Potentiometer instead of reed switch?!

Captain Jack

Captain Jack

Retired human
My Satellite Setup
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My Location
North Somerset
Hello,

So I implemented my declination control bracket and wired everything up. For declination control, I am using a 10" jack arm - but there's a problem. It doesn't have a reed switch. Instead, it has a potentiometer with 3 wires coming out of it. I have never seen this before. Needless to say, it doesn't work with the VBox.

So, I have two options. Change the potentiometer to a reed switch (how - conversion kit?) or use my 18" jack arm, which is an overkill for this purpose. I wouldn't mind shortening the jack arm but I am not sure how. Has anyone done it?

Thanks
CJ
 
Years ago I saw an episode of Scrapheap Challenge where they were refurbishing a dustcart. The only tipper piston they could find was too long at maximum extent and would damage the cart so they took the piston assembly apart and put a metal sleeve over the inner "rod" which had the effect of shortening the opening.

Would this work for you?
 
Ah, yes, I see what you mean. Well, the length itself isn't a problem - it's just it would be too heavy and over the top for what I needed it for.

Anyway, I ordered a new 8" jack now, which should hopefully do the job.
 
I think that instead of using short actuator is better to use long one. Just mounting points should be adjusted properly. But hen you could control elevation more precisely.
 
RimaNTSS said:
I think that instead of using short actuator is better to use long one. Just mounting points should be adjusted properly. But hen you could control elevation more precisely.
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That is impossible with my design as the actuator needs to be short enough to go past the mast. The only other way to deal with that is to put the actuator above the mast (or over complicate the design with some sort of pivoting system, or actuator that doesn't push directly).
 
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Mine is over the dish and 10 works but I only need around 2 inches of travel to switch between c band and ku band lnb

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