Motek H2H and Gibertini 1.5 install.

Just had a message from Amazon, my cable/flex should be here tomorrow :)

Still got a couple more jobs to do, including that dent and running some more coax into the garage.

Still things are progressing........:)
 
Chris1979 said:
that dent
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Do you have plan how to do that? Simple grinding it off not the best option BTW. I would say, dent is tiny, leave it as it is. Anyway, even if you remove it, everybody will still know the dent was there :-rofl2.
 
RimaNTSS said:
Do you have plan how to do that? Simple grinding it off not the best option BTW. I would say, dent is tiny, leave it as it is. Anyway, even if you remove it, everybody will still know the dent was there :-rofl2.
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It's a bolt that's causing the problem, I should have got a slightly shorter one.

Still the hacksaw will take a few mm's off the bolt, and then I need to get a rubber mallet to tap the dent back. :D
 
Chris1979 said:
It's a bolt that's causing the problem, I should have got a slightly shorter one.

Still the hacksaw will take a few mm's off the bolt, and then I need to get a rubber mallet to tap the dent back. :D
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.. Again, tell me to do one if you wish but i would agree with Rimants.
Seeing as the reflector surface is accurate to a +/- mm or less, the dink will only be destructive to the actual dink. Applying a rubber mallet could damage a larger area of surface accuracy. I would leave the dink as is
 
It's still got the bolt pressing on the dish face at the moment shouldn't I at least cut the bolt?

Perhaps best to leave the dish face?
 
Managed to cut the offending bolts about 5 mm shorter.

Below uncut,
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Below Cut 5mm or so off

IMG_1883.webp

Also managed to push the dent back out

IMG_1885.webp

Still got a few more jobs to do, no sign of the cable I ordered.
 
Chris! When you cut the bolt always do some sandpapering with angle grinder, so, next time you touch the place of cut you will not be hurt. And also sometimes it can be difficult to screw the nut on such an bolt-end. I just made a cut of M10 bolt to take a picture. You see the difference between what is yellow and green circled. Typing this message take more time than do the metal work. ;)
 

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RimaNTSS said:
Chris! When you cut the bolt always do some sandpapering with angle grinder, so, next time you touch the place of cut you will not be hurt. And also sometimes it can be difficult to screw the nut on such an bolt-end. I just made a cut of M10 bolt to take a picture. You see the difference between what is yellow and green circled. Typing this message take more time than do the metal work. ;)
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I did file the end of the bolt. When I go in to town again I will see if I can get some bolts the right size this time.
 
Are those bolts galvanized? When you cut galvanized bolt and leave the cut place open it will start to rust very soon. Look for bolt from normal material..... you know :rolleyes:
 
RimaNTSS said:
Are those bolts galvanized? When you cut galvanized bolt and leave the cut place open it will start to rust very soon. Look for bolt from normal material..... you know :rolleyes:
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No, just standard wilkinson's pic n mix hardware.
 
If it is question of just couple of bolts and no time pressure let me know size of them. So you could have them for a price of shipping.
 
RimaNTSS said:
If it is question of just couple of bolts and no time pressure let me know size of them. So you could have them for a price of shipping.
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Thanks :) I will have to get back to you on the size of bolts I need.

Looks like I need 45mm m8 x 4
 
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RimaNTSS said:
Do not have 45mm, but I suspect that 35mm or even 30mm will also be fine.
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I bought 40mm bolts to start with and they just fitted, but I couldn't do up the nuts :eek: no thread left.

I will see if I have another one so I can get a more accurate measurement.
 
The gap between the motor adapter plate and dish back plate is 30mm

IMG_1902.webp

The face plate/adapter plate looks to be about 4-5mm (guess)
 
What about such a 45mm bolts?
 

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