M10 Sleeve Anchor VS M10 Throughbolt VS Resin For brick

[scopus]

Yes that's my thought exactly, but my bricks have been drilled all the way through so no idea how to stop it just pouring in the cavity.

I take it the cavity you refer to is between the inner and outer wall? The sleeve just bridging the cavity would be ideal, but probably very fiddly to execute.

 

[Channel Hopper]

What do you mean 'the bricks were much shorter than I thought'

Are they decorative 'half bricks', if so they wouldn't have frogs in them .

I hope its not a veneer wall you are driling into.

 

[RustySpoons]

What do you mean 'the bricks were much shorter than I thought'
Are they decorative 'half bricks', if so they wouldn't have frogs in them .

I hope its not a veneer wall you are driling into.

No they are full bricks not decorative half bricks, I just went too far with the SDS on the holes, you can see on the corner the thickness of these bricks.

I checked with some sites such as Fischer etc and they state you can use these mesh sleeves if you have a void and to stop it running in to the cavity.
I did 2 bolts initially, let it set and then put the bracket on as a test fit, then made sure the other 2 were lined up and put the mortar and threads in. It will be all perfectly plumb and hopefully tomorrow can get the dish on.

This resin mortar stuff is incredible, I used it to fill in some holes etc on my brickwork as well.

 

[Channel Hopper]

Those mount holes do not look good with the distances between the brick courses and overall brick lengths , no wonder you had difficulty with finding something solid.

Is the dish going to be exposed to abnormal/buffeting winds on the corner ?

 

[RustySpoons]

Those mount holes do not look good with the distances between the brick courses, no wonder you had difficulty with finding something solid.

Is the dish going to be exposed to abnormal/buffeting winds on the corner ?

No it doesn't get very windy here, it's quite sheltered to be fair.

 

[Channel Hopper]

Good. I would still put a load of adhesive under the main base before tightening up the nuts, just to give everything the best chance of staying put.

 

[jeallen01]

Ref Post #60, might you drill the holes oversize (say 2-3mm) push a small amount resin putty, as opposed to liquid resin, to the back of the holes, let that set so that the hole is now "blind"?

Then carefully drill the correct size for the fixing bolt - not the overall fixing - in the middle of the now-set putty, coat the fixing with the resin, slide that into the hole in the brick so the fixing bolt goes through the hole in the putty gently, and then tighten the fixing bolt so that should push any excess resin out of the brick out on the exterior surface, and not into the wall cavity.

OTOH , I think this would work better and easier if you use the sort of fixing where you screw an external nut onto the exposed thread of the fixing stud (can't remember what that's called).

Does that give you any ideas?

 

[RustySpoons]

Good. I would still put a load of adhesive under the main base before tightening up the nuts, just to give everything the best chance of staying put.

I'll swing on it tomorrow, yeah good idea about adhesive, I got some left and a spare nozzle.

 

[Channel Hopper]

P40 does so much more than car panel repairs. By using about half the catalyst you push into non-blind holes to clear dust and prepare, then coat the bolt before inserting, lastly the back of the mount, superb on porous London yellows. A week later nothing will shift it.

 

[Channel Hopper]

I'll swing on it tomorrow, yeah good idea about adhesive, I got some left and a spare nozzle.

Since you confirmed earlier the dealer won't take it back, grind off part of the zinc coating, nice deep scratches, then you know it will bond fully with the brickwork and mortar.

 

[jeallen01]

Another thought: if you could drill a hole right through the inner plasterboard wall (so that you know where the fixing has come through), and then enlarge the hole in the plasterboard enough so that you could fit a nut and large washer to the end of the fixing bolt/stud.

Then tighten the exterior bolt head/nut on the stud so that the brick is clamped between the external bolt head/nut and the washer on the inner surface of the brick. Means refinishing the internal plasterboard to fill the holes, but you also just hang a pretty picture over them

 

[RustySpoons]

Since you confirmed earlier the dealer won't take it back, grind off part of the zinc coating, nice deep scratches, then you know it will bond fully with the brickwork and mortar.

Sounds like a plan

My 6m ally scaffold pole at the bottom of the garden is attached to my concrete fence post with a few coach screws and M6 bolts lol, it has a Diamond X300 on top and 200ft of wire in an inverted L, it's down at the moment for maintenance, think I might guy it this year

 

[RustySpoons]

@Channel Hopper

 

[Channel Hopper]

it's down at the moment for maintenance, think I might guy it this year

Join the club. I have some serious lopping ahead to retrieve some straight line microwave reception and shortwave aerials back in operation. Good four seasons for ducks though.

 

[jeallen01]

Totally different direction then! - so why not clamp a steel pole to that mast and put the dish on that?
OTOH, I can see that those trees are a problem!

 

[RustySpoons]

Join the club. I have some serious lopping ahead to retrieve some straight line microwave reception and shortwave aerials back in operation. Good four seasons for ducks though.

Is any of that ATV/DATV?

 

[RustySpoons]

Totally different direction then! - so why not clamp a steel pole to that mast and put the dish on that?
OTOH, I can see that those trees are a problem!

Those trees are fine, they aren't as close as they appear, the arc sweeps over the top of them.
Because the pole wobbles LOL it's no good for a sat dish , also it's going on a rotator this year with a Magloop and some Yagi's

 

[Channel Hopper]

Is any of that ATV/DATV?

Not here, only satellite and the older metre stuff with the Icom and FT101

 

[RustySpoons]

Not here, only satellite and the older metre stuff with the Icom and FT101

Love the FT101, great radio!

 

[jeallen01]

If you bolted a steel pole to the bottom of the ally pole then you would create a parallelogram structure which would be MUCH stiffer (at least for the lowest proportion) than either of the two on their own - especially if the steel one was firmly bedded in concrete in the soil.