New Lnb changer

Trust1 said:
For the CM 1.8m I use a Maxplus 2100 and for the FIBO 120 a OPENBOX F-500 (control it by hand with the front Up/DOWN buttons )
Made a diseqc-remote interface to automaticly control the changer .
The loop-trough of my Clarke-Tech 5000 (DrHD F16) is able to switch a GT-DS81 diseqc 1.1 switch .
Connected the 8 out-ports to small 12 v relays .
Checked out the button configuration of a Maxplus 2100 (second) remote and let those relays "push the button" .
The Maxplus is connected to the screen of a portable DVD player (small , and cheap on the second hand market)
Easy to make setting corrections .
Click to expand...

Trust1 said:
I noticed the IR led of the diseqc-remote keeps blinking , thats no problem with switching but I think the remote battery wont last long .
Have to make a one-shot circuit for that .
Click to expand...


Nice way to control diseqc 1.2 with diseqc 1.1 commands, with existing equipment...! :)

How do you plan to make the one-shot circuit?

Greetz,
A33
 
a33 said:
Nice way to control diseqc 1.2 with diseqc 1.1 commands, with existing equipment...! :)

How do you plan to make the one-shot circuit?

Greetz,
A33
Click to expand...
Thanks , but not everything was existing , had to make that 8 relais interface .
I thought I have to make a oneshot circuit with a NE555 triggered and in-line with the loop-through connector from the F16 .
But the power (13/18v) on that line does not interrrupt at changing port selection .
So I suppose I have to make 8 of them for the out ports of that 8/1 switch .
To go easy for the moment I gonna use the small Omron PLC instead of the 8 relais interface by using the DIFUP function .
Or do You have a simple electronic solution ?
 
Trust1 said:
Thanks , but not everything was existing , had to make that 8 relais interface .
...
Or do You have a simple electronic solution ?
Click to expand...

Well, I guessed you had the 8 relais also lying around...... :). No real problem for you to put them together I would think? ;)

No, I don't have a simple solution.
I first thought: do you really need the relais, to separate the circuits? Or can you switch the remote with the voltage and current of the receiver-loopthrough? I guess pushing a button of a remote sends a voltage/ small current to the chip of the remote.

But then, that could be leading 13 or 18 volts to a 3 to 5 volt-max? chip in the remote; which means danger.
I thought: Can't you simply use a capacitor of (say) 1uF (or 10uF?) and a resistor and maybe a protecting zener; to let curent through, till capacitor is full (and extra resistor, to let it slowly discharge)? Could work, but I don't know what value resistor you would need, not to blow up the chip of the remote.

Another safer option would be to open up the diseqc switch, as the regulator IC of that works on 5 volts; so the 8 outputs of that (leading to the switching transistors inside the diseqc switch) would all be below 5 volts.

Other line of thought: I remember something about 'mono-stable flipflops' and 'bi-stable flipflops' in logic IC's. Then you would have logic/digital switching.

Or just try the capacitor-solution in your existing interface? I haven't though about how to connect the discharging resistor in your remote, though.

But, these are just lines of thought. And I'm no expert.
But watching interesting DIY-projects like yours make my thoughts wandering a bit, too... :)
Just thought-wandering is nice; I leave the trying and sweating to others..... ;)

greetz,
a33
 
@a33
I bought 10 relays (and some more stuff) @ Landelijke Radiomarkt Rosmalen , try to go overthere every year .
Its a international market , seen cars from France , Germany , Belgium and GB , even Denmark .
A lot of militairy WW 2 equipment ( not my kind of thing )

To the remote leading 8 wires .
to "push"
button 1 , the red and white must be closed
button 2 , the red and green must be closed
button 3 , the yellow and green must be closed
button 4 , the yellow and grey must be closed
button 5 , the yellow and black must be closed
button 6 , the yellow and orange must be closed
button 7, the blue and grey must be closed
button 8 , the blue and green must be closed
button 9 , the blue and orange must be closed
As you can see not so easy to do with flipflops or so .
 
Ah! I knew some remotes do it that way, but I counted your wires, and thought maybe in this case (exactly 9 wires for 8 switching possibilities) it was different...
Alas, I don't know anything further on remote control ICs.

Remains the option of inserting a capacitor on the primary side of the relais maybe? Or am I daydreaming? Have you ever tried/tested such a thing?

Edit: Or a flipflop on the primary side?

Greetz,
A33
 
Hello everybody,

Some pictures of my new LNB Changer with motor at the back and not at the front, the reception is perfect, everything works fine, missing for now 1 or 2 Av-COMM polarizer with servo motor.

Thank's Trust1 and his golden hands, you help me by answering all my questions for the problems with the old and new LNB Changer for my Laminas dish AS1800. I do not forget to tell the lnb twin GI-212E (Ku band), "probably one of the best".

dscn0600_imagesia-com_1aypb.webp


dscn0602_imagesia-com_1aypf.webp


Rgds

Cardiff


Admin edit - two dead image libnks removed & pics uploaded to our server.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
cardiff said:
Hello everybody,

Some pictures of my new LNB Changer with motor at the back and not at the front, the reception is perfect, everything works fine, missing for now 1 or 2 Av-COMM polarizer with servo motor.

Thank's Trust1 and his golden hands, you help me by answering all my questions for the problems with the old and new LNB Changer for my Laminas dish AS1800. I do not forget to tell the lnb twin GI-212E (Ku band), "probably one of the best".






Rgds

Cardiff
Click to expand...





... Very nice, the onions are looking good as well
 
Trust1 said:
This even bring more questions , they just took the drawing made by the parabola calculation and wright down : point G is 141 mm higher .
By that all other data exept H-E should change.....
Point X is importent to me .
Is point H the middle of the dish or the deepest point ? (or both ?)
Sorry guys , but i hoped for a detail drawing with also the position of the side-arm holes in the dish since I've got 3 different data from 3 different members .

All parts for 2 changers are ready , exept the final side plates to attach the motor to the beam .
Packing stuff is also in the house .
View attachment 93381
Click to expand...
I read the this thread completly.
My dish is 1970 mm high, with a 15 mm wide edge, also 1940 mm .... 1935 should be ok.

@Milamber:
You are right, from the middle of the LNB-clamp (point A) to point B' thats not 1364,6mm. 1324mm said my Laser today, 1338 mm my measuring tape.

The value of F-G (1233 mm) in the first drawing from Laminas is definitiv wrong; I think ~1330-50.
With the old value the focal point lies 5cm under the lower idsh bolts
 
femi said:
I read the this thread completly.
My dish is 1970 mm high, with a 15 mm wide edge, also 1940 mm .... 1935 should be ok.

@Milamber:
You are right, from the middle of the LNB-clamp (point A) to point B' thats not 1364,6mm. 1324mm said my Laser today, 1338 mm my measuring tape.

The value of F-G (1233 mm) in the first drawing from Laminas is definitiv wrong; I think ~1330-50.
With the old value the focal point lies 5cm under the lower idsh bolts
Click to expand...
Hi Femi, and welcome, albeit a tad late!
Nice to know that someone else can read a tape measure the same as me!
 
greeting
one question
I'm new in the world of satellites
These days I came to the laminas AS1800 antenna + polar maunt so I'm interested in giving this system that more LNBs (meaning the kit that would fit me for my antenna has somewhere to buy)
thank you
 

Attachments

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cardiff said:
Hello everybody,

Some pictures of my new LNB Changer with motor at the back and not at the front, the reception is perfect, everything works fine, missing for now 1 or 2 Av-COMM polarizer with servo motor.

Thank's Trust1 and his golden hands, you help me by answering all my questions for the problems with the old and new LNB Changer for my Laminas dish AS1800. I do not forget to tell the lnb twin GI-212E (Ku band), "probably one of the best".


Rgds

Cardiff
Click to expand...

greeting
Is there where to buy the whole kit naturally without the LNB
I am a customer
THANK YOU
 
Last edited by a moderator:
What is the use of two different C Band LNBF and KU band LNBF
 
Feedsat_DXer said:
Later this year (maybe during summer holidays) I will installed the CM180 with the LNB chnager by the TBS6983 but I don't think there will be any problem or surprise.
Click to expand...
6903 is the newest twin card.
I'm using the 6908 with four inputs. Ican recommend this card, faster than my older 6925.
 
padmathilaka said:
What is the use of two different C Band LNBF and KU band LNBF
Click to expand...
I see only one Ku-LNB, the Combi Ka/Ku isn't very good to receive Ku-Signals.
C-Band maybe one optimized for linear the other for circular signals.
.. but only the owner can tell you the true use.
 
crodado said:
greeting
Is there where to buy the whole kit naturally without the LNB
I am a customer
THANK YOU
Click to expand...

Most of this sort of kit is home built. If you have the required engineering skills go for it - and let us know how you get on!
 
Thanks Gentlemen, I had same, got some more
 
After many months, the LNB Changer is now installed (I was a bit lazy til now....), everything is working well.


web1.webp

web2.webp

PS: The Laminas' LNB Changer has been removed instantly, the antenna is too "light" from my point of view and signal is not stable during wind conditions (even with low speed wind).
 
a6777.gif


He is very heavy on his nose (Jiminy Cricket).
Le pesa mucho la nariz (Pepito Grillo).

img_a13733.jpg
:-doh
 
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