where to buy new dish and T&K brackets ASAP . more difficult that i thought!

T

techmob

Regular Member
My Satellite Setup
80 cm dish, superjack dg120, technomate 1500ci+
My Location
north wales
Hi guys

i am after 18" T&K brackets, must be galvanised and good quality (finding that diffuclt to find)

Also i would prefer to be able to buy the dish and brackets at the same place, possibly even some 10mm rawlbolts i have read lots about on here.

i am after a gibertini 1m dish (unless i should go for another?) as they seem to be a very good dish.

i am off work on Thursday so ideally would like to get it ordered ASAP ready from while i am off.

I would buy off the sponsors here but i don't think they have what i need.

can anyone point me in the right direction. i want good quality goods as i have bought some T&K brackets locally, they said they were galvanised, turns out they were not so i returned the,

thanks
 
Ian at southern satellite a forum sponsor could sort you out a package dish, motor and lnb etc
 
i have managed to find a single K bracket which i will use with my existing K bracket.

i only need a dish and some rawlbolts - what size do people use. is it the M10 X10mm?

thanks
 
ebay Item number: 280500648265

are these the right bolts to get? [h=1]M8 RAWL SHIELD ANCHOR LOOSE HEX BOLT 8MM X 60MM[/h]


Link to auction site removed, please only post the item Number as shown - [Admin]
 
M8's or M10's are okay. Fixings will depend on the material your drilling into.
 
And you will require a supply of matchsticks to wedge the sleeves (if using plastic) to prevent them slipping/turning as you tighten up the bolts.
 
i would be drilling in to pebble dash/brick

are M8's what you guys use or should i just go for M10s as there is very little difference in price. i am not sure on what size the other part of the bolt should be for example 8mm x 60mm. (length?)

@Tivu - sorry i don't understand what you mean. Are you talking about the sleeve of the bolts? wouldn't the sleeves be metal?

thanks
 
techmob said:
i would be drilling in to pebble dash/brick

are M8's what you guys use or should i just go for M10s as there is very little difference in price. i am not sure on what size the other part of the bolt should be for example 8mm x 60mm. (length?)
Click to expand...

Yes, 60mm will be the anchor length. Fischer for example also give the 'fixture thickness' size, ie M8 x 60mm x 10mm.

Why not get yourself a handful of each. Personally mainly use galvanised FAZ II 10/10 Through anchors for heavy duty fixing.
 
currently with my T and K bracket (which i took my dish and motor off) i have fixed with a plastic plug and 10mm bolt. after doing some reading here that seems to be a NO NO. That is why i am now going for the M8 or M10 anchor bolts as i have read on this site they are better.

so anything that is 60mm or bigger is the way to go?
 
techmob said:
@Tivu - sorry i don't understand what you mean. Are you talking about the sleeve of the bolts? wouldn't the sleeves be metal?
Click to expand...



Depends what you end up using. I use 10mm Coach Screws with Nylon Plugs.
 
Tivù said:
Depends what you end up using. I use 10mm Coach Screws with Nylon Plugs.
Click to expand...

that is what i have currently but have read it is not recommended or at least not as strong as the anchor bolts.
 
True enough, but it doesn't stop some of us!

Never had an issue with any type of bracket (including T &K for mounting motor and TD110) and my house is fabricated in engineering brick.

Whatever fixings you use requires some care in drilling, fitting and tightening, to prevent eg cracking of bricks.
 
Don't use coach screws & nylons for a 100cm on a TK. Go for the anchor fixings [as above].
 
i will be drilling through pebble dash so no idea where the good part of the brick is.

i will get some anchors as i have opportunity to do it now, so i will get some anchors in. Still undecided on the length.

going to use two K brackets and i am going to take care fitting these this time as you may of saw on my superjack dg 120 topic things didn't go to plan.

so i am probably best off drilling a new set of holes for the anchors and filling the old.


Tivù said:
True enough, but it doesn't stop some of us!

Never had an issue with any type of bracket (including T &K) and my house is fabricated in engineering brick.

Whatever fixings you use requires some care in drilling, fitting and tightening, to prevent eg cracking of bricks.
Click to expand...
 
Take advice from an installer; do it right in the first place and fit anchor fixings ;)

70mm anchor length will be fine.

These are what I use for soild material but also use shield and sleeve anchors.
_http://www.fischer.co.uk/PortalData/18/Resources/fixing_systems/salesinformation/_documents/02steel/03.pdf
 
techmob said:
i will be drilling through pebble dash so no idea where the good part of the brick is.

i will get some anchors as i have opportunity to do it now, so i will get some anchors in. Still undecided on the length.

going to use two K brackets and i am going to take care fitting these this time as you may of saw on my superjack dg 120 topic things didn't go to plan.

so i am probably best off drilling a new set of holes for the anchors and filling the old.
Click to expand...


Sounds like a good plan - but be wary of prescriptive solutions.

One issue to be wary of is that whatever fixings you use, as you know, you need to avoid mortar courses for a significant load bearing assembly: Might it be possible to chip small patches away to help identify where the good brick is - or is that likely to be a fool's errand ? Some pebbledash facings might be loose/brittle and others like rock! Only you can establish which.
 
which do you think is better out of these two

Ebay Item number 250624924684
Ebay Item number 280500645115

both seem cheap enough

thanks
 
i might be able to tell from my original holes, if i can pull the plug out to see if it is in brick... i would have to be very unlucky to not hit brick, but i suppose it happens

Tivù said:
Sounds like a good plan - but be wary of prescriptive solutions.

One issue to be wary of is that whatever fixings you use, as you know, you need to avoid mortar courses for a significant load bearing assembly: Might it be possible to chip small patches away to help identify where the good brick is - or is that likely to be a fool's errand ? Some pebbledash facings might be loose/brittle and others like rock! Only you can establish which.
Click to expand...
 
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