V-box er2

M

mapperuo

Specialist Contributor
My Satellite Setup
2x 1.8m Raven (7e Fixed, 30w-45e)
2x 1.5m Gibby (23.5e / 13e)
2x 1.2m Gibby (10e / 30w - 45e)
3x 1.1m Generics (15w / 0.8w / 28.2e)
My Location
Fife, Scotland
Happy New Year!

Seems the gods have decided my motorised dish will no longer work into 2020 and bit stumped so wouldn't mind some advice!


It's a superjack for a 1.8m Raven, Ive had to replace it once before so I do fear it may be dead again...

gW0L1sg.jpg
 
Basicly, I am getting Er2 when I try move the dish either way, I've checked the cabling and thats all fine. So in the above photo Ive popped a tester on and Im getting a quick spike of -44v or 44v depending on direction out the motor ends, So the relay seems fine?

Could it be an issue with the reed sensor on the motor end and perhaps the V Box is OK?
 
Does the dish move a bit before the E2 error? If it does, then that would indeed suggest a knackered Reed switch.
 
Nah it isn't moving at all
 
I'll have to take a peak but thats what I fear... These motors do not last long :( I seem to only get about 2 years out of them!
 
Those superjacks are pretty pants. 2 years seems about average. That said, it could be that a small service would be all that's needed to get it going again.
 
If it's not the heavy duty thicker type Superjack then it's possible the motor has burnt out, they take some shifting those 1.8 Ravens...
 
I don't see that you have the motor connected to the Vbox, this being the case then the voltage readings you are seeing are OK for an unloaded power supply, and from what I see from the inside it dose not look to be very well regulated.

An Er2 on the display usually means a sensor problem, have you checked the continuity of all wiring from the box to the motor? If so then it could be a bad reed sensor.

Anyone with a schematic?
 
They are a poorly made item the superjacks, as I have found out but repaired for various reasons, water ingress to he motor and the polyurethane collet wearing out which the lead screw or acme screw travels in, i would think the actuator will be at fault not the vbox.
 
If you can disconnect the wormdrive from the gearbox whilst the actuator is still connected to the dish (usually just a single 12/13mm hex bolt) then you may find the back end runs fine on its own.

Watch out for any rusty water that comes out.
 
Thanks for all the advice, Will update once I get it off and looked at, Been heavy rain and wind for a few days now so not even venturing outside!

Always something to fix/adjust with this hobby!
 
One way to check if the Vbox is putting out the correct voltage is to connect it to a load resistor, (or the super jack) however a 25 ohm 50 watt resistor may be hard to come by. (this resistor would give a 1.5 amp load to the Vbox)

So three automotive turn signal lights in series (12 volt load x 3) would give enough of a load to test the Vbox output.
 
All fixed.... Some water had got somewhere it shouldn't! Rewired it with new choc block and sealant.

Thanks all!

GWWNivt.jpg
 
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