SuperMount AHM 36RL - Restyling

rancerote

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Drawing on the experiences reading in this and other forums, I decided to make a "global maintenance" on the HH of my system view that from about 20 years is there doing its work and I think it deserve this rejuvenation. Even the dish will undergo this treatment, for the moment I started with supermount in title.

I will try to be as pragmatic as possible, because the arguments are so many and varied that you are likely to never end ... !!! Sorry for my English approximated but is the result of the very useful google translator, if anyone knows better the technical terms of the individual components of the engine can suggest me the way I correct the 3D.

Just removing the SM looked like this

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Some details regarding the rust that is created in the course of decades

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Begins the removal of the bolts hex head relative to the actual motor and the covers left and right of the worm

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Extracting the non stop screw (don't know what's the correct name in english, I traslate from italian, someone can tell me the correct name ??)

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Detail of the rack which is moved by the non stop screw

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Here is shown a sequence where the extraction of the rack (not having photos of when she was done, I realized by placing the pieces already "clean")

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After a good cleaning rust helped by screwdriver & wire brush and the mythical sandpaper, I rehearsed the surfaces with cloth and nitro solvent to remove debris and degrease it properly. Here the pieces ready for painting. Since I'm still deciding on the color (which will not be black), I will post the pictures in a few days

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In this last picture you can see the stainless steel nuts that have replaced the original ones in inches
 

rancerote

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Below you can see the rack and non stop screw cleaned thoroughly, so I proceeded: I dipped the pieces in a bowl with hot water, baking soda and dish soap, soaked for an hour I proceeded to remove the residual fat and dirt with the aid of a brush. After being dried with a cloth and warm air from my phon I greased the bearings with PTFE grease as suggested by a friend of the forum which, unfortunately, can not remember the name but I thank him for the very useful advice.
In case the bearings are very soiled or full of dirt, soil, rust suggest immersing bath with gasoline for ten minutes or more depending on the needs, rotate occasionally the bearing to "escape" the dirt and with a toothbrush or small brush to finish off what is not desired
In the second picture you can see the "signs" left by two grains that blocked the head of the rack to the engine block, one I could unscrew it with a spray Svitol and gasoline while the other has not wanted to know, the rust had "welded" at its headquarters. Having ruined two hex keys and tried to twist parades screws from USAG resultless, for two days I tried to "consume" with the drill and special vanadium tip and, about the length of 6mm grain I had come to take a little more than half !!! (see photo below)
At this point a thought "decisive" takes possession of my mind: block all on the vise and helped by the famous "law of the jungle" (heavy hammer and awl 20mm) suddenly a sequence of shots are unleashed on the head of the rack and then trying to do less damage as possible and after several days of unsuccessful attempts, this time the grain was finally defeated !!!
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To avoid a repeat of the trouble, I proceeded to remake the thread in decimals as all locations in the motor are in inches and I replaced the grains with hex head bolts in stainless steel. I did the same thing where it was possible to replace the original bolts in inches with the decimal stainless steel, where it was not possible I proceeded to clean the original bolts from rust & dirt with the help of the grinding wheel bench and brush for metals, then cold zinc treatment hoping that last as long as possible, maybe someone has a suggestion for improving the "shield against rust" on the bolts ??

Next days I will post the disassembly of the engine, byez
 

RimaNTSS

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Very interesting, please continue
 

Trust

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rancerote

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@ rancerote , real name for the non stop screw is : Worm , the big wheel is named : Worm wheel together they are a worm gear

Thank for your teaching, how I can edit the post ?? I can not find the option in the 3D .....
 

RimaNTSS

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how I can edit the post ??
Do not worry, just go ahead. There are many not native speakers making many mistakes but everybody is understood (I hope so). :oops:
 

rancerote

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this makes me curious because as soon as the post is on the 3D there is the ability to edit ... maybe there is a time frame within which you can do it and after that it no possible ??
 

Captain Jack

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Yep, 1 hour to edit post. Don't worry though - you're perfectly understood :)
 

rancerote

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Proceeding in cleaning the HH, now I disassemble the heart of the motor

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Just unscrewed the intermediate piece comes the first surprise !! Several "guests" had chosen the motor just like home ....

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rancerote

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Armed with patience begin to dismantle one by one all the components of the engine to give them a full "cleaned & sanitized", here sideburns motor

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The rotor

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The brushes of the rotor

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The collars

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The Reed Sensor

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The micro switchs

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This week I start to paint the metal parts, I'm waiting for the powder coating "DIY" kit, hopefully good ....
 

Artstu

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I've just acquired one of these along with what I assume will be obsolete receivers of a Uniden UST-7007 and a Nokia SAT 1800 IRD.

Any updates on the rebuild of the motor?
 

Channel Hopper

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Rancerote was last on the forum in May (2015)
 

blademedia

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I've just acquired one of these along with what I assume will be obsolete receivers of a Uniden UST-7007 and a Nokia SAT 1800 IRD.

Any updates on the rebuild of the motor?

What issues are you having ? post a few pictures up with a explanation of what's wrong/what you want to do, someone will help you out.
 

Artstu

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What issues are you having ? post a few pictures up with a explanation of what's wrong/what you want to do, someone will help you out.

Thanks. I need to do some reading to see how best to proceed with mating the motorised dish to an up to date receiver.
 

blademedia

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Thanks, yes I'd come across that advice earlier, and very reasonably priced too. So this one Jaeger SuperJack V-Box II

They are all made in China some are better than others, ive not bought one for a few years so cant really advise what one to buy, but that's what you need and some four core wire, someone with a more recent purchase will advise you better.
 

rancero

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Hi guys, after a couple of years are finally back with you cause a job that took me away from this beautiful hobby. Unfortunately my dish is still on the ground and in the meantime I just managed to paint the HH engine with a beautiful red Ferrari. I hope during this summer that I can reassemble everything and share with you my experience.
I also made a modification of the polar mount to accommodate two engines: the "new HH" for moving the dish along the Clarke arch and another one to modify the elevation.

Here some pictures of the restyling of the HH

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