There are two ways that I know of to modify the ASC1 dc power supply that moves or supplies power to the actuator. I assume that anyone trying this would know a bit about electronics, and would have enough sense to remove ac power before working on the inside of the ASC1. These mods are based on 110 volts ac, which is standard for the United States, but the parts used should be available in either110 or 220 volts ac.
We will start with the first mod which is the easiest. This is an external mod, and the power supply used may be purchased from Ebay or any other source for a 36 volt dc supply. The 36 volt dc supply should be rated for 36 volts minimum at 5 amps and should be load tested to verify these specs. I use low wattage automotive lights wired in series for a test load.
For external supply installation, you will need to remove the 4 allen head screws on the front, and the 4 allen head screws on the bottom of the ASC1 that are located under the 4 rubber stops or feet. The ASC1 disassembles a bit unusual, and I find it is best for me to remove the front screws, turn the unit upside down, remove the bottom screws, then separate the case. Your success using this method may vary. The back side of the ASC1 where the actuator connects has slots and will slide out as the case is separated.
The bridge rectifier needs to be located once the case is separated. This part will be located on the main board near the transformer. It will have 4 legs with the letters ac underneath the two middle legs, and a + or - sign on the outer legs. This is the point where the ac electricity is converted to dc, and makes an excellent place to tap into. You may apply dc power, and carefully check the + and - side of the bridge rectifier, verifying that you have about 37 volts dc with no actuator load and with the ASC1 powered on with ac electricity. Ac power on, check and verify dc voltage, check and verify correct dc polarity, then remove ac power. A picture of the bridge rectifier for the dc voltage to the actuator is attached.
Almost all that is left to do now is remove the main board and solder two wires to the bridge rectifier for dc voltage, or use some other method to attach two wires to the bridge rectifier for dc voltage. I soldered to the bottom. I also noticed that the shiny metal plate on which the main board sits was dc grounded. I thought about only soldering one wire to the + side of the rectifier, but decided it was best for me to solder the - side to the rectifier too.
Reassembly of the ASC1 can start after the two wires for dc voltage have been securely connected to the bridge rectifier. I ran my two wires out the side vent and connected them to the external supply as a test. Once you have decided where your new dc wires are going to end up, cut one of the yellow ASC1 secondary transformer wires, secure or tape the cut transformer wire (both sides), and reassemble.
Verify the the new dc power wires are not touching each other, and add ac power to the ASC1 Verify there is no dc voltage on the new wires. Remove ASC1 ac power, install a 5amp fuse between the new dc power supply and the ASC1, reapply ac power, connect actuator and test.
Pictures in link. Internal supply install to follow.
https://mega.nz/#!3wd1RRwS!1t1OnjNchnl80Uo4FW9-54eY4dUelx9MZk_f_b81tvQ