Titanium ASC1 DiSEqC Positioner

B

blademedia

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Hi, anyone using this unit any issues ?, reading reports on old threads regarding mis counting ?, has this issue been resolved ? anyone using the extra unit ASC1 Optical / Hall Effect / Reed Sensor Isolation Adapter, is this rectifying any previous issues ?
 
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scopus

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Think there was a mod to resolve the counting issues, not sure how well it worked. You certainly don't see any dealers selling it in the UK, even Satshop24 in Germany have also stopped selling it.
John has one, he did the mod, but not sure if he was a 100% happy with it though.
 
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blademedia

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Thanks C, they now sell this
ASC1 Optical / Hall Effect / Reed Sensor Isolation Adapter | eBay
dfdfdf.PNG

From what I can make out the above wasn't available a while back when ive read about the counting issue ?

If the controller is used with cheap actuators its going to mis count, that's what cheap actuators do.

Ive paid for the items and there on there way, will do my own test when it arrives and report back, its got to be better than the cheap rubbish that's out there.
 
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Captain Jack

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The added advantage is the addition of skew controller.... If I remember correctly
 
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Thanks C, they now sell this
ASC1 Optical / Hall Effect / Reed Sensor Isolation Adapter | eBay
View attachment 105333

From what I can make out the above wasn't available a while back when ive read about the counting issue ?

If the controller is used with cheap actuators its going to mis count, that's what cheap actuators do.

Ive paid for the items and there on there way, will do my own test when it arrives and report back, its got to be better than the cheap rubbish that's out there.
Been tempted myself to get one in the past, but reports from John always put me off. I think that's why he went for the RC jobby...
Be interesting to how you get on with it....
 
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s-band

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I like the Uniden UST771 but It's not Diseqc. It only does 20 satellites but the counter is fine for manual use in between. I had one from the 80s but bought a couple more on Ebay for £15-25. They usually need the back-up battery replacing but John has service info and I've got the operation manual. You can use the 12V output with an external regulator if you need 5V for an optical or hall sensor.


See Advice Needed - Uniden UST-771 positioner
 
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M

moonbase

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I seem to recall reading somewhere that the counting issue with the ASC-1 unit was only present when it was being used in DisEqC mode, if it was being used as a standalone positioner and not in DisEqC mode it was supposed to be OK. There was a non reversible firmware update issued a while back that may also have addressed some of the problems?

The good thing about the ASC-1 is that it can have the satellite list updated/edited from a *.csv file.


Rgds
 
B

blademedia

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Thanks Guys, I will see how I get on with it and report back, not so bothered about DisEqC mode,

I will be chasing fringe reception and need to do manual fine moves, its only a stop gap for this dish, once ive done the declination modification I will be using the RC unit,

This will move onto another dish, thanks for your input.
 
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moonbase

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...I will be chasing fringe reception and need to do manual fine moves...

Would there be any benefit in changing the magnetic wheel in the actuator to one with more poles, if there is such as thing available?

I think I read somewhere that instead of 4 poles on the wheel there are versions available with more poles (possibly 6)? If a higher pole count magnetic wheel were fitted to the actuator would this give you a slight increase in sensitivity for fine adjustments?


Rgds
 
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Would there be any benefit in changing the magnetic wheel in the actuator to one with more poles, if there is such as thing available?

I think I read somewhere that instead of 4 poles on the wheel there are versions available with more poles (possibly 6)? If a higher pole count magnetic wheel were fitted to the actuator would this give you a slight increase in sensitivity for fine adjustments?


Rgds
Try one out of a 1224, they had more poles, worth a try.
 
aceb

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Would there be any benefit in changing the magnetic wheel in the actuator to one with more poles, if there is such as thing available?

I think I read somewhere that instead of 4 poles on the wheel there are versions available with more poles (possibly 6)? If a higher pole count magnetic wheel were fitted to the actuator would this give you a slight increase in sensitivity for fine adjustments?
Definitely, this is exactly what I did fitting the original mag wheel from a a Superjack into the 36" QARL actuator I bought from Germany. A very worthwhile mod if you can get hold of one.
 
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blademedia

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Its not a modification ive ever done, but I have every confidence that I could add extra magnets to the one I'm using at the moment, I will experiment when time permits.
 
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blademedia

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@John, what's your thoughts on this controller.
 
E

el bandido

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I have not had any problems with the ASC1 tracking the satellites or losing counts on my dish system.

Would like to say the ASC1 is not capable of producing 36 volts at 5 amps unless the power supply is changed or modified.

From Titanium:
Powerful
Designed with the versatility to control and power both LNBFs, LNBs, pass switch commands and generate or regenerate switching voltages, the ASC1 works on virtually any consumer or commercial system. Packed with the lifting power rated to a maximum of 38Vdc at 5amps, the ASC1 will lift any motorized dish. No other consumer motor controller even comes close to the power provided by the ASC1. The F-fitting port simultaneously provides voltage that is user set to 13/18Vdc, reversed 18/13Vdc, fixed 13Vdc or fixed 18Vdc at 450mA. Our proprietary motor control feature ramps in and out the motor speed at the beginning and end of a motor movement. This minimizes wear and tear on your dish mount and frame. The ramp also allows micro adjustments when fine-tuning the dish positioning. No more speeding past the correct motor landing and having to bump the dish back and forth into position.


I could only get about 25 volts dc at 4 amps when the ASC1 power supply was tested for maximum power output.
The big dish actuators are rated for 36 volts at 5 amps of current, and this is probably the reason these numbers were chosen.
36 or 38 Volts at 5 Amps is wishful thinking for a stock ASC1. Thought someone might want to know this. EB
 
John

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@John, what's your thoughts on this controller.



@blademedia , only just spotted this post buddy asking for opinion, but in the back of my mind i'm sure i posted some info relating to my experiences with this contoller ? .... i wonder if i posted it in another thread ?.
 
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el bandido

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I modified my ASC1. Now it is capable of 35.5 volts dc at 5 amps of current draw. The higher dc voltage allows the actuator to move the dish faster. This modification included removing the original transformer, and replacing it with a smaller one. A new, separate dc power supply was installed inside the ASC1 case. Would be glad to share this power supply modification if anyone is interested. I now have something worthy of moving my 3.6 meter commercial dish!
 
John

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I modified my ASC1. Now it is capable of 35.5 volts dc at 5 amps of current draw. The higher dc voltage allows the actuator to move the dish faster. This modification included removing the original transformer, and replacing it with a smaller one. A new, separate dc power supply was installed inside the ASC1 case. Would be glad to share this power supply modification if anyone is interested. I now have something worthy of moving my 3.6 meter commercial dish!

Hi, sharing your modification to the ASC1 with some pictures or additional drawings etc would be great.
 
E

el bandido

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There are two ways that I know of to modify the ASC1 dc power supply that moves or supplies power to the actuator. I assume that anyone trying this would know a bit about electronics, and would have enough sense to remove ac power before working on the inside of the ASC1. These mods are based on 110 volts ac, which is standard for the United States, but the parts used should be available in either110 or 220 volts ac.

We will start with the first mod which is the easiest. This is an external mod, and the power supply used may be purchased from Ebay or any other source for a 36 volt dc supply. The 36 volt dc supply should be rated for 36 volts minimum at 5 amps and should be load tested to verify these specs. I use low wattage automotive lights wired in series for a test load.

For external supply installation, you will need to remove the 4 allen head screws on the front, and the 4 allen head screws on the bottom of the ASC1 that are located under the 4 rubber stops or feet. The ASC1 disassembles a bit unusual, and I find it is best for me to remove the front screws, turn the unit upside down, remove the bottom screws, then separate the case. Your success using this method may vary. The back side of the ASC1 where the actuator connects has slots and will slide out as the case is separated.

The bridge rectifier needs to be located once the case is separated. This part will be located on the main board near the transformer. It will have 4 legs with the letters ac underneath the two middle legs, and a + or - sign on the outer legs. This is the point where the ac electricity is converted to dc, and makes an excellent place to tap into. You may apply dc power, and carefully check the + and - side of the bridge rectifier, verifying that you have about 37 volts dc with no actuator load and with the ASC1 powered on with ac electricity. Ac power on, check and verify dc voltage, check and verify correct dc polarity, then remove ac power. A picture of the bridge rectifier for the dc voltage to the actuator is attached.

Almost all that is left to do now is remove the main board and solder two wires to the bridge rectifier for dc voltage, or use some other method to attach two wires to the bridge rectifier for dc voltage. I soldered to the bottom. I also noticed that the shiny metal plate on which the main board sits was dc grounded. I thought about only soldering one wire to the + side of the rectifier, but decided it was best for me to solder the - side to the rectifier too.

Reassembly of the ASC1 can start after the two wires for dc voltage have been securely connected to the bridge rectifier. I ran my two wires out the side vent and connected them to the external supply as a test. Once you have decided where your new dc wires are going to end up, cut one of the yellow ASC1 secondary transformer wires, secure or tape the cut transformer wire (both sides), and reassemble.

Verify the the new dc power wires are not touching each other, and add ac power to the ASC1 Verify there is no dc voltage on the new wires. Remove ASC1 ac power, install a 5amp fuse between the new dc power supply and the ASC1, reapply ac power, connect actuator and test.

Pictures in link. Internal supply install to follow.
https://mega.nz/#!3wd1RRwS!1t1OnjNchnl80Uo4FW9-54eY4dUelx9MZk_f_b81tvQ
 
RimaNTSS

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Nice explanation " ASC-1 for Dummies" :). Pictures of the process are missing.
 
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