Plumbing advice re outside garden tap

W

wod

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Are these straightforward for an average DIYer to fit ?

Seen some kits on eBay with copper pipe and compression fittings, isolation valve etc

This one eBay number 150788245803

I did fit my own sat dish which is still working so I should be fine with this.
 
Very easy.

Make sure, if the kit doesn't have enough supplied, you get a reel of PTFE tape: This not only helps the threads at joints seal properly, but by altering the number of turns applied you can adjust the attitude (Skew!!) of the outlet.
 
I have a query with it though.

Can you have two isolation valves on the cold water pipe ?

There is one already that goes up to the mixer tap on the sink.
 
No reason why not - but that tap isolator should only isolate the mixer tap.

ie Fit the kit so it has it's own isolator and is teed off from the cold water main at a point before the mixer tap's isolator.
 
Tivù said:
No reason why not - but that tap isolator should only isolate the mixer tap.

ie Fit the kit so it has it's own isolator and is teed off from the cold water main at a point before the mixer tap's isolator.
Click to expand...
The cold water mixer tap isolation valve is further up the cold water pipe.

where the valve for the outside tap would go, there is what I think is a shut off valve, the one with a flat screw in the middle which I think you turn it and it stops water going up the pipe ?

drilling the hole from inside a 16mm sds bit should work or 14mm as they over size holes anyway.
 
Don't forget to insulate the pipework properly just incase it freezes up in the winter, nothing worse than a split pipe and a geyser shooting out of the wall and into the cavities... :lol:

Speaking of outdoor taps, I really should put in a tap in the shed where the outdoor throne room used to be, pipe's still there and live, along with the remains of the split tap that used to be in there that must have frozen up in the past cos it wasn't insulated properly... :lol:
 
2cvbloke said:
Don't forget to insulate the pipework properly just incase it freezes up in the winter, nothing worse than a split pipe and a geyser shooting out of the wall and into the cavities..
Click to expand...
Insulate it on the outside or through the wall, I'll have to drill a larger hole to do that.
 
Outside preferably, but seal up the hole(s) you drill to keep the cold air out... :)

That foam stuff you can slip onto the pipes usually does fine, but make sure to tape it up to keep it secured in place and keep the slit in the foam at the bottom to keep the water out... :)

And you can also get tap covers that you just slip over the tap to keep it insulated from snow and ice... :)
 
You should fit an anti syphon valve these days as well, to stop dirty water getting back into the water supply.
 
The taps themselves generally have the anti-syphon integral, but I've not checked out wod's Item # to check.


Edit: Just looked - claims to be Water Regs Complaint ................. probably is!
 
the tap in the kit says its got a double check valve which i guess will stop any water getting back into the system.

the flexible hose piece included in the kit i'm unsure of incase of leaks but i could get some copper pipe and do it properly in i suppose ?

only after the tap so i can wash the bin and clean my mountain bikes.

some of the diy shop kits you screw into the water pipe and connect a hose thing outside, i didnt like the sound of that a bit cheap.
 
A lot of kitchen and bathroom fittings have those flexi-pipes to connect them to the copper pipes when they're in an awkward spot, the only real chance of leaking is from the compression joints at either end if not fitted properly, it's more for connecting the pipework from the supply to the pipe leading to the tap than going directly to the back of the tap... :)
 
I find them very frustrating. Five minutes after fitting them they start to drip and you have to ring them off harder and harder trying to stop it dripping. There's one in my garage. When I fill a bucket and turn off the tap I stand there for a few seconds, waiting for the last drips. then turn to walk away and after 3 paces the last drops come out onto the floor! Grrr!
 
You could fit one bucket inside another.
 
pgh13 said:
I find them very frustrating. Five minutes after fitting them they start to drip and you have to ring them off harder and harder trying to stop it dripping. There's one in my garage. When I fill a bucket and turn off the tap I stand there for a few seconds, waiting for the last drips. then turn to walk away and after 3 paces the last drops come out onto the floor! Grrr!
Click to expand...
The tap is going to be fitted above the drain that waste water from sink and washer goes into so not a problem with slight drips.
 
There's an easy solution to a drippy tap, put a small washing up bowl underneath the tap... :lol:
 
Good idea! It can act as a timer..... when it's full it's time to wash t'car.
 
Had a bit of experience of these kits in the past. Their not very good to be blunt. The screw pierces a small hole in the copper pipe. You wont always get good water flow because the hole is so small.

I would say for the average DIYer go buy a few push fit connections and do with these. It wont cost a lot. Im sure there will be plenty Youtube videos to assist.
 
Looking at the picture of the kit on ebay, it's not the pipe-piercing type, it's got a proper T-valve in the kit, requires cutting pipes, but it's a simple job to fit from the looks of things... :)
 
2cvbloke said:
Looking at the picture of the kit on ebay, it's not the pipe-piercing type, it's got a proper T-valve in the kit, requires cutting pipes, but it's a simple job to fit from the looks of things... :)
Click to expand...
where I will fit the valve I won't need to cut any pipes just swap a valve over to the new one.

Should I put ptfe tape over the threads of the new valve to make sure of no leaks or do they have internal o ring seals ?
 
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