What is the best twin cable for a motorised dish?

Loquacious

Loquacious

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Shoreham by Sea - West Sussex - UK
My Satellite Setup
Motor : HD Line DisceqC Motor 50-120 ( apparently a Moteck SG2100A clone)
Dish : Dur- Line Aluminium 75/80cm
LNB : Dur - Line Twin
4. Receiver: Fortec Star HD Passion Plus ( 2010 )
5. WF 100 cable
My Location
Shoreham by Sea
It has probably mentioned here before and some of you in my previous threads have already suggested some types of cable but seemed to me there are lots of brands and I need 30 metres and some prices for the same types are very dear.
Could you give some feedbacks and suggestions as I would like to buy it as soon as possible.
Many Thanks:)
 
jeallen01

jeallen01

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Is this what you are looking for?
Different sizes 10m, 20m, 25m, 50m and 100m in black or white
50 Meter Sat Koaxial Kabel 90dB Twin Mini 2x 4 mm: Amazon.de: Elektronik
That ad says "Aussenmesser 4mm" which means, I think, that it is the small stuff like CT65 - but the OP is (I think) looking for something like Twin CT100 (or possibly even Twin CT125 if that exists?) because he needs 30m runs with minimum signal loss.
Edited: Just checked on CT65 and that has an O/D of 4mm, and so it does seem similar to the stuff on Amazon.de.
 
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A

Archive7

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Well the OP should have specified in this post exactly what he is looking for. No point in speculating
 
jeallen01

jeallen01

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Well the OP should have specified in this post exactly what he is looking for. No point in speculating
I have to agree with you - I did advise him to look for Twin CT100 if he could find it, but he obviously did not include that info in his 1st post here :rolleyes:
 
Loquacious

Loquacious

Member
Messages
75
Location
Shoreham by Sea - West Sussex - UK
My Satellite Setup
Motor : HD Line DisceqC Motor 50-120 ( apparently a Moteck SG2100A clone)
Dish : Dur- Line Aluminium 75/80cm
LNB : Dur - Line Twin
4. Receiver: Fortec Star HD Passion Plus ( 2010 )
5. WF 100 cable
My Location
Shoreham by Sea
Thanks for your replies.
I did not mean to speculate , just making sure I can shop around and compare some indications as you both have done.
Have a good night
 
A

archive10

Guest
It has probably mentioned here before and some of you in my previous threads have already suggested some types of cable but seemed to me there are lots of brands and I need 30 metres and some prices for the same types are very dear.
Could you give some feedbacks and suggestions as I would like to buy it as soon as possible.
Many Thanks:)
what and where do you want it used?

If outside usage, it's better to use PE-sheathed cable (black, shiny, stiffer stuff).
The PVC (white) sheath will crack from UV-exposure, and let moisture in.
Especially if repeatedly bent in a motorised installation.
Dual cable can be simulated by two lengths of single cable tied together with self-amalgamating tape.

Also, the thicker the cable the less loss you will have.
4mm dual-shielded cable as suggested above is inferior to 7mm dual-shielded cable.
For 30m runs I would consider triple-shielded cable. Even better full-copper core, not jut copper-clad steel.

Finally, use proper connectors - compression connectors give a much tighter connection (both RF and water) than screw-on types.
For outside use they are really an insurance against moist and noise ingression.
They come in booth tool-requiring (PPC etc) and finger-only versions (Cablecon).
 
jeallen01

jeallen01

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what and where do you want it used?

If outside usage, it's better to use PE-sheathed cable (black, shiny, stiffer stuff).
The PVC (white) sheath will crack from UV-exposure, and let moisture in.
Especially if repeatedly bent in a motorised installation.
Dual cable can be simulated by two lengths of single cable tied together with self-amalgamating tape.

Also, the thicker the cable the less loss you will have.
4mm dual-shielded cable as suggested above is inferior to 7mm dual-shielded cable.
For 30m runs I would consider triple-shielded cable. Even better full-copper core, not jut copper-clad steel.

Finally, use proper connectors - compression connectors give a much tighter connection (both RF and water) than screw-on types.
For outside use they are really an insurance against moist and noise ingression.
They come in booth tool-requiring (PPC etc) and finger-only versions (Cablecon).
More or less what I said to him in his other thread - apart from the use of triple-shielded cable and compression connectors .
 
A

archive10

Guest
I use this stuff for outside cabling now.
It's 7mm, got PE sheath, 1.1mm copper core, and triple shielding with glued inner foil.
A bit stiff, but worth it in transmission respects.

https://www.av-cables.dk/udendoers-antennekabel/udendoers-antennekabel-coax-7-mm-pris-for-100-meter.html

Note how even here, the blurb says PVC shielding, when further down it indicates PE sheathing.
I checked just to be shure, and it is indeed PE shielding.

I also use PPC connectors http://www.ppc-online.com/ex-series-59-6-plenum-headend-compression-connectors for F-connectors.
They happen to be a Danish brand, and we use them at work, but there are many other sources.
 
jeallen01

jeallen01

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@Loquacious & @st1

TBH, I think the advice on choice of cables being given here is going a little OTT ("Over The Top") for the application that is envisaged as discussed in the original thread - especially in Post #88 - because it involves using a 75/80cm dish to get mainly 30W, 19E & 13E - all of which provide fairly strong signals in the Southern UK.

I'm also wondering if - given the proposed position of the dish fairly low on the wall of the house - whether the cable runs will actually be anything like 30m because I would have thought that 15-20m would be more than enough to run from the dish to the receiver, and signal degradation over that distance won't be excessive for those sats. Should the latter be the case, then a dual run of CT100/WF100 will be fine, and there's not much need to worry about UV damage because most of the cable will be inside the house. Also, compression connectors are a good, but expensive, idea, and normal F connectors should be fine if properly terminated and then wrapped tightly with self-amalgamating tape to keep the moisture out.
 
A

archive10

Guest
TBH, I think the advice on choice of cables being given here is going a little OTT ("Over The Top") for the application that is envisaged as discussed in the original thread - especially in Post #88 - because it involves using a 75/80cm dish to get mainly 30W, 19E & 13E - all of which provide fairly strong signals in the Southern UK.
Well ...
This is an enthusiast's forum.
When asked for advice, I give the enthusiasts answer.
I say buy the proper components, but at the best prices.

I have found so far that botching up stuff will probably work most of the time (I have several installations with PVC sheathed cable and screw-on F-connectors).
But in the past 5 years I have learned the joys of using quality components, as the result can be so much better.

To be clear:
You can pop down to screwfix, buy the cheapest "sat cable" they carry, and put some screw-on connectors.
Then slap the dish on the H2H, and attach this to some bracket.
And you will probably get some kind of signal.
But you may struggle having a swing from 30W to 19E, and still have optimal reception.
Usable reception - yes, probably.
For how long? Depends on how lucky you are.

So ensuring you have the right components and materials, and being thorough in the assembly is the key to good results.

It really boils down to: Is OP looking to put up a rig that will provide many years of continued predictable service, or is it the experimenter/explorer's foray into motorised reception?

One thing I am serious about, though, are the F-connectors.
Through my professional life, I have been shown how important it is to have radio-right connectors and fittings.
With screw-on F-connectors it is very easy to allow spurious frequencies into the waveguide, especially from DECT phones, mobile phones, radios, Microwaves etc.
With compression ones are much easier to obtain a radio-tight connector attachment (but it still have to be done properly!)

So by all means pop down to screw-fix; it will probably work for you.
But if you want it the enthusiast way... well...
 
jeallen01

jeallen01

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@st1

I'm not going to get into an "argument" with you over your last post, But:
- Yes, this an enthusiast's site, but we try to help newbies in the easiest and most "cost-effective" manner, and not push them to make /buy the "ultimate" solutions right from the start of their "satellite adventures"
- And so what I have done is to aim to advise the OP on what is probably the easiest and most "cost-effective" route to achieving his desired "solution" - which is to get 30W, 19E and 13E - in the short term. What he would want to do in the long term is entirely up to him, and , if that means using the cables & connectors that you have mentioned then, by all means, he should "go for it"! :D
PS: For years I have used mainly cheap (but well-sealed!) screw-on F-connectors from ebay (not Screwfix!), and various cables, including some RG6 from right back in the early 1990's (still in use!), but, nowadays, mainly CT/WF100, with the total length from the dishes (notably the TD88 on the 1st Superior Dark Motor) of around 20m on my fairly basic TM5402 M3, and I have little trouble in getting the majority of channels on all the OP's desired sats!
 
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Loquacious

Loquacious

Member
Messages
75
Location
Shoreham by Sea - West Sussex - UK
My Satellite Setup
Motor : HD Line DisceqC Motor 50-120 ( apparently a Moteck SG2100A clone)
Dish : Dur- Line Aluminium 75/80cm
LNB : Dur - Line Twin
4. Receiver: Fortec Star HD Passion Plus ( 2010 )
5. WF 100 cable
My Location
Shoreham by Sea
A

Archive7

Guest
Hello guys.
I am bit stuck on how I will run a twin cable from this LBN; Dur-Line + Ultra - LNB Full HD HDTV 3D - Dur-Line: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics
The motor has in from the LBN and out to the receiver so how can I install a twin cable if there are glued together?
I assume that I should have bought a single LBN?
Any suggestions and help? :-doh
Many thanks.
Which cable do you have now?
Can you attach a photo or send us a link please.
BTW the correct term is LNB
 
jeallen01

jeallen01

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Twin cable is "figure of eight" construction and should easily be split into two separate cables at the receiver and dish ends - at the dish end, one cable goes to the Receiver F-connector on the motor and then another piece of cable goes from the LNB connector on the motor to one F-connector on the LNB, and the other cable goes directly to the other F-connector on the LNB. You must get the connections correct on the motor but it does not matter which F-connector on the LNB is then connected to the LNB connector on the motor.

The cable connected via the motor is the one that (generally) needs to be connected to LNB input 1 on the receiver as that will be the one which will control the dish movement as well as receive signals from the LNB.
 
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Loquacious

Loquacious

Member
Messages
75
Location
Shoreham by Sea - West Sussex - UK
My Satellite Setup
Motor : HD Line DisceqC Motor 50-120 ( apparently a Moteck SG2100A clone)
Dish : Dur- Line Aluminium 75/80cm
LNB : Dur - Line Twin
4. Receiver: Fortec Star HD Passion Plus ( 2010 )
5. WF 100 cable
My Location
Shoreham by Sea
Twin cable is "figure of eight" construction and should easily be split into two separate cables at the receiver and dish ends - at the dish end, one cable goes to the Receiver F-connector on the motor and then another piece of cable goes from the LNB connector on the motor to one F-connector on the LNB, and the other cable goes directly to the other F-connector on the LNB. You must get the connections correct on the motor but it does not matter which F-connector on the LNB is then connected to the LNB connector on the motor.

The cable connected via the motor is the one that (generally) needs to be connected to LNB input 1 on the receiver as that will be the one which will control the dish movement as well as receive signals from the LNB.
Thanks for the information.
Could you please show me a picture on how to install this ?
Otherwise, tell me where can I find a manual for this kind of explain. :-doh
Thanks
 
M

Mickha

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It's really not that difficult, once you look at the motor.
The Motor will have 2 connectors, LNB, and Receiver, you simply run a small cable, from one of the LNB outputs, to the Motor LNB, in, connection, then run a cable from the Motors receiver output, to one of your receivers tuners.
The second cable runs from the LNB's second output, direct to your receiver.
 
Loquacious

Loquacious

Member
Messages
75
Location
Shoreham by Sea - West Sussex - UK
My Satellite Setup
Motor : HD Line DisceqC Motor 50-120 ( apparently a Moteck SG2100A clone)
Dish : Dur- Line Aluminium 75/80cm
LNB : Dur - Line Twin
4. Receiver: Fortec Star HD Passion Plus ( 2010 )
5. WF 100 cable
My Location
Shoreham by Sea
Has anybody have any comments on this cable:
Smedz 50 m WF100 Aerial and Satellite Coaxial

Thanks.
 
jeallen01

jeallen01

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Has anybody have any comments on this cable:
Smedz 50 m WF100 Aerial and Satellite Coaxial
Thanks.
Without a link to the product, I can't comment as I have never heard of "Smedz", but AFAIK "WF100" is a Webro product and so that is what a retailer may be selling.

As I said before, with few exceptions, WF100 would almost certainly be the best for your application - and Webro WF100 is what I would recommend.
 
Channel Hopper

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Never heard of them.

There was a thread on here about suspect cables that once stripped were found to be made of recycled materials, including toothpaste tubing and chewing gum wrappers.

Make sure you have a company address and a returns policy in writing before ordering/paying anything
 
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