Captain Jack
Burnt out human
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2006
- Messages
- 11,810
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- My Location
- North Somerset
What's really needed... are pictures!
If you make main pole adjustable than one ring on the sleeve is enough.The other thing that worries me a bit is that it only has one ring of fixing bolts on the sleeve. Id prefer some top & bottom.
Some of the original fixings were not stainless so I have replaced them all. One of the original galvanised coach bolts, securing the dish face, had been substituted by something a bit smaller. It was quite hard to source 1/2” SS coach bolts so I got a set of 12mm.What's really needed... are pictures!
All these jacks are crap - sorry, but there's no other way of putting it. A bunch of us here imported some Venture ones from the States - these are miles and miles ahead anything that you can buy in Europe. Pricey but worth it.
I presumes CJ meant the Super*Jack ones.Are you saying LINAK actuators are crap ?
Agree with CJ here. When going from one end of the arc to the other the Super Jack is not up to the job, loses counts then you start having to re-sync the darn thing, their was play in mine too. The Venture is in a different league altogether, well worth the extra cost.The Linak seemed OK but I've only seen the one used for inclination and I am not sure whether it's even possible to use one for azimuth. For inclination/declination, I am happy even with a crappy Super*Jack - it's a much easier job moving a couple of inches at most rather than the full breadth of the arc.
I ordered a 24" HD Superjack from SSS and received something that looks like a Superjack but has "Stronger" branding. Has anyone else seen this branding? It is certainly a heavy lump and says it's "3D" and "Full HD" but will it do 4k/UHD?
View attachment 97665...
Much easier. However, the bolt is too long to be able to remove since the bolt securing the sliding part is welded to it so I can not remove the slider assembly and bolt. Hence having to remove nut B - unless I've missed something? The nuts must have been welded after the thing was assembled.Ok read further up would not drilling the thread out be an option rather than removing nut ?
Nut at point A is welded to the bolt. When the bolt is unscrewed the bolt of which the head can be seen welded to the right angle at the left of point A hits the end of the slot at point C before the slide can be removed. There is still about 25mm of thread to the right of nut B. I want the bolt to be able to move freely through point B as the position will be set by an actuator fixed to point D. I suppose I could cut the whole lot apart but I was looking for the minimum mechanical work as it not my strength.@s-band Wait a minute, I do not understand something.....
Long bolt is not stuck in nut at point B! You are saying you can not remove long bolt?! But why? If you untighten nut at point A, then long bolt can not be removed left? What is exact problem, can you explain?
I did not see such a solutions before! Usually nut at point A is with nylon inside so it does not move freely. Seems that somebody welded this nut without thinking. In that case you can cut piece of the bolt along the green line.Nut at point A is welded to the bolt.