to have to push a bit in a California socket.

 

[rbdaves]

For my Satlook 1,5A is working fine, and this is not original power supply. Usually those power supplies have + in the center of the plug. I took those from some old routers or something like that. If you are desperate to find proper one, I could send you that one 1,5A. Shipping price plus a beer.

Going to have to push a bit in a California socket.

Going to have to push a bit in a California socket.

don't

 

[rbdaves]

Don't understand statement about pushing harder

 

[jeallen01]

Agree that the replacement PSU output current spec needs to be > the OEM unit but probably the other most important aspect is the correct plug to fit the socket on the meter - measure the outer and inner diameters of the original plug. Most 12V plugs have a pretty standardised one with, IIRC, 5.5 mm outer and 2.1/2.1mm inner diameters and if the OE unit has those then it should be easy to find a replacement!
OTOH, you can buy a replacement plug for peanuts and fit that (assuming you have a soldering iron) to whichever PSU has the correct voltage/current specs.

 

[PaulR]

The power supply for my sat meter is AC not DC so check to make sure. Mind you, having said that a DC power supply (with the correct sized DC plug) worked perfectly when the internal transformer went O/C on the original PSU.

And I must disagree that most DC plugs are the same. When the original PSU blew I found another one with the same voltage, current capacity and AC output but with a different "DC" plug! Eventually I cracked both cases open and transferred the transformer across. Why didn't I just transfer the "DC" lead across? The moulded grommets going in to the casings were different.

 

[jeallen01]

Paul

To clarify about a replacement DC (or AC?) plug, what I meant was to fit that to the existing lead from the new PSU - a 5-10 min job that does not involve touching the PSU itself.

PS: Google "12v dc plug sizes" to see that there is some standardisation on this point

 

[PaulR]

I've been through DC plug sizes many times. Trying to get a suitable PSU for a Pure One Flow proved impossible and I had to change the socket on the radio itself to match a more readily available PSU as mentioned here.

Before that I've messed around with DC plugs on laptops. And there have been other times for other things that I'm struggling to remember.

 

[Channel Hopper]

Don't understand statement about pushing harder

Round pins

 

[Vipersan]

My Satlook Lite uses a +12v centre pin +ve 1.66A psu..
So much like an LCD portable TV dc power brick ..
If mine failed I'd use a 12v dc power brick at 4 amp ..like this one
For LED LCD Monitor Power Supply 12V 4A 48W AC Adapter Charger Supply | eBay
...I guess the only issue would be the plug size ...but then you could always do a cut n shut job with the lead off the original psu and some screw trminal connector block
rgds
VS

 

[rbdaves]

PaulIR: You wrote: "Eventually I cracked both cases open"

What did you do to open these cases? Dremel? - Knife? - pry open?

There's what looks like a seam around the middle of the power supply and I tried to pry the two sides apart without joy. I tried a knife, but that didn't look safe. So my next idea is to use a dremel.

Just looking for an easier way.

 

[PaulR]

There is no easy way.

Both were seam welded together (I think it's a high frequency welding process) and just had to work on the seem, as that's the weak point, with a large, sharp kitchen knife. I had to tap them gently with a small mallet to break the welds.

Once I had proved that everything worked I used some special two part adhesive that I have (for repairing plastic car bumpers) to stick the working one back together.

 

[Channel Hopper]

There is no easy way.

Both were seam welded together (I think it's a high frequency welding process) and just had to work on the seem, as that's the weak point, with a large, sharp kitchen knife. I had to tap them gently with a small mallet to break the welds.

Dropping them onto a hard floor usually works. If not, go up a floor and try again.

 

[Archive7]

I bought an Ansmann power supply last year and they come with several pluggable power plugs set.
http://www.ansmann.de/en/products/chargers-power-supplies/universal-power-supplies
The APS 1500 voltage can be set to any voltage between 3V-12V and rated 18W 12V 1500mA or you can go for the APS 2250 L for higher wattage.

 

[Terryl]

Radio Shack made a nice "Universal" power brick, it even came with a travel option, you could set it from 5 to 15 volts DC, it was rated at 2 amps and came with many different plug options, and polarity's.

Too bad they are gone for good now.

Now back to the power supply, be careful as to how high an amperage output you use on a substitute supply, some are not DC voltage regulated, some will dump a ton of amps into the device and when it gets to a saturated voltage on the battery's under charge may go over the design charging voltage of the battery pack.

I would not go over 25% of the old supply as far as amperage output.

Now some newer stuff may have a regulated charging circuit or output, then it does not matter.

To check the power pack to see if it is regulated just test it with a DVM without a DC load on it, if the rated DC voltage goes way above the labled output spec (15% or more) then you have an un-regulated supply.