Just Sharing This My Channel Master 1.8 project.

Manikm909 said:
...how badly could alignment been off when getting 20db on 28.2 on some tps and 19db on some 30w tp's..
Click to expand...


I get those signal levels from 28.2E using a 1.2m dish and also from a 2.0m dish.
The tuners in the receivers are bitched up when it comes to coping with massive signals like that. They are no reflection on how accurately your dish is tracking an arc.

Use the weaker signals per satellite, it is a more accurate test.


Alternatively, there are three Jaeger 1224 H-H motors for sale on the forum at £180 each, real bargains at that price.
You could buy one of those, scrap the polar mount and actuators and go for a 36 volt H-H solution.
I have a couple of spare pre-drilled steel panzer plates that are used to reinforce a Jaeger 1224 into a "beefed up" version that should cope with a 1.8m CM dish
 
Last edited:
moonbase said:
I get those signal levels from 28.2E using a 1.2m dish and also from a 2.0m dish.
The tuners in the receivers are bitched up when it comes to coping with massive signals like that. They are no reflection on how accurately your dish is tracking an arc.

Use the weaker signals per satellite, it is a more accurate test.
Click to expand...
Big tea towel time.
 
moonbase said:
I get those signal levels from 28.2E using a 1.2m dish and also from a 2.0m dish.
The tuners in the receivers are bitched up when it comes to coping with massive signals like that. They are no reflection on how accurately your dish is tracking an arc.

Use the weaker signals per satellite, it is a more accurate test.


Alternatively, there are three Jaeger 1224 H-H motors for sale on the forum at £180 each, real bargains at that price.
You could buy one of those, scrap the polar mount and actuators and go for a 36 volt H-H solution.
I have a couple of spare pre-drilled steel panzer plates that are used to reinforce a Jaeger 1224 into a "beefed up" version that should cope with a 1.8m CM dish
Click to expand...
any pictures of the spare pre-drilled steel panzer plates moonbase.
 
moonbase said:
Alternatively, there are three Jaeger 1224 H-H motors for sale on the forum at £180 each, real bargains at that price.
You could buy one of those, scrap the polar mount and actuators and go for a 36 volt H-H solution.
I have a couple of spare pre-drilled steel panzer plates that are used to reinforce a Jaeger 1224 into a "beefed up" version that should cope with a 1.8m CM dish
Click to expand...
He still has to deal with those wacky pole
 
Trust said:
He still has to deal with those wacky pole
Click to expand...

That is true.

If the pole or mounting head unit is not vertical in the East/West plane and immobilised, whatever type of motorisation is used it will not track an accurate arc.
 
Last edited:
wium78 said:
In general with one,s latitude correct and the pole 100% vertical, is the only adjustment left , the dish angle.
Click to expand...

wium78 said:
Can someone please comment on my posting.
Click to expand...

So the question is, after setting the pole plumb and setting the axis elevation, is the only thing to set the dish declination (or elevation, as its counterpart)?

I would say no: you'd have to align your zero to due south/ due north (in your case).
And after that do the motorsetup finetuning procedure at several satellites on the arc, that is described in several manuals.


When you have more questions about your motor setup, maybe you can continue them in your own thread, here?

Polar Mount settings

Being in South Africa my latitude is 35 and declination 5 degrees.Can someone please confirm that my centre dish angle will be about 60 degrees.
satellites.co.uk satellites.co.uk

Greetz,
A33
 
Noted with thanks.
I have two tracking dishes and from my experience found that the dish angle is critical as a last resort.
 
butchyboy said:
any pictures of the spare pre-drilled steel panzer plates moonbase.
Click to expand...

Apologies for any confusion, I should have been clearer in my reply to the O/P. My offer of a panzer plate was only to "Manikm909" as he lives quite close to me and is currently having a few niggles with his polar mount install. The spare panzer plates I have are not for sale. My offer to the O/P was to help him out if he decided to go down the Jaeger 1224 H-H motor route with his 1.8m CM dish.

For those who have contacted me by PM and in this topic asking for a picture, please find a couple of pictures attached below that I found stored on a PC. The picture showing the plate installed in the Jaeger 1224 was not taken by me, I think I may have downloaded it from this forum some time ago or perhaps been sent it by someone?

.
Panzer Plate.jpg Panzer Plate (picture).jpg
 
Last edited:
Very good. Can't you measure the thickness of the plate? Thanks..
 
danny10 said:
Very good. Can't you measure the thickness of the plate? Thanks..
Click to expand...

The plates I had made are 8mm thick mild steel. I think 6mm would also be OK?

There are other topics on the forum with more details about these plates for a Jaeger 1224.
A quick search brought up the link below. However, there are also other topics covering these plates should anyone wish to look them up?

Jaeger 1224 restoration/modification

Hi Rimant, Any updates? I saw an interesting thread here (in Russian) where someone also reenforced their 1224 motor. Quite simple - even something I could do! Some pictures from there:
www.satellites.co.uk www.satellites.co.uk
 
Last edited:
ive had word i should receive my jack tomorrow! happy days

@moonbase - thanks for the offer - i dont want to spend any more money unless i can help it, im determined to get the polar mount setup working
 
I have same motor but without that plates, do I really need them?
 
omg the 24" is a beast! :)
to prolong the life, should i grease it up?

@moonbase - its lnb, feed to hold it, a collar thing, and a hooded scaler ring - i dont get how it goes together, but i'll work it out.
do i need a plate? is it not internal? seems to be a contained unit.

not sure to mount it on left or right, as i will be dabbling in cband on west side - probably not so much going on with east (can get all that on 1.2m) - so probably mount on west when closed.
 
Last edited:
Manikm909 said:
omg the 24" is a beast! :)
to prolong the life, should i grease it up?

@moonbase - its lnb, feed to hold it, a collar thing, and a hooded scaler ring - i dont get how it goes together, but i'll work it out.
do i need a plate? is it not internal? seems to be a contained unit.

not sure to mount it on left or right, as i will be dabbling in cband on west side - probably not so much going on with east (can get all that on 1.2m) - so probably mount on west when closed.
Click to expand...


If you look down inside the barrel of the LNB is there a dielectric plate in there? If there is a plastic cap on the end of the LNBF take it off and have a look inside.
What make of LNBF is it, pictures would be useful. The Titanium Satellite models of C-Band LNBF's usually have the dielectric plate in the box in a plastic bag.

You do not need a dielectric plate if you are only going to use C-Band for reception of linear polarised frequencies such as 38.0E, 46.0E, 68.5E and 55.5W
If you are going to try for reception of C-Band on circularly polarised frequencies you need a dielectric plate unless you shove the LNBF into a polo pipe.
 
Back
Top